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The belt to chain drive conversion thread

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Old Jun 5, 2015 | 08:13 AM
  #61  
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FYI, Honda makes the best chain oil. Glad I don't have to clean that crap off anymore..
 
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 04:12 PM
  #62  
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Default message from parts dealer "bung king" just an fyi

.500 total offset front sprocket (smallest offset available for the 6 speed) and when using our rear sprocket on the 06-13 models it would take a 1/2" sprocket/pulley spacer, we have found they made some changes in 2014 and the 2014 and up models have been needing a larger rear pulley spacer to get them in line, we have been using the 7/8" thick pulley spacer for the 14 and up dynas to get everything in line. Hope this helps.
 
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 04:32 PM
  #63  
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Other members on this thread with much earlier models (2006 etc.) have stated they also needed an .875" rear spacer with the .500" offset front sprocket with a flat sprocket ... thus I don't believe this is completely a "2014 + issue", but glad to know the online vendor is currently reviewing the matter.

The purpose of this thread was to determine fact of what works and what doesn't, and the only people here that posted fact of what worked on their bikes all stated they used a .875" spacer on their 2006+ bike, my bike included.

Seeing as how the rear axle spacers, rear wheel width and diameter, pulley thickness and part number (except 2006 pulley teeth count) have not changed since 2006 , I cannot imagine what has "changed" since 2014 ?


Maybe I'm missing something?

------
 
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Old Jul 16, 2015 | 08:12 PM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by what_fear
.

.500 total offset front sprocket (smallest offset available for the 6 speed) and when using our rear sprocket on the 06-13 models it would take a 1/2" sprocket/pulley spacer, we have found they made some changes in 2014 and the 2014 and up models have been needing a larger rear pulley spacer to get them in line, we have been using the 7/8" thick pulley spacer for the 14 and up dynas to get everything in line. Hope this helps.
.
.
.
your boys at bung king (obviously) need to get educated.

.500 at the front, .875 at the rear - (when using a flat rear sprocket)

006 and on, up to present...........
.
.
.
 
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Old Aug 3, 2015 | 12:04 PM
  #65  
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The trans nut was a pain the ***, didn't mess up any threads though. Cut it down, then chisel off, I am doing another chain drive on Tuesday. On a friends bike.








Bung king slider, .500 24t .875 spacer on rear 55 t flat spricket


It's work, to do this be prepared.
 
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 04:13 PM
  #66  
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Lama, what did your final gear ratio end up at vs. stock?
 

Last edited by VIN1800; Aug 12, 2015 at 06:28 PM.
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Old Aug 12, 2015 | 05:29 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by VIN1800
Lama, what did your final gear ration end up at vs. stock?
Now 2.292 vs stock 2.063
 
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Old Aug 21, 2015 | 09:46 AM
  #68  
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Just my 2 bits of a comment here - good to see this discussion... Just back from a long 5 day ride over rugged coastal mountains and through remote switch-back roads and steep country to the Pacific and westernmost point in NA - cold and foggy and lonely roads, even in August. Almost all two or one lane... My FX is belt and so's the Sporty I rode on this trip. I sweated the belt, worried, the whole time, but in exact proportion to the remoteness, and there's simply no way I'd do this trip with a belt again. Call me old fashioned, or old school, but both scooters are going to chain - the best or nearly best that I can get. The sporty is bad enough to change a belt, but the FX is a real bummer - and out of the question on the side of the road. Next years trip? The FXST evo with a chain!
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 03:47 AM
  #69  
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I work on a bunch of HD's at any given time. To remove the front pulley / sprocket nut I agree it can be a pain and it can give you fits especially on a Monday morning with only 1 cup of coffee.

That being said the method I use generally... and it seems to always work;



1) Leave the final drive of the bike hooked up, rear axle on...belt tensioned.....rear wheel intact.

2) Primary off everything off there. Use your CORRECT mainshaft nut socket (Heartland) on the big nut with a QUALITY (Snap On) 1/2" drive breaker bar attached.

3) Place bike into a corner of your garage, shop... wherever. Front wheel dead ended into a corner.

4) Slide a 4' long pipe over the breaker bar. A floor jack handle works good.

5) Have someone help you by sitting on the bike and pressing on the rear brake pedal...in a pinch...tyrap the rear brake lever down.

6) PUSH the pipe/breaker bar/socket combo DOWNWARDS towards the ground. Not "up" from the rear of the bike.


This will break the mainshaft nut loose no problem.


If the bike is torn down with no rear belt/chain/wheel......then you need to buy the pulley locking tool or wedge a block into the sprocket. Then do all the same with the long cheater pipe and socket/breaker bar.


My $.02


---------------------------------
 
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Old Aug 22, 2015 | 06:37 AM
  #70  
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Thanks Lama! - that procedure makes sense to me, though I might use a little heat - very carefully, and maybe kroil. The "modern" big twins are new to me, though I've taken off some tight stuff in 40+ years as a millwright. But I have a question, well, three questions, about doing the conversion on my FXSTC, a stock 1987 Evo.

What vendor? What kit? What off-sets? Nothing I have found here or online seems to be specific to my scooter. For the '02 sporty it looks easy, but I'd appreciate suggestions about kit and vendor there too.

Thanks, Plate
 
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