Gas
There is no such thing as the "best" gasoline. In each geographic area EPA regulates the blend. There are about 26 regions in the US. All refined gasolines in those areas are IDENTICAL.
Branding only occurs at the level of the tanker truck. When it is filled the driver adds the additive of the brand that is going to get the load. The additive is detergent. Detergent is already in the gas but the so called top tier brands adds a few parts per million more. I had one trucker that I knew tell me "do you think that I am going to climb on top of that tanker in zero degrees with high winds in the winter?"
The difference is octane. Octane is not even remotely power. It is simply a measurement to identify the gasoline's resistance to ignite. Water mist into the intake is a way to raise octane higher.
The power in gasoline is BTU's. Summer gas is about 115,000 BTU's/gal and winter gas is about 112,000 btu's/gal.
To get the most power the AFR that burns the most of the charge during the power stroke. The higher the octane the slower the burn so more of the unburned gas goes out the exhaust.
One horse power is just under 3,000 BTU's. So lower octane burns more completely and produce more power during the power stroke. Burning more means more heat which can lead to detonation. However with a 12.8 to 1 AFR a cooler incoming charge and more complete burn as it is the easiest AFR to ignite.
The E10 comes into play with an advantage. Yes the alcohol has less BTU's than the gas it replaces. But it also evaporates faster and helps cool the charge to the point that it offsets that characteristic.
The iridium plugs with their very thin wire electrode concentrates the spark and ignites the alcohol/gas mixture faster that copper core plugs. The faster ignition and burn yields more BTUS and thus power.
The next benefit is with more power less throttle is needed to maintain speed so more mpg's are achieved. The next benefit is with more mpg's the less heat is generated per mile. Case in point. A 103 going 60 miles per hour at 50 mpg on E10 87 octane is making less heat in an hour running than a 93 octane 103 will produce more heat at 40 mpg's in an hours running. The first example did 115,000 BTU's in 50 miles and the second example did 115,000 BTU's in 40 miles. The final benefit a cooler engine runs stronger and lasts longer. The hotter the metal the faster it wears. That is why typically a air cooled engine lasts half as long as a water cooled engine.
When I was young I was into muscle cars and doing cams, raising compression, larger cfm carbs and other things. I did this all they way through with Corvettes and Vipers.
When I changed to collecting HD's given the fact of EPA regulations, I researched every thing that I could find on gasoline, detonation, spark plugs, AFR's and such.
The combination that resulted from that yielded stronger running stock engines with better mpg's and more reliable engines.
So those that say their low compression, long stroke, pushrod and mild tuned stock engines run like crap on low octane are the ones full of crap.
Branding only occurs at the level of the tanker truck. When it is filled the driver adds the additive of the brand that is going to get the load. The additive is detergent. Detergent is already in the gas but the so called top tier brands adds a few parts per million more. I had one trucker that I knew tell me "do you think that I am going to climb on top of that tanker in zero degrees with high winds in the winter?"
The difference is octane. Octane is not even remotely power. It is simply a measurement to identify the gasoline's resistance to ignite. Water mist into the intake is a way to raise octane higher.
The power in gasoline is BTU's. Summer gas is about 115,000 BTU's/gal and winter gas is about 112,000 btu's/gal.
To get the most power the AFR that burns the most of the charge during the power stroke. The higher the octane the slower the burn so more of the unburned gas goes out the exhaust.
One horse power is just under 3,000 BTU's. So lower octane burns more completely and produce more power during the power stroke. Burning more means more heat which can lead to detonation. However with a 12.8 to 1 AFR a cooler incoming charge and more complete burn as it is the easiest AFR to ignite.
The E10 comes into play with an advantage. Yes the alcohol has less BTU's than the gas it replaces. But it also evaporates faster and helps cool the charge to the point that it offsets that characteristic.
The iridium plugs with their very thin wire electrode concentrates the spark and ignites the alcohol/gas mixture faster that copper core plugs. The faster ignition and burn yields more BTUS and thus power.
The next benefit is with more power less throttle is needed to maintain speed so more mpg's are achieved. The next benefit is with more mpg's the less heat is generated per mile. Case in point. A 103 going 60 miles per hour at 50 mpg on E10 87 octane is making less heat in an hour running than a 93 octane 103 will produce more heat at 40 mpg's in an hours running. The first example did 115,000 BTU's in 50 miles and the second example did 115,000 BTU's in 40 miles. The final benefit a cooler engine runs stronger and lasts longer. The hotter the metal the faster it wears. That is why typically a air cooled engine lasts half as long as a water cooled engine.
When I was young I was into muscle cars and doing cams, raising compression, larger cfm carbs and other things. I did this all they way through with Corvettes and Vipers.
When I changed to collecting HD's given the fact of EPA regulations, I researched every thing that I could find on gasoline, detonation, spark plugs, AFR's and such.
The combination that resulted from that yielded stronger running stock engines with better mpg's and more reliable engines.
So those that say their low compression, long stroke, pushrod and mild tuned stock engines run like crap on low octane are the ones full of crap.
Last edited by lh4x4; Oct 23, 2015 at 11:21 PM.
There is no such thing as the "best" gasoline. In each geographic area EPA regulates the blend. There are about 26 regions in the US. All refined gasolines in those areas are IDENTICAL.
