Engine Light & Speedometer Needle issues
you can get the code by following a procedure on the speedometer, look it up on youtube or maybe a service manual, you just hold the button while turning on the ignition and follow a procedure to scroll though the codes, and you can even clear them yourself, atleast this is how it was on my 06 sportster.
I have no idea what would fix it, could be a loose connection somewhere in power or signal wire, maybe something with the speedometer unit, but I wouldn't bother fixing it if it only occurs once a month, however if you want3ed to install a speedo/tach combo anyway I think autometer makes one, atleast they do for my 03 wide glide.
Last edited by LunaticFringe; Feb 8, 2015 at 10:41 AM.
The greater the amount of information provided the better the answer you may get.
It would seem you have:
1999 Dyna Wide Glide that you have owned for under two years.
This is a carb. model.
We have no idea of miles, condition, if bike is stock or if something was added to the bike after purchase.
We have no maintenance history during your ownership.
At some point in Sept. 2014 the check engine light came on after an oil change.
Not really sure which oil was changed..engine ? transmission? primary?
You observed some odometer flashing and check engine light coming on and off.
Battery cables disconnected and code was erased....no more light.
A few weeks ago similar repeats but you have a needle drop reported in addition to original light issue.
This is a shot in the dark but are your battery cables tight at the 4 locations?....remember each battery cable has two ends.
Did someone remove the CRANK SHAFT position sensor (located on engine near head of oil filter). Reason: some folks remove the one bolt holding that sensor in order to get better access at filter removal. A loose CRANK SHAFT position sensor would cause strange needle jumps and a momentary loss of power.....a dirty speed sensor at the transmission would cause the needle not to read or misread speed repeatedly.
If i was a gambler i would guess it was the loose cables and crank shaft sensor was loose near filter or at the wire connector at the bottom of frame.
Please return after reviewing the above so we can gain some knowledge.
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Mine had failed and was letting AC voltage wreak havoc through the electrical system. You may want to check the ground on the regulator, check the voltage with bike running, also check the AC voltage coming out of the stator.
If you need a new reg, buy the Cycle Electric one, well built and is a series design, much better than the shunt type OEM.
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