Stripped Bolt Help
Intermediate
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
From: Southern California
if you have access to a welder build up the end (if its atleast still flush with the frame or further out) then grab that puppy with vise grips and get it out. worked for me at least 40 times or so.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 2,557
Likes: 235
From: Texas
I approach snafus like this with the idea that it will probably have to be completely reworked and try not to waste too much time with trying to get the seized bolt out. So, if it were me, I would work from the thought that I probably will have to redo the hole, and since you are already off-center with the hole in the bolt, I would first try to drill the bolt enough on the thin side of the bolt to the point where I can try to collapse it inside the hole with a punch or chisel. If you can do that, the bolt should loosen up and come right on out. The trick here is not damaging the tapped hole to the point that it will not hold a new bolt securely. If I cannot do this, I would drill the whole mess out, redrill and retap the hole and insert a helicoil. For me, the entire process is all about inserting the helicoil...if I am lucky enough to get the seized and sheared bolt out without damaging the tapped hole, then that is just a time and work saving bonus.
Good luck and let us know how it goes...
Good luck and let us know how it goes...
Advanced
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 59
Likes: 0
From: California
I approach snafus like this with the idea that it will probably have to be completely reworked and try not to waste too much time with trying to get the seized bolt out. So, if it were me, I would work from the thought that I probably will have to redo the hole, and since you are already off-center with the hole in the bolt, I would first try to drill the bolt enough on the thin side of the bolt to the point where I can try to collapse it inside the hole with a punch or chisel. If you can do that, the bolt should loosen up and come right on out. The trick here is not damaging the tapped hole to the point that it will not hold a new bolt securely. If I cannot do this, I would drill the whole mess out, redrill and retap the hole and insert a helicoil. For me, the entire process is all about inserting the helicoil...if I am lucky enough to get the seized and sheared bolt out without damaging the tapped hole, then that is just a time and work saving bonus.
Good luck and let us know how it goes...
Good luck and let us know how it goes...
Whatever you do, do not...I repeat do not use an EZ Out! You will just end up getting it stuck and/or broken off in the bolt then you will have more of a headache. Don't ask me how I know
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 157,518
Likes: 57,070
From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
Timesert is also another thread repair that is a bit more friendly to the novice
http://www.timesert.com/
http://www.timesert.com/
Elite HDF Member
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 4,130
Likes: 2,133
From: PSL Florida
Weld a nut to it tap with a hammer after you laid a good bead and it has cooled. Then work back and forth. I do this for broken exhaust manifold studs on Ford V8-V10s. Works on studs that are broke flush with the head or somewhat deep in the head.
Thread Starter
|
Road Master
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 864
Likes: 56
From: U.s.
I appreciate the post, however this is an older thread. I found a guy who took out and re tapped for almost nothing.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
