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Test sounds correct. Wiring 99% not the issue unless it's the connection at the amp itself
No that connection is solid, used ferrule connectors with proper crimp tool, all ends are solid.
So, down to bad amp then?
I mean it cuts out connected in Stereo also and with gain's all the way down which is way below the amps potential, it just requires the volume be at 3/4 or there's about and a song that hits.
First off is your battery fully charged? And have you tried playing your stereo with the bike running?
Do you have a battery tender or battery charger hooked up? They can sometimes be the source of popping, clucking, noise, etc.
First off is your battery fully charged? And have you tried playing your stereo with the bike running?
Do you have a battery tender or battery charger hooked up? They can sometimes be the source of popping, clucking, noise, etc.
Yes, the battery is on a tender and fully charged, and its just past its one year old mark.
Yes to running, I tuned the amp with motor running and the problem of the sound cutting out happens running or not, it just requires 3/4 or more volume
just unplugged the tender and turned on the ignition, still get the clicks and pops for lack of any other words, and it is consistent.
it makes it sound pattern twice, kind of a click, click, pop and than again. these are not loud or anything and possibly normal?
But the tender is apparently not the source of that.
Is your outer fairing still off? Take a picture of your amp settings.
I did a bone-head when I installed mine. Fade wasn't working, redid everything multiple times. Days of troubleshooting. Took another member here to see my ch selector was still set on 2ch, yup, bone-head move on my part! LOL!
Where is your inline fuse? Did you double check those connections?
From the battery and the power leads disconnected on the amp. Measure ohms, should be the exact same measurement as when shorting the leads on the meter.
Measuring OHMs across the wires won't show anything, his voltage drop test while the amp is pulling power is much more accurate. A DMM only puts mv into a wire when reading ohms.
Ohm's across the wires will absolutely confirm connections are there and solid. I specifically said it should read the same as shorted leads. With that length/gauge of wire there should be no resistance (technically there is, but will be essentially unmeasurable with standard DMM, .6 milliohms per foot). If there is, something is bad connection-wise, fuse etc.
Ohm's across the wires will absolutely confirm connections are there and solid. I specifically said it should read the same as shorted leads. With that length/gauge of wire there should be no resistance (technically there is, but will be essentially unmeasurable with standard DMM, .6 milliohms per foot). If there is, something is bad connection-wise, fuse etc.
Maybe you mistook my post. An ohm reading will not show anything AFTER he already confirmed there was no resistance during operation with the voltage drop test. I take it you've never done one, or understand the purpose of?
Hello all, I just finished (BUT not really!) the speaker\amp upgrade on my bike BUT its got a problem
I have formatted an email to send off to the folks at stinger explaining the situation but I thought I would run it by you knowledgeable folks first.
so here is my email:
I am having troubles with my new amp install, I believe the amp is bad.
I have installed the new SPX700X4 Amp on my 2014 Harley Davidson Street Glide Special
I am using the stock head unit which is the Boom 6.5 and have replaced the stock speakers with a pair of Ground Zero 6.5" Coax GZCF 6.5SPL speakers
The problem is:
Well, I guess the first symptom is upon startup (turning on the bike) I hear something of a high pitched buzz, some clicks and some pops, before the music starts.
And second and the most important is that after a some period of time with the volume up to around 3/4’s or so it stops producing music, at which time I can hear a faint buzz.
This sometime happens with a pop and sometimes not (I think) BUT, I have to power down and back on to get music back again.
The one light on the amp is still blue all this time, so its not going into any fault mode.
My setting\setup
SPX700X4 Amp
A pair of Ground Zero 6.5" Coax GZCF 6.5SPL speakers (which are 4ohm)
I have the SADDLE TRAMP STAK8 8 Gauge Power Sport Amp Kit for the amps power.
I have the high level output of the head unit going to the Front L\R inputs on the amp, I bought "speaker to RCA" plugs so its clean and I did not have to cut the wires on the amp.
I am set to 2ch mode
I have the two speakers setup in bridge mode. Right speaker connection = RL- & RR+ Left speaker connection = FL- & FR+
NOTE: I have also tried just connecting the speakers in stereo mode which maybe it takes a bit long to cut out but still the music stops when set to ž volume! gains on lowest
I have tried taking the DMM reading down to its lowest (gains set to start position, all the way counter clockwise) which is about 19.67v and still stops producing music after a time with volume at about ž volume.
It does seem to stay working if I keep the volume low like half and below BUT I have not let it run for any length of time like that to know for sure.
I have bypassed the amp and just plugged the speakers into the head unit and it plays just fine at "full volume" for 10 mins. At least, which is MUCH longer then the above.
Therefore It seems to NOT be the speakers or the head unit, but if course its also not hitting anything like close to the volume these speakers are capable of so there’s that…
Any "OTHER" thoughts or is it just the amp is bad?
Is your radio flashed?
I had a recent Stinger SPX700 bridged on a set of Euphoria coax that was randomly working like yours. It was be fine and then could barely hear it at full volume or nothing at all. Other days would work. I ended up replacing it and no issues so far. When I was diagnosing, I let it play for 2 hours in the garage and no issues. Only happened when riding.
I would say amp is bad. Also, make sure your HU is flashed.
Last edited by cshocker; Jun 26, 2023 at 12:59 PM.
Maybe you mistook my post. An ohm reading will not show anything AFTER he already confirmed there was no resistance during operation with the voltage drop test. I take it you've never done one, or understand the purpose of?
I actually never saw your post about the voltage drop, nor his reply! Yes, that absolutely confirms wiring. Very familiar with drop tests.
First I just want to say THANKS to all for all the help!
And Trying to answer all that has come in since I last looked in this one post!
Yes, the Firing is still off and attaching a picture of my settings.
NOTE: the SENS Gains are all the way down at present.
FREQ is set to about 100Hz per test tone and my ears say it should be AND I am thinking everybody will agree that the FREQ setting has nothing to do with the problem so can be ignored.
I have done an ohms test which says all is good and the voltage drop test which says the same.
All connection test good BUT just to be beyond positive its not my current power or ground lines.
I just received enough 8 gage OFC cable to run (separate\new) test lines back to battery for both power and ground but I cant do this until this evening.
This should put the power and or ground conversation to bed I am thinking.
will comment on that after I have done that.
As to 2ch, now Im confused.
It is supposed to be set to 2ch as I only have 2 channels coming in?
I have asked and been told and the instruction kinda say that on this amp???
Yes I had the radio flashed before installing the amp, its an RF flash
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