trigger (power on) wire for Elf amp
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Joined: Mar 2008
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From: Denver, Colorado
trigger (power on) wire for Elf amp
Hey Guys,
I have a new elf amp and Im looking for a wire off my stock 08 HK radio I can use to turn the amp on and off with the radio, I have it wired to the cig lighter so it goes on and off with the bike right now but I get some noise out of the speakers when the radio's off not to mention I would just prefer it was off when not in use.
Also does anyone know what the stock speakers are rated at? I have the gain turned way down until I get my J&M 7.25's.
Ride on!
I have a new elf amp and Im looking for a wire off my stock 08 HK radio I can use to turn the amp on and off with the radio, I have it wired to the cig lighter so it goes on and off with the bike right now but I get some noise out of the speakers when the radio's off not to mention I would just prefer it was off when not in use.
Also does anyone know what the stock speakers are rated at? I have the gain turned way down until I get my J&M 7.25's.
Ride on!
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
There is no wiring accessible on the HK that will do what you want; i.e. there is no output power from the HK that is controlled by the on/off switch of the HK. You may see on a wiring diagram a + wire pinout on the HK labeled as "accessory enable," however, it isn't a switched circuit controlled by the HK on/off switch.
Can't speak to the Elf, but the Arc 125.2 on/off was controlled by the high level speaker wire inputs; i.e. when there was an audio output from the HK radio sent to the amp via the high level inputs, the amp turned on and when there was no signal (the HK was turned off) the amp would turn off. However, if low level RCA inputs are used, the on/off from the high level inputs was inoperative and there is no comparable feature using the RCA inputs.
Hope you find a solution.
Carl
Can't speak to the Elf, but the Arc 125.2 on/off was controlled by the high level speaker wire inputs; i.e. when there was an audio output from the HK radio sent to the amp via the high level inputs, the amp turned on and when there was no signal (the HK was turned off) the amp would turn off. However, if low level RCA inputs are used, the on/off from the high level inputs was inoperative and there is no comparable feature using the RCA inputs.
Hope you find a solution.
Carl
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2006
Posts: 10,449
Likes: 46
From: Roswell, GA
The OEM speakers are 2 ohm impedance.
If you want to reinstall the CB module, a member here makes a great bracket that allows you to mount the amp on top of the bracket and the CB module (or XM, etc.) below the Harman Kardon head unit:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...d-modules.html
If you want a switched circuit to turn the amp on/off, you could use the accessory switch on the fairing cap. I haven't done this since I use it for the Motolights.
Carl
If you want to reinstall the CB module, a member here makes a great bracket that allows you to mount the amp on top of the bracket and the CB module (or XM, etc.) below the Harman Kardon head unit:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...d-modules.html
If you want a switched circuit to turn the amp on/off, you could use the accessory switch on the fairing cap. I haven't done this since I use it for the Motolights.
Carl
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 83
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From: Denver, Colorado
The OEM speakers are 2 ohm impedance.
If you want to reinstall the CB module, a member here makes a great bracket that allows you to mount the amp on top of the bracket and the CB module (or XM, etc.) below the Harman Kardon head unit:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...d-modules.html
If you want a switched circuit to turn the amp on/off, you could use the accessory switch on the fairing cap. I haven't done this since I use it for the Motolights.
Carl
If you want to reinstall the CB module, a member here makes a great bracket that allows you to mount the amp on top of the bracket and the CB module (or XM, etc.) below the Harman Kardon head unit:
https://www.hdforums.com/forum/touri...d-modules.html
If you want a switched circuit to turn the amp on/off, you could use the accessory switch on the fairing cap. I haven't done this since I use it for the Motolights.
Carl
as for the CB I'm not even sure if it worked, I never used it. I use the accessory switch for my grip heaters.
Are there any outputs I could add a relay to without adding noise to the speakers?
Thanks for your help.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
odds are the noise is being injected somewhere else down the line. I'm not familiar with this amp so I can't speak of it's quality. As far as speaker ratings, the radio is rated at 20 watts per channel but realistic power is more like 12 - 15 tops. Therefore the speakers should be rated at somewhere around 25 - 50 watts max.
Here's a couple of things to try that are fairly simple with the fairing cap off. This is assuming you're running your ground to something inside the fairing like a fairing bracket. You do NOT want to run a ground wire back to your battery. Too much interference can get in that wire on that run.
1. Where your ground is connected in the fairing, remove it, remove the bolt, take a dremel tool and buff the paint to bare metal where it grounds. Put your ground back, tighten and then test. If this works, immediately take some undercoating, primer, spray paint, just something and touch up what you just buffed off and you're done.
2. if 1 doesn't work, then try moving your turn-on wire to the orange/white wire in a harness that is laying free right behind your headlamp.
3. your main power wire; are you getting juice inside the fairing somewhere or did you run it directly to the battery? If you ran it to the battery and steps 1 and 2 didn't work for you, then you can pick up a "noise supressor" from any quality car audio store.
On a side note. I posted a couple of weeks back a problem I had with noise and my J&M amp. The problem turned out to be the run,turn,brake controller that was under my seat on my Ultra. I found it (the source of my noise) completely by accident testing something else. Once I pulled that out, I have ZERO noise from my amp now.
Here's a couple of things to try that are fairly simple with the fairing cap off. This is assuming you're running your ground to something inside the fairing like a fairing bracket. You do NOT want to run a ground wire back to your battery. Too much interference can get in that wire on that run.
1. Where your ground is connected in the fairing, remove it, remove the bolt, take a dremel tool and buff the paint to bare metal where it grounds. Put your ground back, tighten and then test. If this works, immediately take some undercoating, primer, spray paint, just something and touch up what you just buffed off and you're done.
2. if 1 doesn't work, then try moving your turn-on wire to the orange/white wire in a harness that is laying free right behind your headlamp.
3. your main power wire; are you getting juice inside the fairing somewhere or did you run it directly to the battery? If you ran it to the battery and steps 1 and 2 didn't work for you, then you can pick up a "noise supressor" from any quality car audio store.
On a side note. I posted a couple of weeks back a problem I had with noise and my J&M amp. The problem turned out to be the run,turn,brake controller that was under my seat on my Ultra. I found it (the source of my noise) completely by accident testing something else. Once I pulled that out, I have ZERO noise from my amp now.
Last edited by UltraNutZ; Oct 11, 2011 at 10:29 AM. Reason: orange/white wire is what I meant to say
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
also one thing to keep in mind with these amps (most of them anyway) for HDs. Most people want plug and play kinda stuff therefore the manufactures cater to that. but what you usually wind up with is an amp that has speaker level inputs (speaker wires feeding the audio signal from the radio to the amp) instead of RCA outputs. The difference is the voltage output of each type with RCA being the cleaner way to go because RCAs do not magnify the electrical noises being induced or generated by the radio itself. What you could do if this winds up being your noise issue AND the amp accepts RCA inputs is go down to some place like Best Buy and pick up a pair of "line level - RCA" converters. You'll need 1 for each side, left and right. The key here is when you're done installing these things, tape up REALLY well the RCA connections for 2 reasons; 1 - you don't want them to come unplugged after your fairing is back together. 2 - you don't want to give noise any place to enter the equation. The bare metal on the RCA connections is an inductor.
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