Wiring/Control Strategy
If you have read my recent posts, you know I had my bike rewired at Lucky 7. They switched out a bad Evo X for an EX4 Euphoria. In the process, i lost my DSR1 due to consistent errors. So now I have a system that is actually sounding really great, with a few slight complaints. I always seem to throw money at issues, and that just leads to more and more complexity and money. I had an idea, but wanted to run it past some of the more experienced guys.
Right now, my 4 horns are connected to an SD 250.2. That won't change. On the EX4, channel 1 is for upper fairing yellow baskets, and channel 2 for lower fairing mmats Neo600s. They are high passed at somewhere north of 100hz. Channels 3 and 4 are running the Faital 8fe200s in the lids in stereo with a high pass at about 70 and low pass at the 5k max. The amp claims 200 watts per channel at 4 ohms and 400 watts per channel at 2 ohms. This means each of the 6 non horns are getting 200 watts. Ideally, I would like to pass the Neo600s at a higher point and the yellow baskets at a lower point and set a low pass at about 5k.
To do this, I can buy a dsp and get the cutoffs exact, but this costs money and would require at least some reworking of the wiring I payed Lucky 7 to fix. The other option is to change the wiring strategy, and skip the dsp. Channels 1/2 could push the Neo600s and be high passed close to 200hz for the lowers in stereo. Channel 3 could be run in parallel for the Faitals in the lids (channels 3/4 are bandpass via the amlp at roughly 70-5k) I could then put the yellow baskets and their similar frequency needs on channel 4 in parallel. In theory, this would give each speaker the same 200 watts they have now, but give an amp quality high pass/bandpass setting more suitable for the speakers. This costs no money, doesn't require me to take apart any if the newly run wiring (other than at the amp), but would not be 100% accurate at the cutoff points like a dsp.
Is this a reasonable solution? I don't need a competition bike, just a little better control.
Right now, my 4 horns are connected to an SD 250.2. That won't change. On the EX4, channel 1 is for upper fairing yellow baskets, and channel 2 for lower fairing mmats Neo600s. They are high passed at somewhere north of 100hz. Channels 3 and 4 are running the Faital 8fe200s in the lids in stereo with a high pass at about 70 and low pass at the 5k max. The amp claims 200 watts per channel at 4 ohms and 400 watts per channel at 2 ohms. This means each of the 6 non horns are getting 200 watts. Ideally, I would like to pass the Neo600s at a higher point and the yellow baskets at a lower point and set a low pass at about 5k.
To do this, I can buy a dsp and get the cutoffs exact, but this costs money and would require at least some reworking of the wiring I payed Lucky 7 to fix. The other option is to change the wiring strategy, and skip the dsp. Channels 1/2 could push the Neo600s and be high passed close to 200hz for the lowers in stereo. Channel 3 could be run in parallel for the Faitals in the lids (channels 3/4 are bandpass via the amlp at roughly 70-5k) I could then put the yellow baskets and their similar frequency needs on channel 4 in parallel. In theory, this would give each speaker the same 200 watts they have now, but give an amp quality high pass/bandpass setting more suitable for the speakers. This costs no money, doesn't require me to take apart any if the newly run wiring (other than at the amp), but would not be 100% accurate at the cutoff points like a dsp.
Is this a reasonable solution? I don't need a competition bike, just a little better control.
I don't think it will fit. The cubby is really the only place left, unless I went Arc and used the break bracket.
You could use some FMODS from Harrison Labs to create individual crossover points. They are just little barrel connectors that plug inline with your RCA cables to do their tricks.
Here is their website https://www.hlabs.com/
Click on the box that says Crossovers and it will take you to the FMODS page. They have some selectors where you can pick your high pass or low pass crossover point. For instance you could set your high pass on your amp and then get a lo pass RCA FMOD of 6500 Hz. (if I am thinking correctly).
They say they can make custom frequency cutoff points for $50 a pair.
Don't know if this would appeal to you or not but I have used those little buggers since the early nineties and they are still working. Back then most car amps didn't have adjustable crossovers on them. These things kept me from blowing door speakers.
Here is their website https://www.hlabs.com/
Click on the box that says Crossovers and it will take you to the FMODS page. They have some selectors where you can pick your high pass or low pass crossover point. For instance you could set your high pass on your amp and then get a lo pass RCA FMOD of 6500 Hz. (if I am thinking correctly).
They say they can make custom frequency cutoff points for $50 a pair.
Don't know if this would appeal to you or not but I have used those little buggers since the early nineties and they are still working. Back then most car amps didn't have adjustable crossovers on them. These things kept me from blowing door speakers.
That may do the trick. It looks to me like they paralleled the upper left/lower left together and the upper right/lower right together. If that's the case I'll need to move some wiring around regardless of the method.
DSPs are a proven solution. Do it right the first time. Or pay a bunch on workarounds only to end up with a DSP at some point anyways.
T
T
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You could use some FMODS from Harrison Labs to create individual crossover points. They are just little barrel connectors that plug inline with your RCA cables to do their tricks.
Here is their website https://www.hlabs.com/
Click on the box that says Crossovers and it will take you to the FMODS page. They have some selectors where you can pick your high pass or low pass crossover point. For instance you could set your high pass on your amp and then get a lo pass RCA FMOD of 6500 Hz. (if I am thinking correctly).
They say they can make custom frequency cutoff points for $50 a pair.
Don't know if this would appeal to you or not but I have used those little buggers since the early nineties and they are still working. Back then most car amps didn't have adjustable crossovers on them. These things kept me from blowing door speakers.
Here is their website https://www.hlabs.com/
Click on the box that says Crossovers and it will take you to the FMODS page. They have some selectors where you can pick your high pass or low pass crossover point. For instance you could set your high pass on your amp and then get a lo pass RCA FMOD of 6500 Hz. (if I am thinking correctly).
They say they can make custom frequency cutoff points for $50 a pair.
Don't know if this would appeal to you or not but I have used those little buggers since the early nineties and they are still working. Back then most car amps didn't have adjustable crossovers on them. These things kept me from blowing door speakers.
They are right about the DSP GS. The FMODS are a solution to capping frequencies, but once you get that thing out in the wind there is no substitute for being able to tune.
Shoot a lot of times I would ride with a tune for several days before I really got a handle on where it needed to be tweaked. I might end up making a dozen adjustments or so before I got it to where I'd leave it for a while.
As small as the PSM is you could hide it pretty well in that big fairing of yours. Just simple in and out with the RCAs and plug up the three power wires.
Shoot a lot of times I would ride with a tune for several days before I really got a handle on where it needed to be tweaked. I might end up making a dozen adjustments or so before I got it to where I'd leave it for a while.
As small as the PSM is you could hide it pretty well in that big fairing of yours. Just simple in and out with the RCAs and plug up the three power wires.
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