Moved

 

what i said.... "The fp3, and maybe a bad installation (easy to do if you don't follow instructions) are more likely the causes..."



i'm not going to entertain the sensors tangent, it's irrelevant and you haven't even mounted the pipe. you will, more than likely, have zero problems.


no, i did not and will not take my bikes to a tuner. power vision. my money is where my mouth is.

your gas milage WILL drop... you are giving the engine more gas over the stock map. if you give the engine more gas how, exactly, do you expect it to not use more gas than when it was being given less gas? it will not be extreme and ludicrous like the OP's 200-->100 claim but, there will be a drop. to say otherwise is the same as saying 100-5=100.

bassani puts out quality. it's an honest company, even the OP said they laughed at the Fisher-Price 3. they know what they are doing. those adapters are there because all builds are not the same. would be better to ring them up and talk to them before opining on design choices from a closed point of view. they are happy to help. you might even get Darryl on the phone.

we aren't doing that.... no sir

 

Does your Bassani have the o2 sensor adapters? Thanks!

 

Cvaria, thanks for your input.

 

This is where I would like to contribute some information. The adapters other brands use is because they did not want to re-tool/fixture for the newer years. This equals lower production costs. However, as research shows, this pulls the O2 sensor out of the exhaust stream, which is not good for the O2 sensor to properly sample and capture information for the fuel trims. This is why we developed the "Super-bung". This is a custom made cast "pringle-chip" that immerses the O2 sensor in the exhaust whether it is a 18mm or 12mm. Notice the angle and depth? I have posted about this before. The picture is not a Bassani, but the same bung is used. Check out the response below.

I wanted to explain the reasoning behind eliminating the O2 sensors and why we recommend this. First, this is a last resort for us when a customer's exhaust system does not have the O2 sensors properly placed in the exhaust stream. Without proper immersion, port-distance and clocking on the exhaust, the O2 sensor will not have proper saturation in the exhaust stream. This can cause improper sampling which leads to incorrect Adaptive Fuel Value's (short term and long term trims). This is when other exhaust companies do not re-tool for the new O2 sensor sizes or use new technology like our "Super-Bung". Instead they use adapters or reducers. This pulls the O2 sensor out of the exhaust and also creates a pocket. Obviously this is not conducive for for proper O2 sampling. Below is a photo example.





Short exhausts with wide-open baffles can also make this effect even worse because the effects of reversion.

Below is a short video explaining our super bung and displays how we place the O2 sensors in our exhaust systems.

http://video.vanceandhines.com/super-bung/

So when a customer has a setup such as this, we recommend to disconnect the O2's to force the bike into Open loop. This does not compromise the bikes reliability or create a Forced Power Management Mode (Limp Mode). I am currently working on a way to turn off the O2's within the app (forced open loop). Thus no longer needing the use of eliminators. Which are only an inline resistor.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at cneely@vanceandhines.com

 

I am aware that this is an older threat. But since I found the discussion very helpful when assessing my fair share of problems with the above combination, I would like to share the bottom line of my experience.

I used to have the HD SE air cleaner and a pair of Cobra slip-ons on my 2014 XL1200X Forty Eight, with fuel/air managed by an FP3, without doing an auto tune. The bike ran really smooth and power delivery was linear. As usual with this kind of setup, power gains were limited but sound improved.

a few years later, as I finally make changes to this bike (I had been busy working on a zombie FLSTF), I removed the exhaust system and added Bassani RR two pipes. I wanted to keep forwards, so the number of pipes that worked was very small.

Clearly, the pipes are not as precisely engineered as some others, V&H for example. In fact, these were the least well fitting pipes I ever installed. But when they are on, they look great and sound mature. Don’t look at the gaps between heat shields and pipes though…

then the problems began. FuelPak doesn’t offer a map for the RR twos. There are maps for other RR though (1 and 3). I first tried the RR 3 map FuelPak offered. Worked ok except for the massive decel pop. Using the FuelPak option to reduce this didn’t help much (by now I am pretty sure that all it does is pushing a little more fuel into the engine when engine decelerates, that’s it). Checked cylinder heads and flanges, and retightened a bit (given the crazy decel pop and the not perfect fit of the pipes). no change. Kept riding it for 100 miles, then the engine light came on. never happened before. Error codes said rear cylinder received too much fuel.

i thought before going through the hassle of autotune, better try some other predefined Bassani 2-1 maps. I settled for one of them, although the difference was not large. Except for too much decel pop, all good for about 50 miles. Engine light in. Again.

this time, the error code said the map sensor was not plugged in, was was not true. Long story short: whatever I tried, the engine light would not go away. I unplugged the FuelPak and everything was good. I was happy that the issue was not the bike’s engine but the electronics. I installed the FP3 again, same error. Changed map to base map for this bike (oem). No engine light. But that was not sustainable of course. Went into autotune, with base map. Engine light in again. Bad.

After reading for hours about how to get around this software problem (in fact FuelPak support for Bassani is weak, which was the root cause of all my problems) I tried someone’s recommendation to run an autotune for a generic (!) 2-1 full exhaust.

and you know what, the engine light went off immediately, with no error messages in FP3. initially the bike ran very choppy, especially in the mid range and when cold at low rpm’s. The auto tune took long before I felt it was reasonably well tuned. Decel pop was much less of an issue too. It feels like the bike gained a lot of hp, not much torque. But a lot of pull for sure. It’s still a rough ride, but gives a lot of adrenaline. I wouldn’t let anyone else ride it though.

the solution to get rid of the error codes and make the bike run well with RR twos was to double check the exhaust flanges and cylinder head gaskets (because of the less than perfect fit of these particular pipes), to start from a base map and use FP3‘s autotune. And to spend some time doing the latter. I don’t think you can get to a decent setup in just 90 minutes of driving.