Anyone have one of these? I was thinking about getting one but was looking for some feed back on them first. I was planning on using it on my rear fender with some Scratch-X. The rear fender on my bike is all scratched up and so is the area around the gas cap. I've tried scratch-x by hand but with poor results, though maybe a polisher would do the trick.

 

PC with 4 inch pads will work in a lot of places but not all. I would use a machine polish instead of ScratchX. Machine polishes and hand polishes break down differently.

 

Unless you have a lot of experience with a machine I would recommend against it. I sure wouldn't learn on my Harley. You can literally burn the paint and/or buff right through it regardless of what Porter Cable says of the machine.

I used to be a painter in a body shop and I wouldn't buff my Harley. I have the tools and I'm good at it. I'd do it by hand. There are just too many tight spots to catch, and too many small areas that need to be done by hand anyway.

You may simply need a coarser rubbing compound (machine type compound)to cut the scratches first before you wash it well and then switch to a polishing compound.

If that doesn't works and if you can tell for a fact that the scratches aren't through the clearcoat, you could wet sand them with 2000 grit wet or dry sand paper and then rub them out.

Astore that sells automotive paint supplies would know exactly what rubbing/polishing compounds to use to rub them out. I have my favorites but ask around.

You need a rubbing compound to get the tiny scratches out that are left by the 2000 grit, and then a polishing compound to get the fine linesout from the rubbing compound.

Frankly I think you'd be better off paying someone to do it. If you do it yourself you might consider buying one of the rubber pads the paint store will have as a backer for your sandpaper. The pads are maybe the size of a dollar bill, about 1/4 inch thick and have holes in them about the size of a dime.They aren't expensive.

You sand in a cross-hatch manner, not in circles nor in continuous straight lines. In other words you sand straight linesin one direction and then switch to a direction that is across the first direction. That keeps you from putting flat spots in the rounded tank. Use lots of clean water in a bucket to keep rinsing the sandpaper, and a clean cloth to keep washing the area you are sanding. Wipe it dry regularly and move your eyes around in the light to tell when you've gotten to the bottom of the scratches.

Wash everything before switching to a finer grit of anything. You don't want contamination from the prior coarse grit or you'll have scratches. Change water and rags. Old T shirts make good rags if they don't have printing on them. You can cut the printing (silk screen stuff) out of there of course.

Do nothing in circles. Always sand and polish in straight lines.

Remember, since we can't see that tank, you run some risk that by the time you get to the bottom of the scratches you may have worn your paint out or have gone clear through it. Be careful, go slowly, and see how much it takes to get rid of the scratches a little at a time.

If they were bad enough, I'd wet sand them and put on a couple more coats of clear. Then I'd sand and buff that. That's why I'm a bit worried here. I can't see the scratches.

Good luck.

 

The scratches aren't bad enough for a "color sand" a "buff", that I would definitely leave to the pro's I think a random orbital with some type of machine cuts compound will do the trick. Anyone have a favoritecompound?I was also planning on using the Porter Cable on my trucks, boat, hot rod, I was wondering if it as a well built tool of if there is something better thats moderately priced.

 

I have had that buffer for years. I think it is well built & easy to use. Lot's of different pads are available for it depending on what you are trying to do.

 

I have a Porter Cable orbital buffer. I think it's very well made. It's not supposed to let you burn your paint. The orbital motion is very subtle...it almost looks like there is no orbital motion at all. I've used it only for buffing my truck hood, with good results. I don't do this kind of work for a living, and I don't claim to be good at it. I've done some research on what to do in scenarios like yours, and from what I've read, I'd listen to what JBaker421 is saying. It sounds like he knows what he's talking about.

 

Hi, There's a very real difference between burning paint and wearing through it (wearing it out.)

Burning is where you stay in one place too long and it heats up and literally burns and ruins the paint.

Wearing it out/wearing through it is something you can do without burning. If you apply the fine abrasive polishes enough, even by hand, eventually you will wear right through the finish.

The orbital action is far less likely to burn than a regular buffer but it can happen especially with a coarser grit polish.

Follow directions, keep it moving and you should be fine. You can tell when enough is enough.

I stand pat, but it's just my $.02 and worth even less. I'd never use a buffer on my Harley. There are too many small areas to get by hand anyway and the whole area is small compared to a car. I'd do it all by hand in straight lines to avoid swirl marks. I'd be careful and love every minute of it.

I'd start with the oldest least valuable vehicle I had to learn about that buffer. If you don't have an old rig, then do your mother-in-laws, lol.

Please just remember that all polishes, when called that (that I've seen) are abrasives. They can do damage even by hand so follow directions and be careful until you know what the polish will act like.

Don't misunderstand please. The very best painters color-sand and then buff their brand new show pieces. They just know how and have tons of practice.

So, just sneak up on it a little. Don't dive inhard and fastwhere you can't back up. Test an area that's a bit out of sight.

Be extremely careful on edges like your door edges, hood edges - all edges. The buffer will ride onto those and the pressure per square inch when it passes on an edge is tremendous. The bonnet will also ride down into the cracks around the hood, gas door, trunk lip, etc. etc. It can really wear and burn in a hurry.

Painters often put masking tape along/over those seams (looks like maybe they are trying to seal the doors, etc.) to protectthem. Then they remove the tape andrub those edgesout by hand when through with the buffer.

Good luck,

JB

 

Someone here thinks a PC will burn paint but then recommends rubbing compounds???? Good grief.

 

Definitely go with the porter cable polisher. I don't own the 7424 myself, but have been using a friend's for a while. Much easier and better results than by hand. If your scratches are that bad, you might need to use something more abrasive. Also, make sure you use the right kind of foam pad, probably a heavy cut pad in your case.

 

Yea3dog I had to chuckle myself