Stalling at stop
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 56
Likes: 1
From: San Diego
I didn't get it wet, doesn't ever rain here in socal haha. So I disconnected the pcv, ran like absolute crap BUT it didn't stall. So I plugged it in and put the stock map in, ran OK. Went down through maps close to my setup, still has yet to stall but a few of them made her run REALLY hot. So I called the power commander guys. He suggested I actually advance the timing about 3 degrees and add fuel in the 0 zone from 2000 rpms to redline.
I feel kinda uneasy about that just because this is my only vehicle, I can't afford to destroy it but I don't want to drive around backfiring and stalling at stops.
I feel kinda uneasy about that just because this is my only vehicle, I can't afford to destroy it but I don't want to drive around backfiring and stalling at stops.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,749
Likes: 16
From: sand mountain Alabama
Does it pop and die or blow back through the breather and then die?
Or does it just die?
There were some problems that started in 2012 on some of the touring bikes and some of the smaller bikes.
Or does it just die?
There were some problems that started in 2012 on some of the touring bikes and some of the smaller bikes.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 4,749
Likes: 16
From: sand mountain Alabama
I think it is what I was asking all the questions.
My street glide does it. Done a lot, catless headers, pcv w/at. Map was good and no popping, clean sound. Then not so much later it started again, just not as bad.
Put it on dyno jets new dyno's. PCV was good, tuned it, got a good response from the tune. Disconnected the AT.
Run better than it ever had. Not so much longer some popping started, now every once and a while when down shifting, and at limes when I change gears.
Check everything on the exhaust and FI and intake.
I think it is one of those things. At first it was scary, did it in front of a big truck. It doesn't die now but it will pop at times. I just back off the throttle then give it gas all in a couple of seconds.
My street glide does it. Done a lot, catless headers, pcv w/at. Map was good and no popping, clean sound. Then not so much later it started again, just not as bad.
Put it on dyno jets new dyno's. PCV was good, tuned it, got a good response from the tune. Disconnected the AT.
Run better than it ever had. Not so much longer some popping started, now every once and a while when down shifting, and at limes when I change gears.
Check everything on the exhaust and FI and intake.
I think it is one of those things. At first it was scary, did it in front of a big truck. It doesn't die now but it will pop at times. I just back off the throttle then give it gas all in a couple of seconds.
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Joined: Jul 2013
Posts: 56
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From: San Diego
I hear ya. I think I'm going to play with the timing this weekend, get deeper into this tuner and see what happens. Thanks for all the help guys, these forums have again saved my bacon.
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 2,664
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From: Indiana, USA
Backfire through the breather indicates a Lean condition and will require additional fuel somewhere in your MAP
Backfire through the exhaust indicates a rich condition and will require reducing fuel somewher in your MAP
If it is stalling I would think you have fouled plugs, before making any radical changes you should install a fresh set of plugs, then play with the MAP because changes evaluated with fouled plugs will not give you accurate feedback. If you cannot afford a new set of plugs, take them out, inspect for black soot, spray with carb cleaner and brush with an old toothbrush. Blow them off and put them back in. Soot is carbon, spark can travel along the carbo and the carbomn track can take your spark to ground at the base of the plug if it is easier than jumping the plug gap.
Backfire through the exhaust indicates a rich condition and will require reducing fuel somewher in your MAP
If it is stalling I would think you have fouled plugs, before making any radical changes you should install a fresh set of plugs, then play with the MAP because changes evaluated with fouled plugs will not give you accurate feedback. If you cannot afford a new set of plugs, take them out, inspect for black soot, spray with carb cleaner and brush with an old toothbrush. Blow them off and put them back in. Soot is carbon, spark can travel along the carbo and the carbomn track can take your spark to ground at the base of the plug if it is easier than jumping the plug gap.
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