FLHTK Audio options
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 185
Likes: 22
From: Illinois
LOL...Amen brother...
You know the saying... "aint Momma happy...aint nobody happy"
I have to agree here....Can I afford to drop it off and say here ya go... do it up? Sure, but half the fun for me anyhow is the research and doing it myself.
And UltraNutZ...nice pic. We have something in common....hot wife's...lol
My point was 2-fold and I guess you missed it;
1.) there are a LOT of cost effective alternatives that perform well and sound great
2.) my wife is smokin hot! LOL
The funny thing is.. I buy product from DF and will continue to do so. Right now I'm contemplating (waiting on JL Audio XD600/6 amp to arrive to test for fitment) a set of your By Nine Lids. Good price and I like your company. Couple of questions...
1.) do your lids come with this hydrophobic fiber material that supposedly keeps water out?
2.) if so, does it really work or is it just a sales gimmic and also does it affect sound quality?
I would think if someone stuck with a pair of 6x9s that do not have the center stalk for tweeter/mid mount that goes down through the center of the woofer but instead the woofer being a solid piece of material and the tweet/mid being mounted in some other fashion would probably be best served (weather-wise I mean)
1.) there are a LOT of cost effective alternatives that perform well and sound great
2.) my wife is smokin hot! LOL
The funny thing is.. I buy product from DF and will continue to do so. Right now I'm contemplating (waiting on JL Audio XD600/6 amp to arrive to test for fitment) a set of your By Nine Lids. Good price and I like your company. Couple of questions...
1.) do your lids come with this hydrophobic fiber material that supposedly keeps water out?
2.) if so, does it really work or is it just a sales gimmic and also does it affect sound quality?
I would think if someone stuck with a pair of 6x9s that do not have the center stalk for tweeter/mid mount that goes down through the center of the woofer but instead the woofer being a solid piece of material and the tweet/mid being mounted in some other fashion would probably be best served (weather-wise I mean)
To this day we have not heard a quality sounding "Water Proof" Speaker (in our opinion) that will fit this application. The center posted (coaxial) speakers are going to be more prone to allow the water to come down the center while the Component counter parts will not. However they don't hold much water in the cone anyway and will allow water around the rim unless sealed extremal well. Keep in mind, most if not all component 6X9's are not water proof as well, especially the tweeter that is facing up.
Advanced
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 72
Likes: 1
From: Nova Scotia, Canada
no sir... all you will need is an 8ga power wire to run directly to the battery fuse appropriate fuse holder located near the battery. You also want your ground wire to be 8ga. Grind off the paint on your vertical fairing bracket, attach your ground there, then spray rustoleum over it once attached. You do NOT want to run your ground all the way back to the battery.
going to install my RF PBR300X2 this weekend, and was just curious how long of a power wire(8-gauge), from a fairing mounted amp to the battery you guy's are using? I seen a few install's suggesting 6 feet, that seem's a little long doesn't it?
Bike is at my buddy's place so i can't do a rough measurement!
Thanks In Advance!!
Stang36
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
it's roughly 5 ft from radio down to fairing opening, then back to battery but you want some slack so 6ft would be perfect length in my opinion. Don't forget to ground your amp with the same size wire.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 1,156
Likes: 27
From: Texas
anything with a higher rating than G, she'd kill me so here ya go
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ax4zw3gav4dspcl/DSC00496.JPG
https://www.dropbox.com/s/ax4zw3gav4dspcl/DSC00496.JPG
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 62
Likes: 0
From: Mansfield Ohio
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Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 14,670
Likes: 139
From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
never put one on a bike but used them quite frequently for cars in crank it up competitions to drive subwoofer amps. I don't really see a need for them in any other normal situation mainly because you're going to put a line driver on a headunit to increase the voltage outputs of the RCAs only to turn the amp gains down. Your amp still has a point where it will clip and go into protection mode. Kinda defeats the purpose IMO.
We have only put them on one, and it was our trike that is used in stereo competitions, and marketing. As the radio that used to be in there was aftermarket and only put out 2 volts on the RCA's. Most other aftermarket radios put out between 3-4 Volts, so line drivers are not really needed.
For a regular system, (HK Head unit) we use a line level converter to adjust the AC Voltage (watts) coming from the radio before the amp.
This allows us to get very close to an aftermarket radio RCA signal between radio and amp, and helps to eliminate the distortion coming from the internal (Deck Power) from the OEM radio.
For a regular system, (HK Head unit) we use a line level converter to adjust the AC Voltage (watts) coming from the radio before the amp.
This allows us to get very close to an aftermarket radio RCA signal between radio and amp, and helps to eliminate the distortion coming from the internal (Deck Power) from the OEM radio.