New Low Rider S
#2251
Originally Posted by brasher
I'm thinking of going down that route, all seems very easy that way.
I have a slight complication though. In Australia (particularly Sydney) the cops are vigilant with bike compliance. (be it exhaust noise or anything)
the indicators need to be 180mm apart, so that rules out the intergrated sets.
What I am thinking of though, is running the lights like the stock Low Rider and maybe having the ECM reprogrammed to suit (central tail light and side indicators)
it's a bit of a pain in the *** but hopefully worth it. I think a nice 2 up seat looks a lot better on a full length guard than a bobbed one IMO.
I have a slight complication though. In Australia (particularly Sydney) the cops are vigilant with bike compliance. (be it exhaust noise or anything)
the indicators need to be 180mm apart, so that rules out the intergrated sets.
What I am thinking of though, is running the lights like the stock Low Rider and maybe having the ECM reprogrammed to suit (central tail light and side indicators)
it's a bit of a pain in the *** but hopefully worth it. I think a nice 2 up seat looks a lot better on a full length guard than a bobbed one IMO.
#2253
Originally Posted by brasher
That looks awesome.
Let me know how you go with the indicators and if you have to do any re-programming etc or it's just plug and play.
Thanks.
Let me know how you go with the indicators and if you have to do any re-programming etc or it's just plug and play.
Thanks.
#2255
#2256
#2257
Long time lurker first time poster. Thanks for all knowledge in this thread. Put this 2017 FDXLS together with the help of some pals, all the work done in the driveway with the back of my truck as a work bench. There is a bit more work to do but this is a great bike. The Dynojet Power vision is a wicked tool as well, I have it mounted on the bars and am nerding out on the amount of information it can pull and display and the programming you can modify on the bike. This is a great platform to build on, my only real beef is the lack of lean angle before you're scraping pegs. I came from a 2000 FXDS-CONV Convertible and I felt that bike was a lot taller and allowed for more aggressive riding than the FXDLS out of the box. I ordered a set of the new Progressive 490 "sport shocks" in 13.5" to see if that helps the cornering. I wish the factory had built this bike higher off the ground but then it wouldnt have been a "Low-Rider"... I feel like an Superglide S would have been a better choice than a LR but at the end of the day this bike is still bitchin as hell and I love it. The Bassani RRIII has a great tone to it, not too loud when you're idling but it barks to about 80% of the "i'm just an ******* with a really loud bike" level when you give it the throttle. I don't love super loud bikes for the hell of it, the RR3 is right at the limit for me. The Lucky Dave's bar and seat are both top notch and a perfect setup. For those trying to get taller bars on there, these are 14" and there is enough electrical wire in the frame to wire up to at least 16" bars. You will need a clutch cable and ABS compatible brake lines. You can use Fat Bob FXDB lines, I used Drag Specialites and they were fine. For 14" Lucky Dave's bars I used
- Drag Specialties High Efficiency Clutch Cable Braided - 76 11/16in. (31 1/2in.) - 0652-1488
and
- Drag Specialties Stainless Steel Front Brake Line Kit 21 1/4"/31" - Extended (+8") - Clear with ABS - 1741-3829
Hopefully this info is helpful to someone, it took awhile to figure it all out.
I could have used a slightly shorter clutch cable but the brake line was perfect. The brake lines took some time to bleed but it all worked out.
Also threw on a knockoff Sunpie LED light and it was cheap and throws a really great beam. Thanks for looking.
- Drag Specialties High Efficiency Clutch Cable Braided - 76 11/16in. (31 1/2in.) - 0652-1488
and
- Drag Specialties Stainless Steel Front Brake Line Kit 21 1/4"/31" - Extended (+8") - Clear with ABS - 1741-3829
Hopefully this info is helpful to someone, it took awhile to figure it all out.
I could have used a slightly shorter clutch cable but the brake line was perfect. The brake lines took some time to bleed but it all worked out.
Also threw on a knockoff Sunpie LED light and it was cheap and throws a really great beam. Thanks for looking.
The following 2 users liked this post by Johnny Dixon:
aaron___92 (05-02-2017),
huggies (05-11-2017)
#2258
#2259
How new is the bike? Mine was mush for the first 150-200 or so then it tightened up nicely. Don't ask me how or why...
#2260
Mine was good and tight from day one.