106" build results
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 837
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From: Wyoming
106" build results
The build was done a few weeks ago but between the ice on the roads and my hand recovering from surgery more slowly than I'd have liked, I only got to pick her up last Saturday. I put 500 miles on as quickly as my work schedule allowed, and 7 days later (two days ago), I took her in for tuning. Rudy and Kevin spent well over three hours with her on the dyno and this is the result:
I was expecting horse power and torque to be more equal because I did not change the cam from when it was 95", and at 95" hp and tq were within 1 of each other. I suspect the larger increase in torque results from the 4 1/2" stroker S&S flywheels vs. the 3 3/8" bore (i.e., undersquare).
She was fun before but she is even funer-er now. You really have to hold on tight... literally.
Perhaps most importantly, with the S&S flywheels, Timken left bearing, chain final drive, etc., she is a lot sturdier and is going to be able to handle the turbo charger when/if I get around to adding one.
I was expecting horse power and torque to be more equal because I did not change the cam from when it was 95", and at 95" hp and tq were within 1 of each other. I suspect the larger increase in torque results from the 4 1/2" stroker S&S flywheels vs. the 3 3/8" bore (i.e., undersquare).
She was fun before but she is even funer-er now. You really have to hold on tight... literally.
Perhaps most importantly, with the S&S flywheels, Timken left bearing, chain final drive, etc., she is a lot sturdier and is going to be able to handle the turbo charger when/if I get around to adding one.
Last edited by jmb79; Jan 26, 2015 at 04:28 PM.
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 854
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From: CT
The extra torque comes from the displacement. It was undersquare with the 95" too, but more cubes = more torque regardless of how you get the cubes. Keeping the same cam but adding displacement will increase torque more than hp. Looks pretty good but I still would like to see what could be had with the thunderheader adjusted. Do you know what gear the run was in?
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2013
Posts: 837
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From: Wyoming
Thanks all.
The hand is coming along well. I've cheated a bit by installing a Burly Easy Clutch, which was kindly recommended by another forum member. It works and while I've been able to get the rear tire to break loose pretty easily, the new clutch holds strong.
The guys who tuned it are really good. I was surprised they were not familiar with the Thunderheader baffle modification (hence my thread a few days ago asking about the tab bending process). T-headers aren't nearly as common in this part of the country than, for example, California. As they were a reluctant to try it, I did not want to be a guinea pig.
It was a fourth gear run. I've seen that question raised before but I've never understood how the chosen gear affects the sheet. Can you enlighten me on that?
monster715, I can't wait to see how your 124" turns out. Getting any closer?
The hand is coming along well. I've cheated a bit by installing a Burly Easy Clutch, which was kindly recommended by another forum member. It works and while I've been able to get the rear tire to break loose pretty easily, the new clutch holds strong.
The guys who tuned it are really good. I was surprised they were not familiar with the Thunderheader baffle modification (hence my thread a few days ago asking about the tab bending process). T-headers aren't nearly as common in this part of the country than, for example, California. As they were a reluctant to try it, I did not want to be a guinea pig.
It was a fourth gear run. I've seen that question raised before but I've never understood how the chosen gear affects the sheet. Can you enlighten me on that?
monster715, I can't wait to see how your 124" turns out. Getting any closer?
Last edited by jmb79; Jan 26, 2015 at 08:04 PM.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 1,718
Likes: 15
From: Bay area, CA
Eh... I guess so, just seems like it's been forever since I've ridden the dyna. I miss her haha. Congrats on your build man, great lookin bike too
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Road Master
Joined: Aug 2012
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From: CT
The most accurate gear to run would be the 1:1 ratio, so the transmission's gearing doesn't affect the output. In a 5spd bike 1:1 is 5th gear, 6spd bike it's 6th gear. Hp could be more or less, usually depends on the build, but torque is almost always higher in the 1:1 gear. So you'd have a couple more ft lbs with a 5th run. Some shops refuse to run in high gear for whatever reason.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2010
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From: Illinois
The most accurate gear to run would be the 1:1 ratio, so the transmission's gearing doesn't affect the output. In a 5spd bike 1:1 is 5th gear, 6spd bike it's 6th gear. Hp could be more or less, usually depends on the build, but torque is almost always higher in the 1:1 gear. So you'd have a couple more ft lbs with a 5th run. Some shops refuse to run in high gear for whatever reason.
Main reason for not doing a final gear run are the speeds that are hit....not sure what the hell can happen if it's strapped down (I really didn't ask), but that's what I was told.