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My buddy had his 11 cvo rg completely customized a few years ago. He had some issues with the work and sent it back to the shop a few times. (I assume he got tired of dealing with them) It eventually just sat because the battery would die after 3 days. They added rear air ride and audio to it. I never went bakc in the fairing to see what amp was in it but I do know it has an aquatic head unit, hertz speakers up front and hertz 8s in the bags.
I'm trying to figure out how to test what is draining his battery so damn fast. Hes looking to sell and just wants to put a killswitch on everything but I like to figure stuff out. Can anyone point me in the right direction to start troubleshooting this?
It needs to be ridden and not just sitting in a shed. If I don't help him out it'll sit there until he dies and then it'll come to me lol.
I would start with a digital multi meter. Pull all fuses from the fuse panel and any aftermarket in line fuses, from the audio and air ride.
Do an ammeter test to see if there is a current draw with ignition off. If there is, it's probably either starter or charging system back feeding. If none, proceed to checking the ammeter while inserting the fuses, one at a time. I would put the air ride in line fuse in first, then check amp draw. If none, then put the audio in line fuses in, check the meter again. If none, proceed with that process, one fuse or circuit, at a time.
It's a timely process, but it will isolate where the issue lies. Good luck and happy hunting.
I would start with a digital multi meter. Pull all fuses from the fuse panel and any aftermarket in line fuses, from the audio and air ride.
Do an ammeter test to see if there is a current draw with ignition off. If there is, it's probably either starter or charging system back feeding. If none, proceed to checking the ammeter while inserting the fuses, one at a time. I would put the air ride in line fuse in first, then check amp draw. If none, then put the audio in line fuses in, check the meter again. If none, proceed with that process, one fuse or circuit, at a time.
It's a timely process, but it will isolate where the issue lies. Good luck and happy hunting.
In the automotive field we do the same thing but the opposite of pulling fuses.
You can use a test light also, between the battery cable and battery with the cable unhooked. It should light up if there’s a drain, then pull fuses one at a time till it goes away and that’s the circuit that’s offending.
I'd wager a beer that the Amp isn't wired right. Meaning it isn't switching off with the head unit. There'd be a control wire from the head unit that connects to the Amp signaling on/off.
Quickest test would be to attach a charged battery to the bike, key off,radio off, and put your ear to a speaker. If you hear white noise you know where to start digging. If you're older and kinda deaf, grab one of the kids and put their ear to it. Attach power and let them tell you if they hear continuous white noise from the speaker with power attached.
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Finding a draw.
