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I'm About Fed Up

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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 05:26 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by blueangel73
If the bike is in gear, you'll get everything except the start button. If it's in neutral, maybe the side stand down switch is faulty. I had a brain fart a while back, bike did the same thing, called the dealer for help, they said they would pick it up. About an hour later, all frustrated, I noticed I didn't have my little green N, I could have kicked myself. Its something that a tech prob wouldn't even think of because it might be natural for them to make sure its in neutral and there fore thank its natural for you too.
Side stand switch? I thought they were on euro models only?
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 06:43 PM
  #32  
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I don't understand the push to put all this computerized bull crap on what is supposed to be a simplistic motorcycle. there's really no need for it. everything now a days has to be way over complicated from what it should be. I suppose its the feds again wanting total control of everything, including the ability to shut off a motorcycle or even worse from the push of a button.


and jeez, broken welds too, wtf?


that lemon law doesn;t make much sense, how do you count an attempt at fixing an issue before they even know what the issue is?


have them give you a loaner bike and let them worry about the issues. they'll figure it out, odd that it took 2500 miles to show up though. Who knows, maybe something is draining the battery when it sits.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 07:03 PM
  #33  
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Battery is fully charged. It's a brand new battery and I keep it on a tender. Lights and everything else is working and bright.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 07:39 PM
  #34  
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If this is your first Harley and you bought a warranty package, is this where the confusion is concerning the year and mileage.? When you bought the bike did the sales person explain how the bike is started using the ignition switch and stop run switch. Now here's the main question are you using the run/stop switch to shut down the bike and forgetting to turn off the ignition key? The battery would be discharging at this point.This may be something as simple as familiarity with the bike and the electrical switches. Not insulting your intelligence but.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 07:55 PM
  #35  
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Thanks (seriously, I know you're trying to help) But, I'm 65 years old and I've been riding for over 48 years, including 9 years of racing flat track. I've owned close to 50 motorcycles. Over a dozen Harleys. I KNOW how to start a bike. In all those years I've never left an ignition on, or forgot the kill switch. Never. Have just never, ever had a problem like this. I truthfully want to see if I can fix it myself, but the HD tech said that if "I" work on the bike, and they find out, my warranty is toast, because they can blame whatever is wrong on something they'll say I did.
 

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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 08:29 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by hd4evr2008
I truthfully want to see if I can fix it myself, but the HD tech said that if "I" work on the bike, and they find out, my warranty is toast, because they can blame whatever is wrong on something they'll say I did.
The tech is spreading a bunch of FUD. If you don't know what FUD is google it. As long as you keep records & receipts to document that the bike is being maintained per Harley's service schedule your warranty is not in jeopardy. There is a law (Magnasson-Moss Act) to protect your right to service your vehicle & not lose your factory warranty. You need to fire your tech as he cannot be trusted if he is lying to you about this. Good luck with your bike & I hope you get it fixed.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 10:04 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by hd4evr2008
I truthfully want to see if I can fix it myself, but the HD tech said that if "I" work on the bike, and they find out, my warranty is toast, because they can blame whatever is wrong on something they'll say I did.
You need to take that little nugget to his Service Manager, because it is total horseshit.
 
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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 10:27 PM
  #38  
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looked in my service manual, wire schematic does not show the push to start switch, does show a wire from anti theft module to the BCM, and another coming out of the BCM to the solenoid. have never been into one of these, am guessing the push to start switch energizes a pilot relay in the BCM, which energizes the solenoid, as near can tell, the HD starter works about like the old delco remy starters on older chevrolet as the solenoid pulls in it closes the starter motor contacts. sounds like the best way to check is press the push to start switch, check for power at the terminal going into the BCM, if good, check going out of BCM to solenoid. schematic in manual is not the best.
 

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Old Jun 7, 2016 | 10:31 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by j_bee
When you hit the start button on your bike, a computer message is sent from the right hand switch gear to a module called a BCM(Body Control module). The BCM is the major controller of most electrical items on your bike and in this instance the module is supposed to send voltage to your starter solenoid when you hit the start button which allows it to engage the starter and turn your bike over if relevant conditions are met, for example, you're not in gear with the side stand is down.
The amperage that the starter solenoid draws is monitored by the BCM and if it falls outside a certain range a code is set.
B2121 if it sees too little amperage being drawn & B2124 if it sees too much amperage being drawn.
It is a pretty simple check to verify which component is at fault and if that is the only code, then I'd suspect that the BCM isn't sending any voltage to the starter solenoid when you hit the start button and when it checks to see how much current is being drawn, it obviously sees too little being drawn and throws the code.
If it was a right switch gear issue or a canbus communication problem between the switch gear and the BCM, then the BCM wouldn't receive the message in the first place to make the decision to monitor the starter solenoid current draw.
The first check the shop should be doing is checking for voltage at the wire that goes to the starter solenoid from the BCM when the starter is pressed.
If no voltage is present then the next check would be to see if the BCM is sending voltage along that wire by measuring voltage at the relevant terminal coming out of the BCM. If voltage is coming out then there is likely a break in the wire to the start solenoid....never seen that so far.
If no voltage is measured coming out of the BCM when the starter is hit then BCM replacement is required. Seen that a few times although not a common issue.
I've seen a few switch gear issues but like I say, that may well not be the cause of your problem in this case.
It could be an intermittent issue, hence the shop not figuring it out but I'm surprised that the code hasn't pointed them in the right direction.
re read your notes, so it is a computer signal from the push to start switch, not 12vdc control power? also is the BCM solid state or a relay box?
 
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Old Jun 8, 2016 | 02:39 PM
  #40  
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Talked to them today. Now they are saying that "something" is apparently draining the battery, but they haven't found what it is yet. They said give them a couple more days.
 
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