Splitting front channels before amp?
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From: Maryland
Splitting front channels before amp?
I'm thinking about splitting each front out (wires not RCA) off the RK so one wire goes directly to tweets and the other goes to the amp (for each channel). What happens if I do this? Will the tweeter get the preamp power? If so how much power is that? Does this degrade the signal going to the amp?
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The stock head unit is roughly 20w RMS (give or take as I've never seen true specs on it) and wiring it this way will in no way affect the quality of the signal to either the tweeters or the amp.
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From: Maryland
20w RMS to the front? Is that @ 2 ohms or 4ohms?
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I think all the separate tweeters I've seen are 4 ohm. If the pre-amp is 20 watt @ 2 ohm, doesn't that mean that it is 10 watt @ 4 ohm? I think Focals Tweeters are the only ones designed to work at 10 watts and 4 ohms.
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
man you sure like complicating things dontcha! :-)
No, increasing the impedance from 2 ohm to 4 ohm on a 20 watt amp doesn't mean it drops the output power by 1/2 but it will drop it significantly. 1/2 is a rough "estimate". Every amp is different so there are 2 ways to tell what you will see in a 4 ohm load vs a 2 ohm load.
1.) you measure it (the outputs of the amp) with an oscillosope
2.) manufacturer's specs usually tell you this information on a 2 ohm stable amp.
What I've said time and time again on this forum is that you do NOT need to pay (too much) attention to impedance with tweeters because of the frequencies they produce. The way a tweeter works (at the high frequencies it's designed to work at) essentially mitigates any effect it's going to have on total impedance an amp sees.
No, increasing the impedance from 2 ohm to 4 ohm on a 20 watt amp doesn't mean it drops the output power by 1/2 but it will drop it significantly. 1/2 is a rough "estimate". Every amp is different so there are 2 ways to tell what you will see in a 4 ohm load vs a 2 ohm load.
1.) you measure it (the outputs of the amp) with an oscillosope
2.) manufacturer's specs usually tell you this information on a 2 ohm stable amp.
What I've said time and time again on this forum is that you do NOT need to pay (too much) attention to impedance with tweeters because of the frequencies they produce. The way a tweeter works (at the high frequencies it's designed to work at) essentially mitigates any effect it's going to have on total impedance an amp sees.
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I really am sorry but I want to do it right and get the max outta my project. Considering the environment and characteristics of highs, they have the most danger of never getting to my ears. You have stated you are not big on highs and I want to make sure I'm getting enough.Here's where I'm at:
1. I know I am not touching the rears. I'm hoping to wean myself off the TP soon so rear speakers won't even be on the bike. If that changes and I decide I want better rear sound, I'll probably mount an amp under the TP for rears.
2. I know I'm doing the SS 4.520D and know I will bridge it.
3. I know I'm putting MM651's in batwing
4. The lowers will either be MM651's or MM6501's:
a.)MM651's in lowers and Focal tweets in gauge holes, receiving 10-15 (?) watts RMS.
b.)MM6501's mounted so woofer goes in lowers and tweeter is mounted up in gauge holes.
Will any of the highs get to me if I put MM651's in the lowers?
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Extreme HDF Member
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From: East of the Sun, West of the Moon
I really am sorry but I want to do it right and get the max outta my project. Considering the environment and characteristics of highs, they have the most danger of never getting to my ears. You have stated you are not big on highs and I want to make sure I'm getting enough.Here's where I'm at:
1. I know I am not touching the rears. I'm hoping to wean myself off the TP soon so rear speakers won't even be on the bike. If that changes and I decide I want better rear sound, I'll probably mount an amp under the TP for rears.
2. I know I'm doing the SS 4.520D and know I will bridge it.
3. I know I'm putting MM651's in batwing
4. The lowers will either be MM651's or MM6501's:
a.)MM651's in lowers and Focal tweets in gauge holes, receiving 10-15 (?) watts RMS.
b.)MM6501's mounted so woofer goes in lowers and tweeter is mounted up in gauge holes.
Will any of the highs get to me if I put MM651's in the lowers?
so are you planning on wiring the fairing and lower speakers in series?
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
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From: Maryland
Thread Starter
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 3,524
Likes: 34
From: Maryland
4. The lowers will either be MM651's or MM6501's:
a.)MM651's in lowers and Focal tweets in gauge holes, receiving 10-15 (?) watts RMS.
b.)MM6501's mounted so woofer goes in lowers and tweeter is mounted up in gauge holes.
Will any of the highs get to me if I put MM651's in the lowers?
a.)MM651's in lowers and Focal tweets in gauge holes, receiving 10-15 (?) watts RMS.
b.)MM6501's mounted so woofer goes in lowers and tweeter is mounted up in gauge holes.
Will any of the highs get to me if I put MM651's in the lowers?
If I am determined to replace two gauges with tweeters is it better to use HK pre-amped Focals? Or is better to use the amplified component tweets from MM6501's?
I'm doubting wind is going to allow much highs to get to me from lowers when using MM651's at speed. If highs are useless from MM651's in lowers at speed I might as well do the MM6501's down there. If highs will get to me from MM651's in lowers (at speed) then I will install pre-amped Focals in gauge holes.
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