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Hey guys, I just put my version of the DIY Air Ride on my You Tube Channel.
It took me five months to do the project. Should have made it a winter project. I had a lot of setbacks along the way. As you will see in the video.
For you guys that aren't following my Channel, my last video was the Predator front motor mount install.
The reason for me installing air ride. I was having a problem with my Voodoo custom fender bracket hitting the tire when the bike hit bumps and dips in the road. I adjusted the shocks to have less travel but the bracket still hit the tire. So I decided to try the DIY air ride. So I could adjust the height of the fender.
So far I accomplished what I set out to do. The bracket doesn't hit the tire anymore. The ride is a little harsh. But I like a stiffer ride.
The video is long like all my videos. My videos always show the good and the bad of an install so you guys don't have to guess what I did to correct something that went wrong.
First off, "soon" is what I meant to type there. After seeing your reply, I decided to just keep it as "son", figured it put a smile on your face and everyone can use those.
Watched the video, very informative and will be helpful for those that go this route. Question for you, how long is the shock when it is sitting at the height you like it at and how long is it when you have it slammed down? Also, do you have a direct line of sight between the top shock/strut bolt hardware and the lower shock mount hardware? I was wondering because I was thinking the use of a cable the runs on the inboard side of the shock from eyelet to eyelet could be used to limit the upward movement of the shock and allow more air pressure in the shock without actually raising it, also adding to cushion or firmness of the shock.
Something like this, but not so extreme, might have to make it. If it only allowed the shocks to extend to 13", then it would work.
Last edited by blueangel73; Oct 23, 2015 at 06:04 AM.
First off, "soon" is what I meant to type there. After seeing your reply, I decided to just keep it as "son", figured it put a smile on your face and everyone can use those.
Watched the video, very informative and will be helpful for those that go this route. Question for you, how long is the shock when it is sitting at the height you like it at and how long is it when you have it slammed down? Also, do you have a direct line of sight between the top shock/strut bolt hardware and the lower shock mount hardware? I was wondering because I was thinking the use of a cable the runs on the inboard side of the shock from eyelet to eyelet could be used to limit the upward movement of the shock and allow more air pressure in the shock without actually raising it, also adding to cushion or firmness of the shock.
Something like this, but not so extreme, might have to make it. If it only allowed the shocks to extend to 13", then it would work.
Your idea sounded great until I went out and took a look. The body of the shock sticks out more then the eyelets. The cable would rub against the air bag. There is no room on the shock bolts to bring the cable out away from the shock body. Boy, to bad it wont work.
Before I get off the bike I just let the air out. No big deal. That's what the dump valve is for anyway.
Off roaders with huge articulation sometimes use nylon webbing to limit droop. It's light, thin, strong, and has a bit of spring to it.
As far as the dump valve goes, You could wire in a solenoid valve that opens when voltage is cut. Kill ignition = valve opens.
I believe his fender will hit his tire if he lets all of the air out. Wouldn't be a good idea for the fact it would probably cause him to crash if the motor died at interstate speeds.
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