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Here is a log off my rice bike doing full on bake testing with only the front brake. I was on clean concrete for this test. I went from 0 braking to .8 geez in .8 sec. Think thru what sort of rider talent it takes to make this significantly better.
Re only using the rear brake, you are seriously limited to a very dangerous max gee loads. I could run the tests comparing the difference in the spring.
Here is a log off my rice bike doing full on bake testing with only the front brake. I was on clean concrete for this test. I went from 0 braking to .8 geez in .8 sec. Think thru what sort of rider talent it takes to make this significantly better.
Re only using the rear brake, you are seriously limited to a very dangerous max gee loads. I could run the tests comparing the difference in the spring.
Andy
But, but, everything you're showing agrees with my original post: As braking takes place, the vast, vast majority of the braking force transitions to the front, and the amount of braking at the rear drops so dramatically that if you don't ease up on the rear brake, the wheel will lock.
Looks like the 42542-06 brake pedal, you can slice off the brake pedal pad and you'll find a hole drilled in the center in the pedal, you can add an extended brake pad if you'd like very easily
I had ordered floorboards on Thursday that came today. They came with heel-toe shift and a much larger brake pedal.
I have ABS on my FXDL and in 6 months it's only kicked in once for about half a second on a slick spot. That's all it takes sometimes.
Emp Wurm brought up a great point about dirt bike riders. I grew up riding on all kinds of terrain and on a dirt bike it's all about traction management. There were some valuable lessons learned there. On the street it's also about traction management and making sure you never lose it! Braking seems to be an intuitive reaction based on experience. So make sure you get plenty! Keep the rubber side down.....
First, "laying it down" is a crash. You're suggesting that crashing twice, first into the ground, and again into the car, is preferable to crashing once, and at a significantly lower speed.
That is, to use your word, insane.
While I generally agree with you on most of your points in this thread:
In some scenarios, given the choice, I'd rather slide into a car on my side, wheels first, than do a face-plant (brain-plant) against the car. And that's what one often sees stunt-riders doing in movies. Why? Because their objective is to present crash scenarios without dying, or becoming seriously injured.
There is also the option of making such an extreme evasive maneuver, that one has no chance of staying upright, but manages do avoid the collision. That also might be better than just braking and staying upright, and hitting the obstacle, even if you might consider both to be crashes".
Last edited by Warp Factor; Dec 19, 2015 at 04:51 PM.
On bike that can do a stoppie, the rear brake force is very near 0 all the time. If you are into that sort of thing, I can show you the math. I was shocked when I discovered it.
We originally discovered it developing race car braking systems. We later verified the findings with math.
Andy
Ok lets see your math.
So the rear brake has 0 effect, when applied at all times? Come on you know better.
While I generally agree with you on most of your points in this thread:
In some scenarios, given the choice, I'd rather slide into a car on my side, wheels first, than do a face-plant (brain-plant) against the car. And that's what one often sees stunt-riders doing in movies. Why? Because their objective is to present crash scenarios without dying, or becoming seriously injured.
There is also the option of making such an extreme evasive maneuver, that one has no chance of staying upright, but manages do avoid the collision. That also might be better than just braking and staying upright, and hitting the obstacle, even if you might consider both to be crashes".
Finally something I can agree with. When I rode with only a rear brake ('73) I had to do just that, slide into the side of a broad doing an illegal left from an off ramp in Corte Madera.
And there are riders who don't survive 45 days; the names I listed and many others, like Jerry Palladino and Jason Pridemore offer advanced riding skills training through books, DVD's, and classes to those who are willing and interested in improving their motorcycling skill set. A deeper understanding of cornering theory, throttle control, braking, and the proper use of vision; the how's and why's, the technology of riding. Motorcycling isn't an instinctive activity but rather a learned skill; the more you learn and understand, the better you are at it...
That. Just like so many so-called "ordinary" activities. If you want to be mediocre, why, there's a good chance you can drive for 45 years without getting killed; yeah, you can probably get away with that. Striving for excellence takes time, determination, and practice, and THAT's what separates the men from the boys...
How well does that 80/20 ratio work when there's nearly zero weight on the rear tire?
The problem with the topic is that it's bike dependent. On a sportbike, a rear brake is essentially useless as if you're braking hard on the front brake, the rear wheel is likely off the ground. Heavier standards become a problem because they are likely to be very lightly touching the ground under hard front braking and will start skidding and fishtailing with very little rear brake application.
For big cruisers, I'm with the OP. In my experience neither brake is very effective alone, but combined they seem to work pretty well.
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