2012 charging issue
2012 charging issue
To start off, I've checked the stator to ground and while running and it checks good. The battery before start up is 12.8, after start up it's around 14.1, so I know it's not the stator an I don think it's the regulator unless maybe it's a bad diode that I don't know how to shoot on this bike. I've also checked for it grounding out by doing the single filament bulb in the socket from the positive battery terminal to the disconnected positive lead and the light stays off.
I leave the bike on a tender all night long. In the morning the tender says the battery is good to go, it's fully charged, but hitting the starter says otherwise. It like a dead battery (which I replace yesterday) in the morning until I ride to work, shut it off and restart it. It starts right up like the battery was charge after a 10 mile ride. When I go out for lunch 3-4 hours later it struggles again to start. After the ride home I shut it off and fire it right back up no problem then repeat again the next morning. I've tried 2 battery tenders and one I know for a fact one works because it's hooked up to my fxr and that thing fires right up even though I barely ride the thing.
The only thing I can think of is a bad diode in the regulator but I don't want to shotgun a 120 dollar part and it not be it.
Anyone know which wires I need to shoot on a 2012 to see if it's a bad diode?
I leave the bike on a tender all night long. In the morning the tender says the battery is good to go, it's fully charged, but hitting the starter says otherwise. It like a dead battery (which I replace yesterday) in the morning until I ride to work, shut it off and restart it. It starts right up like the battery was charge after a 10 mile ride. When I go out for lunch 3-4 hours later it struggles again to start. After the ride home I shut it off and fire it right back up no problem then repeat again the next morning. I've tried 2 battery tenders and one I know for a fact one works because it's hooked up to my fxr and that thing fires right up even though I barely ride the thing.
The only thing I can think of is a bad diode in the regulator but I don't want to shotgun a 120 dollar part and it not be it.
Anyone know which wires I need to shoot on a 2012 to see if it's a bad diode?
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 157
Likes: 1
From: San Jose California
Your charging system is fine...
You should clean the battery terminals first, then check the positive cable leading to the starter for bad crimps. If that all checks out, load-test the battery. Battery can show good voltage, yet not put out the *current* that the starter needs.
You should clean the battery terminals first, then check the positive cable leading to the starter for bad crimps. If that all checks out, load-test the battery. Battery can show good voltage, yet not put out the *current* that the starter needs.
Your charging system is fine... You should clean the battery terminals first, then check the positive cable leading to the starter for bad crimps. If that all checks out, load-test the battery. Battery can show good voltage, yet not put out the *current* that the starter needs.
Rayvan, the battery terminals are really clean, there are no crimps in the positive lead going to the starter, I have the battery box off and I'm looking at it now and the battery is brand new. I just bought it yesterday.
Road Captain
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 600
Likes: 10
From: Rochester, NY
A few questions:
What temperature is it outside when you are experiencing this issue?
Is there visible moisture on the bike when you start it?
What type of battery do you have?
The colder it is the less cranking amps you'll have to start the engine. This is especially true if you have a lithium-ion battery. They almost never work in the cold. Also excessive moisture can have a negative effect on electrical connections.
What temperature is it outside when you are experiencing this issue?
Is there visible moisture on the bike when you start it?
What type of battery do you have?
The colder it is the less cranking amps you'll have to start the engine. This is especially true if you have a lithium-ion battery. They almost never work in the cold. Also excessive moisture can have a negative effect on electrical connections.
Elite HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 3,789
Likes: 277
From: Hawkeye state
If it is starting when engine is closer to operating temp but not when engine is cold and has sat overnight let's say, then it sounds like the starter is weak. Can't handle the load on cold engine. Leave the tender off after full charge for the night. If battery is 12.5+ then its not discharging. Doesn't rule out lack of cold crank amps. What brand battery?
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A few questions: What temperature is it outside when you are experiencing this issue? Is there visible moisture on the bike when you start it? What type of battery do you have? The colder it is the less cranking amps you'll have to start the engine. This is especially true if you have a lithium-ion battery. They almost never work in the cold. Also excessive moisture can have a negative effect on electrical connections.
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Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
Harley Davidson part number 65989-97C, battery, $129 retail at any dealer.
You have had a nightmare since you put in the aftermarket battery you bought and yet still had to go get another one...which still may or may not work...
How much did you save?
You have had a nightmare since you put in the aftermarket battery you bought and yet still had to go get another one...which still may or may not work...
How much did you save?
My dealer wanted 150, this megaboost was 115, but for what they said it's the same specs for both batteries. Who knows though, it's too late now.