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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 06:14 PM
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I thought I read an older post on here where some were suggesting posting some dsp tunes. I figured I would pass this along for anyone that may be new to dsp tuning like myself. I am by no means an expert this is where I'm at for MYsetup. It's a 4 speaker setup. This is what I have so far still have to road test, I tweaked a little after last ride and this is what I got. Sounding pretty good. Any feedback or advice with ARC PSM appreciated..
Setup :
2015 SGS Stock HU 8/2 Flash
2-SD 800.4 Bridged
2- Mmats 601cx Fairing ( 150w Bandpass HP @125 LP @ 12,000 )
2- Hertz sx690 lids ( 300w Bandpass HP@ 80 LP @ 6000 )

Thx to all on this forum for great input, I know this is just the beginning!





 
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 06:37 PM
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Is there a particular reason that you are cutting your 6x9's off so low?
 
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 07:34 PM
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I’m trying to balance with the MMats. They’re pretty bright and coming right at you, and at slower speed it just seemed like a lot with both. The lids go away at speed mostly for me, so I’m trying to pickup some bottom fill as well with the Hertz they play well low. I don’t have subs or anything and don’t plan on it so just trying to get the best I can with what I have. I’ve been going back and forth with that cutoff between 6-10k. I had it at 8k so I wanted to try it at 6 and see. It never ends..
 
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Old Jun 22, 2021 | 08:14 PM
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Those cuts are pretty deep (and wide) on both sets of speakers. Still not understanding why you're capping coax's at 12,000 on the front and 9,000 on the rear.
 

Last edited by SBates08; Jun 22, 2021 at 08:19 PM.
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 06:45 AM
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D1127 I congratulate you on putting your tuning settings out there for folks to look at. I would love to have a dedicated sub forum just for DSP tuning. I'm with the others on this though it is a bit unusual to cap coax speakers like you are doing. I can hear my el cheapo Rockford 6x9s at speed with the same amp you are using and I have the gains set conservatively to keep from blowing them. You are basically killing most of the frequencies that can reach your ears at highway speeds on your lids.

Also I am curious as to why the output tabs are dropped so low. I have all of mine with the same DSP set to zero. Since you have your master volume set to zero I suspect you needed to do that to keep things from getting too loud and/or trying to kill floor noise. I had the same problem when I first started using my Arc PSM. I watched a video from an Arc employee that taught me a trick to solve that problem. He said the voltage adjustments on the input sensitivity under the Setup tab should only be lowered under extreme circumstances. He advised leaving them at the lowest sensitivity setting to limit distortion. As soon as I made that adjustment I was able to leave all of my output and volume sliders at zero which is what he said the goal should be. I'm not at my workstation now so I can't remember exactly but I think that setting was 4 volts (which matches up with most unit outputs). When I had it lower I had to compensate by lowering volume sliders which was basically counter productive. Under the mixer tab I set everything to zero during gain adjustments and only tweaked the lowers a little bit to get them to blend with the fairing speakers to my liking.

All in all I love that little Arc DSP. I wish it had eight outputs instead of six but I'm getting by with it. With all the OEM Harley gadgets and add ons I have under my pre-Rushmore fairing nothing bigger will fit in there. I have to say I personally found the software pretty easy to use also.

Keep us posted with what you learn. I've got a feeling I'm going to be trying a set of those new Hertz 6x9s myself sometime soon.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 07:16 AM
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@ Bates
I was trying to get rid of alot of the " shrill or peakiness " on the high end at higher volumes when riding. I know it's like "... you paid for the whole speaker why not use it right?"..

I had the Hertz higher, but wanted to try it this way and see. May go back up, not sure. That dip at 400hz seemed to clean up a little of the muddiness on certain bass lines, sounded a little more tight and can hear attack more but not losing overall bottom punch at least for me. The MMats seem to come right at you and for me 400hz, 1K, and a little 5k seem to be " hot spots" from what I can tell. At 400hz it seems I can lose some of the "boxiness" ( if that's even a word), 1K with a little 5k is helping me get the vocals and some guitar solos to sit down better in the soundscape sometimes they seem to to jump right out and bite you. I'm trying to target mostly those without affecting the rest of the natural sound of the speakers,( I have the BT brackets no pods ). I know this is all based on what I'm hearing out of what I have. I'm still learning this dsp and I'm having fun doing it, but if there's a better way or any suggestions I'm all in. I would appreciate any any advice.
 

