124" winter build...
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
Just out of curiosity, if Kirby sees this, or Monster, maybe you can answer this based on talking to him about this, why does he suggest the heat cycling for break-in as opposed to this one...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
Banned
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 3,569
Likes: 624
From: deland,florida
Just out of curiosity, if Kirby sees this, or Monster, maybe you can answer this based on talking to him about this, why does he suggest the heat cycling for break-in as opposed to this one...
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
ive always heat cycled new motors for 35+ years,i beleave it helps in seating rings
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
"What about "heat cycling" the engine ??
There is no need to "heat cycle" a new engine. The term "heat cycle" comes from the idea that the new engine components are being "heat treated" as the engine is run. Heat treating the metal parts is a very different process, and it's already done at the factory before the engines are assembled. The temperatures required for heat treating are much higher than an engine will ever reach during operation.
The idea of breaking the engine in using "heat cycles" is a myth that came from the misunderstanding of the concept of "heat treating".
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 57
From: N Texas
A lot of different/conflicting methods for getting a new engine going, could fill up a few books I'm sure. Just got to do a bunch of reading and decide for yourself, kinda like adjustible prs vs solid.
Cruiser
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 137
Likes: 0
From: Michigan
I hear you on that. I've followed the method in the link I posted for a lot of ATV motors with great results, I just was curious is all.
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Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
I pulled the primary cover today to sand down the derby cover screw bosses to gain some clearance on the clutch. I just hit it with a flapper wheel a few times and I was able to get .060"+ between the bosses and the studs on the pressure plate (with the lever pulled). I feel way more comfortable with that, I only had .006" before. I didn't want to go crazy and sand all the way through the bosses and end up having it leak out the derby cover bolts
While I had the cover off I noticed the chain had relaxed a bit, I may have been in between teeth on the baker adjuster, or I checked it on the tight spot on the chain. I'll roll it around this time and check it in a few spots. That was fore sure what was making noise on the first startup, you can see little grooves in the cover. I also noticed there's a little bit of end play at the thrust washer on the clutch hub, just enough to make a little rattle when you pull in and out. It might be normal but I'm going to call bandit in the morning to double check. I pulled the clutch off to double check all my work and everything looks fine to me, and no movement on the mainshaft
While I had the cover off I noticed the chain had relaxed a bit, I may have been in between teeth on the baker adjuster, or I checked it on the tight spot on the chain. I'll roll it around this time and check it in a few spots. That was fore sure what was making noise on the first startup, you can see little grooves in the cover. I also noticed there's a little bit of end play at the thrust washer on the clutch hub, just enough to make a little rattle when you pull in and out. It might be normal but I'm going to call bandit in the morning to double check. I pulled the clutch off to double check all my work and everything looks fine to me, and no movement on the mainshaft
Last edited by monster715; Mar 9, 2015 at 11:56 PM.