Branding only occurs at the level of the tanker truck. When it is filled the driver adds the additive of the brand that is going to get the load. The additive is detergent. Detergent is already in the gas but the so called top tier brands adds a few parts per million more. I had one trucker that I knew tell me "do you think that I am going to climb on top of that tanker in zero degrees with high winds in the winter?"
The difference is octane. Octane is not even remotely power. It is simply a measurement to identify the gasoline's resistance to ignite. Water mist into the intake is a way to raise octane higher.
The power in gasoline is BTU's. Summer gas is about 115,000 BTU's/gal and winter gas is about 112,000 btu's/gal.
To get the most power the AFR that burns the most of the charge during the power stroke. The higher the octane the slower the burn so more of the unburned gas goes out the exhaust.
One horse power is just under 3,000 BTU's. So lower octane burns more completely and produce more power during the power stroke. Burning more means more heat which can lead to detonation. However with a 12.8 to 1 AFR a cooler incoming charge and more complete burn as it is the easiest AFR to ignite.
The E10 comes into play with an advantage. Yes the alcohol has less BTU's than the gas it replaces. But it also evaporates faster and helps cool the charge to the point that it offsets that characteristic.
The iridium plugs with their very thin wire electrode concentrates the spark and ignites the alcohol/gas mixture faster that copper core plugs. The faster ignition and burn yields more BTUS and thus power.
The next benefit is with more power less throttle is needed to maintain speed so more mpg's are achieved. The next benefit is with more mpg's the less heat is generated per mile. Case in point. A 103 going 60 miles per hour at 50 mpg on E10 87 octane is making less heat in an hour running than a 93 octane 103 will produce more heat at 40 mpg's in an hours running. The first example did 115,000 BTU's in 50 miles and the second example did 115,000 BTU's in 40 miles. The final benefit a cooler engine runs stronger and lasts longer. The hotter the metal the faster it wears. That is why typically a air cooled engine lasts half as long as a water cooled engine.
When I was young I was into muscle cars and doing cams, raising compression, larger cfm carbs and other things. I did this all they way through with Corvettes and Vipers.
When I changed to collecting HD's given the fact of EPA regulations, I researched every thing that I could find on gasoline, detonation, spark plugs, AFR's and such.
The combination that resulted from that yielded stronger running stock engines with better mpg's and more reliable engines.
So those that say their low compression, long stroke, pushrod and mild tuned stock engines run like crap on low octane are the ones full of crap.
Branding only occurs at the level of the tanker truck. When it is filled the driver adds the additive of the brand that is going to get the load. The additive is detergent. Detergent is already in the gas but the so called top tier brands adds a few parts per million more. I had one trucker that I knew tell me "do you think that I am going to climb on top of that tanker in zero degrees with high winds in the winter?"
The difference is octane. Octane is not even remotely power. It is simply a measurement to identify the gasoline's resistance to ignite. Water mist into the intake is a way to raise octane higher.
The power in gasoline is BTU's. Summer gas is about 115,000 BTU's/gal and winter gas is about 112,000 btu's/gal.
To get the most power the AFR that burns the most of the charge during the power stroke. The higher the octane the slower the burn so more of the unburned gas goes out the exhaust.
One horse power is just under 3,000 BTU's. So lower octane burns more completely and produce more power during the power stroke. Burning more means more heat which can lead to detonation. However with a 12.8 to 1 AFR a cooler incoming charge and more complete burn as it is the easiest AFR to ignite.
The E10 comes into play with an advantage. Yes the alcohol has less BTU's than the gas it replaces. But it also evaporates faster and helps cool the charge to the point that it offsets that characteristic.
The iridium plugs with their very thin wire electrode concentrates the spark and ignites the alcohol/gas mixture faster that copper core plugs. The faster ignition and burn yields more BTUS and thus power.
The next benefit is with more power less throttle is needed to maintain speed so more mpg's are achieved. The next benefit is with more mpg's the less heat is generated per mile. Case in point. A 103 going 60 miles per hour at 50 mpg on E10 87 octane is making less heat in an hour running than a 93 octane 103 will produce more heat at 40 mpg's in an hours running. The first example did 115,000 BTU's in 50 miles and the second example did 115,000 BTU's in 40 miles. The final benefit a cooler engine runs stronger and lasts longer. The hotter the metal the faster it wears. That is why typically a air cooled engine lasts half as long as a water cooled engine.
When I was young I was into muscle cars and doing cams, raising compression, larger cfm carbs and other things. I did this all they way through with Corvettes and Vipers.
When I changed to collecting HD's given the fact of EPA regulations, I researched every thing that I could find on gasoline, detonation, spark plugs, AFR's and such.
The combination that resulted from that yielded stronger running stock engines with better mpg's and more reliable engines.
So those that say their low compression, long stroke, pushrod and mild tuned stock engines run like crap on low octane are the ones full of crap.
In Eastern Canada, the choice is relatively easy. "Usually", (no guarantee), our highest available octane number 91, contains no Ethanol. It is the bikers gas of choice. I carry a can of Seafoam in by sissy bar bag, with a (liquor) shot pourer jammed into it, so I can conveniently add an ounce or two of Seafoam to my tank before filling from single hose pumps. This sounds obsessive to many, I'm sure, but the Seafoam can stays upright in the sissy bar bag and the shot pourer seals it adequately till you invert it. Very convenient indeed.











