Exhaust stud likelihood
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 11,814
Likes: 5,120
From: SW Ohio
Ive had to fix some that were broke off flush. I have a tool from George's Garage that makes it a little less painful. Follow the advice given above and you may not need such a tool.
https://www.google.com/search?q=geor...EqZq0XhOBuM%3A
https://www.google.com/search?q=geor...EqZq0XhOBuM%3A
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,448
Likes: 2,299
From: NW Ohio
i found this on www.homadetools.com thought very interesting.
Homemade Penetrating Oil
For All of you Mechanic's and Self doers out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters
Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently Machinist Workshop Magazine did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they scientifically rusted to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.
This last shop brew of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.
The only thing I use anymore is the DIY super penetrant.
Homemade Penetrating Oil
For All of you Mechanic's and Self doers out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters
Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently Machinist Workshop Magazine did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they scientifically rusted to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.
This last shop brew of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.
The only thing I use anymore is the DIY super penetrant.
Road Warrior
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 1,826
Likes: 87
From: Cookson, Ok
i found this on www.homadetools.com thought very interesting.
Homemade Penetrating Oil
For All of you Mechanic's and Self doers out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters
Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently Machinist Workshop Magazine did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they scientifically rusted to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.
This last shop brew of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.
The only thing I use anymore is the DIY super penetrant.
Homemade Penetrating Oil
For All of you Mechanic's and Self doers out there.
Penetrating Oil - interesting
This was in one of the Military Vehicle Club newsletters
Here is an interesting finding on Penetrating Oils
Recently Machinist Workshop Magazine did a test on penetrating oils. Using nuts and
bolts that they scientifically rusted to a uniform degree by soaking in salt water, they then
tested the break-out torque required to loosen the nuts. They treated the nuts with a variety
of penetrants and measured the torque required to loosen them.
This is what they came up with:
Nothing: 516 lbs
WD-40: 238 lbs;
PB Blaster: 214 lbs;
Liquid Wrench: 127 lbs,
Kano Kroil: 106 lbs
(ATF)/Acetone mix (50/50): 50 lbs.
This last shop brew of 50% automatic transmission fluid and 50% acetone appears to beat
out the commercially prepared products costing far more.
The only thing I use anymore is the DIY super penetrant.
Road Warrior
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 1,301
Likes: 24
From: Minden LA
I would've used a heat gun on the head, then used a 50/50 mix of acetone and atf, squirted on the head/stud and waited a couple hours for it to penetrate. Then, reheat the head, and spray freon on the stud, then used the stud puller tool. Works good!!! Tricks of the trade
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 3,949
Likes: 150
From: South of Mordor
Maybe some PB Blaster soaked in, some heat on the head and a nut welded to the bolt.
I broke my stud during an exhaust removal a few years back, did what you did and ended up braking it off at the head, had to have it machined out. This year I blew out an exhaust gasket while riding to Sturgis, I was so worried about the replacement stud when the shop had to remove the exhaust to install the new gasket, came out with ease.
I broke my stud during an exhaust removal a few years back, did what you did and ended up braking it off at the head, had to have it machined out. This year I blew out an exhaust gasket while riding to Sturgis, I was so worried about the replacement stud when the shop had to remove the exhaust to install the new gasket, came out with ease.
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 6,066
Likes: 1,121
From:
When applying a penetrating lubricant consider protecting all paint and especially the fender.
Many penetrating lubricants contain acetone which is excellent at getting the lubricant to penetrate deep into the crevice but terrible on paint.
An exhaust stud extraction tool as the one shown earlier or maybe this one might help in removal.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FUwYHwodV3AL1A
You will probably only get one chance at the stud before it breaks.
It is not in terrible shape based on picture.
It does look like taking some heat (torch) cycles to the stud to help break some bonds might help.
Then letting it cool and repeat heat again on the stud.
Then a few repeated soaking with a 50/50 acetone mixed with ATF over a few DAYS.
You should maintain the stud angle during removal as to avoid introduction of additional stress.
The "good" stud shows some corrosion in the base as it enters cylinder..The rust is probably making it bind.
Wonder if it would be a good idea to put some anti-seize on new stud.
Make sure to isolate reason for stud breaking while riding .
Many penetrating lubricants contain acetone which is excellent at getting the lubricant to penetrate deep into the crevice but terrible on paint.
An exhaust stud extraction tool as the one shown earlier or maybe this one might help in removal.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...FUwYHwodV3AL1A
You will probably only get one chance at the stud before it breaks.
It is not in terrible shape based on picture.
It does look like taking some heat (torch) cycles to the stud to help break some bonds might help.
Then letting it cool and repeat heat again on the stud.
Then a few repeated soaking with a 50/50 acetone mixed with ATF over a few DAYS.
You should maintain the stud angle during removal as to avoid introduction of additional stress.
The "good" stud shows some corrosion in the base as it enters cylinder..The rust is probably making it bind.
Wonder if it would be a good idea to put some anti-seize on new stud.
Make sure to isolate reason for stud breaking while riding .
Last edited by im; Dec 23, 2015 at 11:15 AM.
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Thread Starter
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Tourer
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 264
Likes: 58
From: Reno, NVs
Update
Well tried the lube it, heat it, different gripping tools...it's just warping the stud. That same rocker box gasket has a leak, just going to put the head and fix the stud that way, and start the winter mods earlier than planned. Thanks for all the advice, some good tricks were learned.
