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The stock comp is fine and rotor is welded as part of the comp, but once you start upgrading the power on your ride the stock is not strong enough to hand the power and collapses to much, this the need for THE ONLY OPTION AS OF NOW, which is the Screamin eagle comp. When the se comp is purchased a rotor has to be bought as well. This setup is about $400 from HD.....I paid a bit less from New Castle HD.
Solids have no give to cushion the force when you hammer the throttle, putting a lot of stress on the bottom end. I would not even count that as an option unless i was strictly drag racing the bike. Some would disagree, but I'm not rich and wouldn't gamble my $5k build on it. I doubt the bottom end would ever survive my beatings!
My stock clutch is still holding fine so I have been researching this for F$@k knows for how long. 5 speed comps never had these oiling issues and don't matter what fluid is used where as SE Comps need synthetic....many say that now matter the fluid the comp will break, but not using synthetic will 100% speed the process up REAL FAST and ATF primary fluid will destroy it within 5k miles (more like 2k miles or less).
Last edited by HD Bobber; Nov 26, 2014 at 09:19 PM.
At the rate this project is going should be ready by the end of the year, next month sometime. Just have to get enough test miles on it to make sure we are not missing anything, we know the demand we just don't want to rush it.
Sweet! I know you probably do not want to reveal too many details but any tidbits are appreciated... OK for bigger builds? Any fluid type requirements? Any special tools other than the primary locking bar, and torque wrench(s)?
I'm still curious as to what causes the rusty red fretting seen in the SE comps,
Could it be simply low cost/low quality material? Or because they are dis-similar metals doing an electrolisis kind of reaction? Or just a poor enough fit to wear quickly? This is what I saw in mine after ONLY 1500 miles. It is very well lubed by the Compensaver oiler tray. I had even wiped it with a rag, Then saw the stains on the rag.
Having shavings in the primary is pretty normal. When I dump my primary fluid I have some on the magnet and my first change after the initial install of the SE comp had a lot of shavings on the magnet....probably since it was brand new and everything was setting into place.
EDIT:I just saw you have 1,500 miles on you comp.
Yours is still fairly new I would think its ok, but with few more thousand miles that shouldn't be like that. The discoloration is probably the fluid that was maybe running hot.
What fluid are u using?
Last edited by HD Bobber; Nov 29, 2014 at 04:37 PM.
At the rate this project is going should be ready by the end of the year, next month sometime. Just have to get enough test miles on it to make sure we are not missing anything, we know the demand we just don't want to rush it.
Given that most other attempts have failed I think that's a good plan. So far I'm way more likely to "experiment" with the Baker as soon as its available than the DH or another SE. Sign me up when they are ready
I've been using Castrol POWER RS V-TWIN4T 20W-50 Full Synthetic for a couple years now.Good stuff, Made for Harley Davidsons. I changed the primary fluid at 500 miles to have a look inside at the ramps and spokes on the new comp and see how well the Compensaver was doing at lubricating them, And to check the wear in on the Hayden tensioner. The oil did have that greyish tint you'd expect with a new comp but both magnets were pretty clean. I'd never heard of, Or seen that red fretting until the SE comps came out. The stock comp on my '10 SG was the last year of the old style, The only problem with them was the spring wearing out. Making that loud WHACK at starting. It only lasted 20k miles.I didn't want it tearing up the starter.
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