DOT break fluid
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: McLouth Kansas
DOT break fluid
Getting ready to flush my front brakes with fresh fluid on my 00 fxdwg.
Can I use DOT 3 fluid that I already have on hand extra for my car and truck? I can't imagine the system needing fluid that would be rated beyond that level. But as always it is best to ask first and act later. Thanks
Can I use DOT 3 fluid that I already have on hand extra for my car and truck? I can't imagine the system needing fluid that would be rated beyond that level. But as always it is best to ask first and act later. Thanks
Getting ready to flush my front brakes with fresh fluid on my 00 fxdwg.
Can I use DOT 3 fluid that I already have on hand extra for my car and truck? I can't imagine the system needing fluid that would be rated beyond that level. But as always it is best to ask first and act later. Thanks
Can I use DOT 3 fluid that I already have on hand extra for my car and truck? I can't imagine the system needing fluid that would be rated beyond that level. But as always it is best to ask first and act later. Thanks
if the fluid is old and not from a sealed container, don't use it. the fluid is hygroscopic and will have absorbed water and not as effective as it would be if it was fresh.
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: SW Ohio
Stock in 2000 was DOT 5. I wouldn't mix 3-4 with 5. Also, don't go by the color. DOT 5 is purple when it's new and changes to a yellow/brown as it gets older. Many times people have mixed the the two (DOT 5 w/ DOT 3-4) because they looked and didn't see purple in the master cylinder.
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Joined: Nov 2015
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From: Michigan
Nomadmax is correct. DOT 5 is what you need. Mix DOT 3 or 4 (mineral based) with DOT 5 (silicone based) and you get to change all the brake parts for new. It will destroy the lines and seals along with jelling up internal passages. Be very gentle when using DOT 5. Don't shake it up or you'll be fighting air bubbles for a couple days in the system. Best bet is to change the fluid, bleed, then zip tie the brake lever shut overnight. It'll allow any air bubbles to rise to the reservoir. Had to do this myself when I put new brake components on my front end.
Tourer
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 344
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From: WV
All good answers. I don't use anything but 5 on my bike.
I found a pretty easy way to bleed the air out. I had some small clear hose that I could heat the end a little with a lighter and force it over a bleeder and it would stay on there pretty good. I run the clear bleed hose vertical several inches from the bleeder. Then I fill and pump the master like normal and when I'm ready to open the bleeder the fluid comes up the clear hose a little along with the air bubbles. If my hose starts to fill up I simply lean it down into a catch bottle and empty. (no spilling) The theory is to keep any air from going back into the bleeder and to create a high point for the air to rise to I think. The fluid in the hose acts like an air lock but the bubbles coming out of the bleeder will rise to the top of the trapped fluid and I can see them in the clear hose.
This is the easiest way I've found, and the cheapest, to bleed calipers. Last time I did mine I used this method and it was a very simple deal. Without my little clear hose idea I fought air for 3 days.
I know this is off topic but I just wanted to share. Hope you don't mind.
Good luck.
I found a pretty easy way to bleed the air out. I had some small clear hose that I could heat the end a little with a lighter and force it over a bleeder and it would stay on there pretty good. I run the clear bleed hose vertical several inches from the bleeder. Then I fill and pump the master like normal and when I'm ready to open the bleeder the fluid comes up the clear hose a little along with the air bubbles. If my hose starts to fill up I simply lean it down into a catch bottle and empty. (no spilling) The theory is to keep any air from going back into the bleeder and to create a high point for the air to rise to I think. The fluid in the hose acts like an air lock but the bubbles coming out of the bleeder will rise to the top of the trapped fluid and I can see them in the clear hose.
This is the easiest way I've found, and the cheapest, to bleed calipers. Last time I did mine I used this method and it was a very simple deal. Without my little clear hose idea I fought air for 3 days.I know this is off topic but I just wanted to share. Hope you don't mind.
Good luck.
Last edited by rk1997; Feb 15, 2016 at 08:28 AM.
Tourer
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 368
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From: TUCSON, AZ.
