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New Low Rider S

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  #2251  
Old 04-29-2017, 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by brasher
I'm thinking of going down that route, all seems very easy that way.

I have a slight complication though. In Australia (particularly Sydney) the cops are vigilant with bike compliance. (be it exhaust noise or anything)

the indicators need to be 180mm apart, so that rules out the intergrated sets.

What I am thinking of though, is running the lights like the stock Low Rider and maybe having the ECM reprogrammed to suit (central tail light and side indicators)

it's a bit of a pain in the *** but hopefully worth it. I think a nice 2 up seat looks a lot better on a full length guard than a bobbed one IMO.
I just done mine today, it's worth it. Waiting for my Alloy Art signals and Strut covers to get here only to wait for them to get finished in wrinkle black to match the strip on the battery cover and dash. The Moons tail light has the signals integrated for now.

New Low Rider S-photo627.jpg

New Low Rider S-photo615.jpg
 
  #2252  
Old 04-29-2017, 10:15 PM
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That looks awesome.

Let me know how you go with the indicators and if you have to do any re-programming etc or it's just plug and play.

Thanks.
 
  #2253  
Old 04-29-2017, 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by brasher
That looks awesome.

Let me know how you go with the indicators and if you have to do any re-programming etc or it's just plug and play.

Thanks.
Thank you. When the Alloy art signals show up I'll unplug the turn signals in the light from the circuit board. Currently when you hit the brake the signals come on with the brake light. I'm curious to seen if it will do the same with the alloys. I'll try to keep you posted on how it goes.
 
  #2254  
Old 04-30-2017, 04:19 PM
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Local shop had a dyno day.


Bassani Road Rage 3, PV supplied by fuel moto, Autotuned.

Little bit lower than I expected actually. Still runs great however.


New Low Rider S-kqrjoxw.jpg
 
  #2255  
Old 04-30-2017, 07:41 PM
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Originally Posted by Wroughten
About half way there, one off bars and exhaust.. just waiting on some overnight deliveries.

Are those West coast MX 10" bars?? Nice bike!
 
  #2256  
Old 04-30-2017, 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by ebusa
Are those West coast MX 10" bars?? Nice bike!
No, I fabricated those my self, thanks.
 

Last edited by Wroughten; 04-30-2017 at 08:38 PM.
  #2257  
Old 05-01-2017, 01:15 AM
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Long time lurker first time poster. Thanks for all knowledge in this thread. Put this 2017 FDXLS together with the help of some pals, all the work done in the driveway with the back of my truck as a work bench. There is a bit more work to do but this is a great bike. The Dynojet Power vision is a wicked tool as well, I have it mounted on the bars and am nerding out on the amount of information it can pull and display and the programming you can modify on the bike. This is a great platform to build on, my only real beef is the lack of lean angle before you're scraping pegs. I came from a 2000 FXDS-CONV Convertible and I felt that bike was a lot taller and allowed for more aggressive riding than the FXDLS out of the box. I ordered a set of the new Progressive 490 "sport shocks" in 13.5" to see if that helps the cornering. I wish the factory had built this bike higher off the ground but then it wouldnt have been a "Low-Rider"... I feel like an Superglide S would have been a better choice than a LR but at the end of the day this bike is still bitchin as hell and I love it. The Bassani RRIII has a great tone to it, not too loud when you're idling but it barks to about 80% of the "i'm just an ******* with a really loud bike" level when you give it the throttle. I don't love super loud bikes for the hell of it, the RR3 is right at the limit for me. The Lucky Dave's bar and seat are both top notch and a perfect setup. For those trying to get taller bars on there, these are 14" and there is enough electrical wire in the frame to wire up to at least 16" bars. You will need a clutch cable and ABS compatible brake lines. You can use Fat Bob FXDB lines, I used Drag Specialites and they were fine. For 14" Lucky Dave's bars I used
- Drag Specialties High Efficiency Clutch Cable Braided - 76 11/16in. (31 1/2in.) - 0652-1488

and

- Drag Specialties Stainless Steel Front Brake Line Kit 21 1/4"/31" - Extended (+8") - Clear with ABS - 1741-3829

Hopefully this info is helpful to someone, it took awhile to figure it all out.

I could have used a slightly shorter clutch cable but the brake line was perfect. The brake lines took some time to bleed but it all worked out.

Also threw on a knockoff Sunpie LED light and it was cheap and throws a really great beam. Thanks for looking.


 
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  #2258  
Old 05-01-2017, 09:02 PM
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How's is every one's front brake lever? I feel like mine has a lot of travel before before they engage. Brought it back to the dealership and was told it was normal. My sportster that I had before this the front brakes had very little travel before engaging
 
  #2259  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:00 PM
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Originally Posted by thisisagame24
How's is every one's front brake lever? I feel like mine has a lot of travel before before they engage. Brought it back to the dealership and was told it was normal. My sportster that I had before this the front brakes had very little travel before engaging
How new is the bike? Mine was mush for the first 150-200 or so then it tightened up nicely. Don't ask me how or why...
 
  #2260  
Old 05-01-2017, 10:22 PM
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Originally Posted by thisisagame24
How's is every one's front brake lever? I feel like mine has a lot of travel before before they engage. Brought it back to the dealership and was told it was normal. My sportster that I had before this the front brakes had very little travel before engaging
Mine was good and tight from day one.
 


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