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Doing it "the right way" is not to run the ground to the battery. Ensure you have a good solid frame ground for the amp and that both the amp ground run, as well as the battery-ground strap, are capable of carrying the required load. Connecting the amp ground directly to the battery is not only a bad practice but potentially dangerous. I don't want to **** anyone off here (seems almost like a religious or political argument) so you do what you want but I'm speaking from decades of experience as a DC power plant engineer. It's not a good idea. Rather than repeat myself, you can find multiple threads here where I explain why this isn't a good idea but again, suit yourself.
It's not hard to find comments and articles out there that will argue both sides so you will need to decide for yourself. Articles like this one agree with my position. You will also hear people tell you how automotive electrical and bike electrical are very different so the justification for not running the amp ground directly to the battery does not appy. At the root, they are not very different at all.
Then why do some AMP manufacturers recommend running the ground to the battery for marine / powersports applications?
Then why do some AMP manufacturers recommend running the ground to the battery for marine / powersports applications?
I honestly don't know. Laziness and/or ignorance is my guess (yup, engineers can be lazy or ignorant as well as the next guy). Marine is a lot different than automotive applications but even then the DC return should not go directly to the battery but to a bus bar designated for that purpose. Anyway, you do as you wish. If by some unlucky circumstance, something bad happens (I've seen it firsthand) I'm sure the manufacturer will have your back.
Just to throw a monkey wrench in the sprocket. Hamah is about the only guy here that doesn't recommend grounding to the battery. The other 976 guys here that have done multiple systems, some with 10,000 or more watts says battery.
I've had audio in mine since 2015. No issues, ever!!
Just to throw a monkey wrench in the sprocket. Hamah is about the only guy here that doesn't recommend grounding to the battery. The other 976 guys here that have done multiple systems, some with 10,000 or more watts says battery.
I've had audio in mine since 2015. No issues, ever!!
I won't dispute that DSM. For sure the most vocal here on this topic run the return to the battery (likely the majority here do) without ever seeing a problem doing that. But I can say with absolute certainty that you will never have a problem doing it the way that I know to be correct. I've yet to hear a convincing argument as to why you should not do it "the right way" and I've seen what can happen when you don't. Anyway, carry on.
I won't dispute that DSM. For sure the most vocal here on this topic run the return to the battery (likely the majority here do) without ever seeing a problem doing that. But I can say with absolute certainty that you will never have a problem doing it the way that I know to be correct. I've yet to hear a convincing argument as to why you should not do it "the right way" and I've seen what can happen when you don't. Anyway, carry on.
So I kind of buzzed through that link you posted. I am in agreement with you, everything 12v I've wired used the chassis for ground... But there's one part that it mentioned a ground to the battery when that part had an isolated ground? Can you elaborate? Obviously this isn't something new, but it's never came up in any of my previous training
So I kind of buzzed through that link you posted. I am in agreement with you, everything 12v I've wired used the chassis for ground... But there's one part that it mentioned a ground to the battery when that part had an isolated ground? Can you elaborate? Obviously this isn't something new, but it's never came up in any of my previous training
The basic idea is that the negative battery return is isolated from the devices' chassis/enclosure and therefore even if there is DC continuity between the device and the frame of the vehicle there is no opportunity for an accidental path to the negative post of the battery through the device should the battery-chassis ground strap fail. I would need to reread the article as I'm surprised the author would say that even this is ok. Unless you know with 100% certainty that the devices' negative return can't offer an accidental path you should operate under the premise that it does and so don't connect the negative return directly to the battery. That's the basis of all engineering, you design for something that can't happen...just in case it does.
I won't dispute that DSM. For sure the most vocal here on this topic run the return to the battery (likely the majority here do) without ever seeing a problem doing that. But I can say with absolute certainty that you will never have a problem doing it the way that I know to be correct. I've yet to hear a convincing argument as to why you should not do it "the right way" and I've seen what can happen when you don't. Anyway, carry on.
After re reading my post, it kinda came off as a dig to you. That was not my intention. Full disclosure... grounding to the ground post in front of the battery wouldn't be an issue for me. I just don't believe the folks that make their ground in the fairing are doing themselves justice. Personally speaking, my 4 amps are all grounded to the battery. I have run into no issues in 7 years. I try not to fix stuff that hasn't broke.
Another issue that comes up is if several high current amps are grounded to the frame the factory battery strap could not handle the load and should be upgraded. As long as folks remember that I imagine everything would be fine, but if someone forgot to install a heavier gauge run from the battery to the frame I would think that it could easily be overloaded.
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