I only use fresh DOT 5, and I try to buy it in the smallest size I can find, since I won't use any that's been opened and stored. When trying to find some recently at an O'Reilly and Checker, I was dumbfounded that they had NO Wagner, Lockheed or any other "brand name" DOT 5 fluid. Just one off brand with a label that looked as if it were printed in China. What was really frustrating is that they are now carrying all types of fluid labeled DOT 5.1 and 5.2. DON'T confuse these with DOT 5! 5.1 and 5.2 are GLYCOL based, they are just enhanced versions of DOT 4 fluid (higher boiling point).
The DOT 5 fluids are 70 percent silicone by weight. Only silicone based fluids met the DOT 5 standards when they were created. As a result, DOT 5 has come to be synonymous with silicone brake fluid. When glycol brake fluids with borate esters appeared that met DOT 5 specifications, they introduced them as DOT 5.1&2 to avoid the confusion of having fluids with two very different bases under the same DOT number. Unfortunately, for many people, the 5.1&2 implies some connection to DOT 5 and that has created rather than prevented confusion. Think of 5.1&2 as a glycol based DOT 4 fluid that meets DOT 5 standards. The 5.1 fluids are used primarily in vehicles equipped with ABS brake systems. I hope this helps somebody.....
The DOT 5 fluids are 70 percent silicone by weight. Only silicone based fluids met the DOT 5 standards when they were created. As a result, DOT 5 has come to be synonymous with silicone brake fluid. When glycol brake fluids with borate esters appeared that met DOT 5 specifications, they introduced them as DOT 5.1&2 to avoid the confusion of having fluids with two very different bases under the same DOT number. Unfortunately, for many people, the 5.1&2 implies some connection to DOT 5 and that has created rather than prevented confusion. Think of 5.1&2 as a glycol based DOT 4 fluid that meets DOT 5 standards. The 5.1 fluids are used primarily in vehicles equipped with ABS brake systems. I hope this helps somebody.....
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Joined: Aug 2011
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From: SW Ohio
I'm a DOT 5 user as well on my 2002 FXD-X and the wife's 2006 Xl 883. I have to use DOT 4 on my ABS Road King.
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From: Michigan 15 Minutes East Of Hell
Be careful using DOT 5 in ABS systems ... The ABS cycles so quickly it will aerate the fluid.
" All brake fluids have necessary properties such as a high boiling and a low freezing point. They must not corrode or damage sensitive rubber components used throughout the automotive braking system. DOT 5 brake fluid is purple colored and contains silicon. Silicon brake fluid readily traps air and is not to be used with ABS systems. It's great when custom painted cars need the extra protection from paint damaging polyalkylene-glycol-ether (polyglycol) based fluids. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids are tan colored polyglycol fluids that are hygroscopic and attract and retain moisture. DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are far more common than DOT 5 fluids. Remember that these brake fluids are hygroscopic. It's important to keep the container capped tightly when in storage or they’ll become contaminated with moisture "
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/do...ake-fluid.html
" All brake fluids have necessary properties such as a high boiling and a low freezing point. They must not corrode or damage sensitive rubber components used throughout the automotive braking system. DOT 5 brake fluid is purple colored and contains silicon. Silicon brake fluid readily traps air and is not to be used with ABS systems. It's great when custom painted cars need the extra protection from paint damaging polyalkylene-glycol-ether (polyglycol) based fluids. DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids are tan colored polyglycol fluids that are hygroscopic and attract and retain moisture. DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids are far more common than DOT 5 fluids. Remember that these brake fluids are hygroscopic. It's important to keep the container capped tightly when in storage or they’ll become contaminated with moisture "
http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/do...ake-fluid.html
Last edited by Uncle Larry; Feb 15, 2016 at 09:11 AM.
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Joined: Sep 2014
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From: Minnesota
^↑ Do that ↑^
You can view your bikes owners manual by logging in here.
https://www.harley-davidson.com/cont...rs-manual.html
As several have already said you don't wanna mix different grades.
You can view your bikes owners manual by logging in here.
https://www.harley-davidson.com/cont...rs-manual.html
As several have already said you don't wanna mix different grades.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 89
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From: McLouth Kansas
Thanks guys for the input and suggestions,,,,,I stopped at Oriley on the way home and bought a small container of the DOT 5,, pricey stuff for sure. I don't see why the system would have a need for that type of fluid but I for sure need to use what the factory designed to be in it.