Hello all, I just finished (BUT not really!) the speaker\amp upgrade on my bike BUT its got a problem
I have formatted an email to send off to the folks at stinger explaining the situation but I thought I would run it by you knowledgeable folks first.
so here is my email:
I am having troubles with my new amp install, I believe the amp is bad.
I have installed the new SPX700X4 Amp on my 2014 Harley Davidson Street Glide Special

I am using the stock head unit which is the Boom 6.5 and have replaced the stock speakers with a pair of Ground Zero 6.5" Coax GZCF 6.5SPL speakers

The problem is:
Well, I guess the first symptom is upon startup (turning on the bike) I hear something of a high pitched buzz, some clicks and some pops, before the music starts.
And second and the most important is that after a some period of time with the volume up to around 3/4’s or so it stops producing music, at which time I can hear a faint buzz.

This sometime happens with a pop and sometimes not (I think) BUT, I have to power down and back on to get music back again.
The one light on the amp is still blue all this time, so its not going into any fault mode.

My setting\setup
SPX700X4 Amp
A pair of Ground Zero 6.5" Coax GZCF 6.5SPL speakers (which are 4ohm)
I have the SADDLE TRAMP STAK8 8 Gauge Power Sport Amp Kit for the amps power.
I have the high level output of the head unit going to the Front L\R inputs on the amp, I bought "speaker to RCA" plugs so its clean and I did not have to cut the wires on the amp.
I am set to 2ch mode
I have the two speakers setup in bridge mode. Right speaker connection = RL- & RR+ Left speaker connection = FL- & FR+
NOTE: I have also tried just connecting the speakers in stereo mode which maybe it takes a bit long to cut out but still the music stops when set to ž volume! gains on lowest
I have tried taking the DMM reading down to its lowest (gains set to start position, all the way counter clockwise) which is about 19.67v and still stops producing music after a time with volume at about ž volume.

It does seem to stay working if I keep the volume low like half and below BUT I have not let it run for any length of time like that to know for sure.

I have bypassed the amp and just plugged the speakers into the head unit and it plays just fine at "full volume" for 10 mins. At least, which is MUCH longer then the above.

Therefore It seems to NOT be the speakers or the head unit, but if course its also not hitting anything like close to the volume these speakers are capable of so there’s that…

Any "OTHER" thoughts or is it just the amp is bad?

 

are your power and ground connections solid?

 

My thoughts initially, as well.

OP, what did you use for your power and ground? I see the 8 ga kit listed, did you run them all the way to the batt?

 

Hum, I think\thought they were solid but of course now I have doubts!
I did this about 6 months ago in prep for this amp.
I install a distribution block I bought off Amazon

“RECOIL SDB14P 4-Way Mini Power Distribution Block, 1 X 4/8 Gauge in / 4 X 8/10 Gauge Out Power Distribution Ground Distributor Block for Car Audio Amplifier Splitter, 2 Pack”

I ran 4 gauge to the battery for the power and for the ground block I ran direct to the frame.

See images

So how do I prove power is good or that the problem IS power? Becomes the question and then is it ground or power????

 

it's been debated greatly on here, but the recommendation is to run the ground directly to the battery...

 

Ground to the battery! With the fairing off, run it for your 10 minutes with the fairing off and see if the Stinger is going in to overload (the LED changes color).

 

Ok, I added a ground from my ground block to the battery using 8 gauge OFC wire. meaning the ground block goes back to battery AND to the frame (best of both worlds I hope)
I don't have enough wire to go from the amp direct to battery as test "today" but I do have some coming and will be here tomorrow.
with those two things said
it still dies a quarter way into Abacab with volume up most the way (three more dots would = full volume)
the amp does not show sign of overload, again the LED on the amp stays a constant blue illumination playing or NOT.

 

If you have a volt meter with long enough leads, do a voltage drop across the wires when the amp goes into reduced power or whatever is going on. High voltage across the positive or ground wires will let you know where to start looking.

Did you take the main fuse feeding the amp and make sure the connection was tight? I've seen cheap fuse blocks not keep a good grip on the fuse and cause high resistance. If it's bad enough it'll get hot

 

I had to look up HOW to do a voltage drop test! I am no electronics wizard (very basic please).
So IF I did it right and, I am reading it right, this is what I "did and saw".


Connected one lead to the amp power at the amp, Connect the other lead to the amp power line at the battery.
Set my DMM to Volts, DC, and a range of 0.000v
I get with the music playing a reading of 0.006 to 0.004, fluctuating depending on the intensity of sound it seems
it did not have any kind of change when the music stopped, its still playing according to the head unit just the amp is not making sound now

Doing this same thing on the Ground wire I get 0.004 to 0.002 with same results otherwise.

Is there somewhere else to do this test on?

As for the fuse I know it is good and that it is tight including the screws that hold it in place (YA a crap design, IMHO)

 

Test sounds correct. Wiring 99% not the issue unless it's the connection at the amp itself