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Adjust front brake light switch?

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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 02:00 PM
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Default Adjust front brake light switch?

I have an 09 fatbob, stock bars/grips/brake lever etc, but I do have a kury LED brake light. The problem I have is when I use my front brake lever, the brake light illuminates, but upon releasing the lever, it doesn't ALWAYS go off. I found that if I just ever so slightly push my brake lever forward, it goes off. So, it would appear the little switch or contact at the lever is right on the ragged edge of always being activated, lighting up the brake light. Is there any adjustment I can do to this so that I have to pull the brake lever more than a 1/8" before the light illumintates? I'm worried I'll be riding along and the brake will be light up, and when I do brake, cars/riders won't know... The wife hasn't said anything about it when we ride, so maybe the vibration of riding takes care of it, but I'd still like to adjust it some if possible.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 05:50 PM
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the front brake light circuit switch plunger is released to turn on the brake light and depressed to turn it off, in other words, pulling the leaver releases the switch plunger turning on the brake light. You might take a look at the bent v-shaped piece of copper flat stock that is used to hold the switch in place. You might spread it out some and see if that helps. However, it could be that your switch is getting intermittent. The switches are cheap and not that difficult to change so if you are going to pull it all apart and dick around with it, you might as well just go ahead and replace it and be done...
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 06:28 PM
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Master cylinder rebuild. Cheap and easy.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 07:06 PM
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Why would I need a master cylinder rebuild for the switch? The MC is working fine.
 
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Old Oct 26, 2015 | 07:55 PM
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if it ain't the switch, it will probably be the spring action in the master cylinder not pushing the plunger out all the way. Your 8 year-old system might be gunked up inside and that can cause the plunger to move sticky and it might not be coming out all the way. Spray a little WD-40 around the brake master cylinder plunger where the brake lever actuates it and work it some and see if it moves more freely. Even if it does, you may be in need of a good cleaning and fluid flush.

Sometimes it's the little things that are telling us bits and pieces of a story that we tend to ignore or fail to see the big picture...In my experience, brakes usually work good right up until the time they don't work...
 
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 05:12 AM
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Your problem is the lever, clean the clevis pin and only use a light oil when you put it back together.
 

Last edited by petefwa; Oct 27, 2015 at 05:14 AM.
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Old Oct 27, 2015 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by apblingAEW
Why would I need a master cylinder rebuild for the switch? The MC is working fine.
Because the typical problem is not the brake switch, its the master cylinder that isn't fully extending back out which causes the light to stay on. Even though the brake feels fine, if it isn't extending back out and shutting off the brake light, it needs rebuilt. The part # you need is 45072-96d and it costs $37. Save yourself the headache and just get it rebuilt.
 

Last edited by CornbredNE; Oct 27, 2015 at 03:45 PM. Reason: typo
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