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Rebuild the carburetor, it's time. Also, change the intake manifold seals, it's way past time. Then, you can do a proper idle adjustment. Anything else is just a bandage.
When you say adjust the idle, you are adjusting the idle speed right, not the idle mixture? No adjustments on a carb, with the exception of the idle speed, should be made unless the bike is hot/up to normal temp. A 15-20 mile ride should be enough. If it still wont idle after that, turn the idle speed up a bit to keep it running and set the idle mixture then re adjust the idle speed. Theres plenty of videos on youtube on how to do that. Altitude wouldnt be a factor here (not enough change) but temp/humidity could play a part of the idle mixture if different. It could also use a good cleaning too due to age. While Id normally recommend a Mikuni 42 if youre looking to change, tuning those can be overwhelming if you arent a wrench and in this case isnt "needed" so Id agree with others in staying with the CV for now, just check the diaphragm or rebuild altogether.
I'm with the guys who are saying pull the carb and give it a once over.
I also agree with changing the intake seals even if just on principle. They are old, can get brittle with time and leak air causing the symptom you describe. Just do a little reading first because there is a little positioning of the manifold and carb knowledge that is needed when replacing. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of. Toss the old manifold bolts and install new 12 point 5/16-18 x 3/4" bolts. Will make your life easier.
The carb really does not need a ton of parts. Watch some youtube videos on rebuilding and make notes. Keep it mostly stock for now. Of course clean it. All holes and passages are suspect. Especially if bike has sat with ethanol fuel for a while. Look for worn needle and worn needle seat, check specs like float height and inspect float needle. The accelerator pump diaphragm is a common replacement part but watch some videos and proceed with caution so you don't lose small parts. The needle jet is commonly installed upside down by mistake so take some pics. Also the idle mix screw has a really small rubber O-ring that often stays stuck in the bore. It is in there and you need to fish it out.
Point is, give it a once over. It is due and can't hurt. Just takes a little time. Do you have a repair manual for this bike? If not, get one. A aftermarket manual download is better than nothing but the factory manual is hard to beat.
I'm with the guys who are saying pull the carb and give it a once over.
I also agree with changing the intake seals even if just on principle. They are old, can get brittle with time and leak air causing the symptom you describe. Just do a little reading first because there is a little positioning of the manifold and carb knowledge that is needed when replacing. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of. Toss the old manifold bolts and install new 12 point 5/16-18 x 3/4" bolts. Will make your life easier.
The carb really does not need a ton of parts. Watch some youtube videos on rebuilding and make notes. Keep it mostly stock for now. Of course clean it. All holes and passages are suspect. Especially if bike has sat with ethanol fuel for a while. Look for worn needle and worn needle seat, check specs like float height and inspect float needle. The accelerator pump diaphragm is a common replacement part but watch some videos and proceed with caution so you don't lose small parts. The needle jet is commonly installed upside down by mistake so take some pics. Also the idle mix screw has a really small rubber O-ring that often stays stuck in the bore. It is in there and you need to fish it out.
Point is, give it a once over. It is due and can't hurt. Just takes a little time. Do you have a repair manual for this bike? If not, get one. A aftermarket manual download is better than nothing but the factory manual is hard to beat.
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