Just as a visual reference for someone who has given their clutch cable that one final torque at the outer trans cover with the 9/16 wrench only to have the cable break off flush or maybe if you are chasing down an oil leak at the end of your clutch cable and you suspect that a new o-ring might be your solution.

*** It's true that if you put a 2x6 (or something similar) under your front and rear tire and lean it over on the kick stand, you'll probably only lose a small dribble of transmission fluid when removing the trans side cover. If you don't have a motorcycle jack to help you get the bike off of the ground, then you'll have to get a little creative ***

Always loosen the cable at the trans cover (9/16) before starting (lightly break loose). The cable breaking off at the trans cover can also happen when holding the cover in your hand and you are struggling with removing the snap ring from your clutch ramp or trying to remove the cable end from your clutch ramp arm (5 speed). If you put any twisting/sideways force on the cable while installed in the housing, there is a good chance that the threaded end will snap off.

If you find yourself in this situation, the broken piece in the trans housing is more than likely loose. First of all, cut the ball off of the end of the cable and separate the cable and cover. Remove the broken piece in the same direction as if you were removing the cable. Do not turn it further into the hole. Do not grab the threads that are showing on the inside of the cover with a pair of pliers. I've had good luck by sticking a small flat head or phillips screwdriver in the top of the hole and turning it out. A small easy out would definitely grab it.

If you are not in a hurry, take it off at the lever, undo your clutch cable clamps, remove the whole unit as one piece and then work on it. Take your time and don't cross thread the cable into the housing. LEAVE THE CABLE BARELY LOOSE AT THE TRANS COVER. Then before installing the cover on the bike, route the cable back where is came from. connect it back to the lever and make sure the middle adjuster is turned in to allow plenty of slack.

Install the cover and then give the cable a final firm snugging with the 9/16 wrench. The o ring will seal it and there is not any need to torque on it.

Anyways, that's kind of my approach but everyone has there own variation.

*** I have had the MRC HD-0001 Clutch Effort Reduction Kit installed in my last 2 bikes and it made my riding experience much more enjoyable. So I can personally give the extra thumbs up for this product. Currently using on a 2001 FXDL. Pics attached a few posts down. ***

 

Good post. File tang works well as poor boy easy-out too.

 

Excellent heads up, thanks.

 

Since you're in there to replace the cable, you might as well install an "EZ-pull" arm and ramp. Makes the clutch easier to pull, a wider "friction Zone", and it's easier on the cable.
My first cable snapped @ 60,000. My second snapped @ 125,000. I'm on my 3rd cable now. Sure wish I would have installed the EZ pull years ago. Might still be on the original cable!

 

Nice post...the pictures tell the story. BTW- I do the same thing by setting bolts in cardboard (or styrofoam) to maintain the pattern. Adding the torque value is even better.

 

Just my .2$ but wether your changing your cable because it snapped or just over stretched, or if you want to install the EZ pull clutch mechanism you would always start by removing the cable from the lever, or at the very least have the adjuster nut all the way loose because you will undoubtedly need to re-adjust as the last step in the process. Once the adjustment is loose there is no tension left to cause damage. Then I remove the clips and lay the cable flat on the ground.

I did however end up with the same result you show in your first pic by accidentally over-tightening the 9/16th bolt that goes into the bottom of the cover.

 

Since a few people have mentioned installing an EZ Pull / Clutch Effort reducing type of mechanism while everything is apart, I have one in mine.

*** I have had the MRC HD-0001 Clutch Effort Reduction Kit installed in my last 2 bikes and it made my riding experience much more enjoyable. So I can personally give the extra thumbs up for this product. Currently using on a 2001 FXDL. ***

The ball bearings are larger on the MRC HD-0001 as well as the ramps. Pics attached for a comparison.

I had a post 2-3 years ago and hopefully this is the link:

https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-few-pics.html

 

Would using the E-Z Pull compromise a SE clutch spring. Not a bad idea. Who did you get this E-Z Pull kit from? TIA.

 

As of 2.23.2015, I see a few MRC HD-0001's listed on ebay from a Harley Dealer. They randomly show up for sale. The website suggests that you find a local HD dealer or aftermarket shop that will order one for you. Beware of buying one on ebay if the package is taped or stapled back together. Prices vary from $80-$120.

*** Please note that MRC.Japan will be stamped on at least one of the halves and you may also see the Patent #. Obviously, the part is made in Japan. ***

 

sorry to hijack, but to answer senior the ez pull has no effect until the clutch lever is depressed. The ez is just an added bit of leverage to alleviate diaphram spring pressure making it easier on the left hand.