stinger 700.4 amp
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 5,749
Likes: 1,603
From: High Point, NC.
You have got that ALL WRONG!!!
When bridging that amp, you will get 350w per channel. Not 175. If you read the spec sheet, it states that the output is 125w each channel running 4 ohm speakers and 175w each channel running 2 ohm speakers.
350w on each channel when bridged running 4 ohm. That is what you will be getting running the gz's bridged.
When bridging that amp, you will get 350w per channel. Not 175. If you read the spec sheet, it states that the output is 125w each channel running 4 ohm speakers and 175w each channel running 2 ohm speakers.
350w on each channel when bridged running 4 ohm. That is what you will be getting running the gz's bridged.
Last edited by teedoff65; Feb 16, 2022 at 08:22 PM.
Stage III
Joined: May 2020
Posts: 3
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
You have got that ALL WRONG!!!
When bridging that amp, you will get 350w per channel. Not 175. If you read the spec sheet, it states that the output is 125w each channel running 4 ohm speakers and 175w each channel running 2 ohm speakers.
350w on each channel when bridged running 4 ohm. That is what you will be getting running the gz's bridged.
When bridging that amp, you will get 350w per channel. Not 175. If you read the spec sheet, it states that the output is 125w each channel running 4 ohm speakers and 175w each channel running 2 ohm speakers.
350w on each channel when bridged running 4 ohm. That is what you will be getting running the gz's bridged.
How do I wire them to get this amp to output the 175W @2ohms?
Thanks
Road Master
Joined: Apr 2021
Posts: 981
Likes: 134
From: Vancouver Canada
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
Hi all, I am using this setup as well, spx700x4 trying to bridge to 2 channels with the GZ yellow baskets. My question is with the inputs. To run high level inputs, the manual says to cut the RCA connectors off and wire direct. I am using the factory head unit. Which input wires do I choose? I have the outputs front bridged to right and rear bridged to left. Thank you for any help, it seems I am going backwards with this at the moment.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 399
From: Vancouver, BC
Hi all, I am using this setup as well, spx700x4 trying to bridge to 2 channels with the GZ yellow baskets. My question is with the inputs. To run high level inputs, the manual says to cut the RCA connectors off and wire direct. I am using the factory head unit. Which input wires do I choose? I have the outputs front bridged to right and rear bridged to left. Thank you for any help, it seems I am going backwards with this at the moment.
You could disconnect the wiring at the fairing speaker pod and use this adaptor to connect the HU outputs to male RCA plugs for the amp input. No cutting needed on either the bike or amp harnesses. Yet another option is to use a T harness like this that breaks it all out. Again how this comes together depends on what your intent is.
If you really want to cut into the bike wiring to get at the HU speaker outputs for your high-level amp inputs (I don't recommend doing this) the info you are looking for is:
Front left positive pink/orange (pin L2 on the HU)
Front left negative pink/gray (pin L1)
Front right positive pink (pin M1)
Front right negative pink/black (pin M2)
Last edited by hamah; May 31, 2022 at 06:35 PM.
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 68
Likes: 3
I want to make sure I understand what you're doing here. You intend to run the fairing speakers in parallel on your right channel bridged output and the TP speakers in parallel on your left channel bridged output? You'll give up rear fade control and have both front and rears at the same volume? Or are you intending to only amplify 2 GZs in the fairing and run stock TP speakers unamplified from the HU? This later way you still have fade and stereo. Big difference in these approaches.
You could disconnect the wiring at the fairing speaker pod and use this adaptor to connect the HU outputs to male RCA plugs for the amp input. No cutting needed on either the bike or amp harnesses. Yet another option is to use a T harness like this that breaks it all out. Again how this comes together depends on what your intent is.
If you really want to cut into the bike wiring to get at the HU speaker outputs for your high-level amp inputs (I don't recommend doing this) the info you are looking for is:
Front left positive pink/orange (pin L2 on the HU)
Front left negative pink/gray (pin L1)
Front right positive pink (pin M1)
Front right negative pink/black (pin M2)
You could disconnect the wiring at the fairing speaker pod and use this adaptor to connect the HU outputs to male RCA plugs for the amp input. No cutting needed on either the bike or amp harnesses. Yet another option is to use a T harness like this that breaks it all out. Again how this comes together depends on what your intent is.
If you really want to cut into the bike wiring to get at the HU speaker outputs for your high-level amp inputs (I don't recommend doing this) the info you are looking for is:
Front left positive pink/orange (pin L2 on the HU)
Front left negative pink/gray (pin L1)
Front right positive pink (pin M1)
Front right negative pink/black (pin M2)
which inputs on the amp itself would I use? Bridged across like the outputs?
Last edited by oly22; May 31, 2022 at 08:46 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 1,354
Likes: 399
From: Vancouver, BC
Either of those 2 approaches will work. The advantage of the T harness is if you decide to amplify the rears in the future.
EDIT: just noticed I missed your last question. Use the front inputs. Set the switch to 2 CH.
EDIT: just noticed I missed your last question. Use the front inputs. Set the switch to 2 CH.
Last edited by hamah; May 31, 2022 at 09:26 PM.
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