Last edited by D1127; Jun 23, 2021 at 07:20 AM. Reason: Correction
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 07:27 AM
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@ Hoyt
Thx for the head's up. I set the gains with the DMM through the "output" tab adjustment not the "mixer" tab. I am at 4v on sensitivity. I will redo later when I get home from work. Thx again..
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 07:44 AM
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Originally Posted by D1127
@ Hoyt
Thx for the head's up. I set the gains with the DMM through the "output" tab adjustment not the "mixer" tab. I am at 4v on sensitivity. I will redo later when I get home from work. Thx again..
I hope I'm remembering that setting right. If I have time when I get home I'll double check. I've got no experience at tuning or even friends that have done it that I can learn from. I basically use the DSP to cut frequencies that annoy me. For some reason vocals tend to hurt my ears at high volumes so my tunes might look a little weird to a lot of folks as well. I'm sure if someone with a good ear could listen to my GZs in the fairing they could make them sound better. Since I have PA speakers in the lowers helping them out though I like the sound OK at highway speeds.

To be honest I never understood the difference between the output sliders and the mixer adjustments, so I tried to keep them as close to zero as possible. I found that adjusting the Q a little bit on the lower frequencies tightened things up without having to run real high filter cutoffs. I believe I got that information from one of the tutorials on the American Hardbag website.
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Hoyt 1911A1
I hope I'm remembering that setting right. If I have time when I get home I'll double check. I've got no experience at tuning or even friends that have done it that I can learn from. I basically use the DSP to cut frequencies that annoy me. For some reason vocals tend to hurt my ears at high volumes so my tunes might look a little weird to a lot of folks as well. I'm sure if someone with a good ear could listen to my GZs in the fairing they could make them sound better. Since I have PA speakers in the lowers helping them out though I like the sound OK at highway speeds.

To be honest I never understood the difference between the output sliders and the mixer adjustments, so I tried to keep them as close to zero as possible. I found that adjusting the Q a little bit on the lower frequencies tightened things up without having to run real high filter cutoffs. I believe I got that information from one of the tutorials on the American Hardbag website.
Agreed. Not really sure what the difference is either with those tabs. The only thing I was able to find out from ARC was that you could trim the input sensitivity through the mixer tab so your touching red on input meter but not full on solid red. When I set my amp gains with everything at zero and master at -5.00, that’s where I ended up on output tabs for 150w ( -9.00) and 300w (-6.00) amps 1/4 turn up, -5db 1K test tone. I have to say the Hertz are pretty awesome. They sound big and full with hardly anything done to them. My battle is mostly with the MMats and getting them to “play nice” with the hertz. At the time I started this upgrade journey, the GZ’s were n/a neither was the DSR1 or I for sure would have gotten them. But after what I went through with Holley and my EFI, wasn’t sure when they would be available. Makes sense about the cutoffs, I’m still playing with them, set points and slopes. Appreciate the help, I will forge ahead...
 
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Old Jun 23, 2021 | 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by D1127
Agreed. Not really sure what the difference is either with those tabs. The only thing I was able to find out from ARC was that you could trim the input sensitivity through the mixer tab so your touching red on input meter but not full on solid red. When I set my amp gains with everything at zero and master at -5.00, that’s where I ended up on output tabs for 150w ( -9.00) and 300w (-6.00) amps 1/4 turn up, -5db 1K test tone. I have to say the Hertz are pretty awesome. They sound big and full with hardly anything done to them. My battle is mostly with the MMats and getting them to “play nice” with the hertz. At the time I started this upgrade journey, the GZ’s were n/a neither was the DSR1 or I for sure would have gotten them. But after what I went through with Holley and my EFI, wasn’t sure when they would be available. Makes sense about the cutoffs, I’m still playing with them, set points and slopes. Appreciate the help, I will forge ahead...
Thanks for the tip on the mixer input settings. I wondered if it was sort of like a gain adjustment on an amp. I think I'll take a look at mine the next time I'm tinkering with it. I wonder if I could mute everything and still see the input graph with a test tone? That might be a good test for me to try.

When I was running the original screaming banshee WDX6 motos in my fairing I had VERY aggressive cuts in the mids on those channels. Much less aggressive on the rears, a little heavy on the mid cuts for the Mmats PA speakers in my lowers.
 
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