Blacked out wheels look great.

So does the chop

Its all Great

GREAT GREAT GREAT

 

Coming along beautifully!

 

Lot more updates. Going to post these over a couple of posts, so forgive the spam here but I've been doing a lot of work on the bike.

Got an order from Joker Machine - a finned derby cover, all black.





Before...





After





Updated dash coming back together nicely. The silver textured speedo matches the silver paint well too.





Time to start reassembly.





My wife will be glad to get the dining table back. It's covered completely with bags of fasteners.





More bits...





Final resting place for the DK Customs discrete breather / oil collector filter. Decided to hang it right underneath the A/C instead of routing it to the back.





New rear master cylinder cover and freshly re-powder coated exhaust bracket.





Front end coming together. I love the blacked out headlight buckets. Almost left the buckets chrome, but I'm so glad I didn't.





RB Voodoo fender bracket / struts installed. Testing the fitment before I put the fender itself back on. Checking clearance, etc.





Half a bike! Got the front wheel / calipers / rotors back on.

 

Lookin good maaan! 😎

 

Close up of the RB Voodoo fender bracket fitment.





Chain guard installed, rear fender, license plate bracket, and rear wheel & brake.





NEEDS A SEAT but looking good. Yes, I did go ride it without a seat after this pic. The maiden voyage of the Black Widow turned some heads.

 

Got an order from Chrome Glow today. I've been riding the bike around with no seat and no RBT (run / brake / turn) taillight. Very dangerous. So I was excited to get this package today. Chrome Glow was great to work with. I had placed an order online (self-help) and then sent them an email with photos of my fender. They actually called me to tell me they didn't think I would be happy with my order, and suggested these parts instead. What I have here are (left to right) piranha teeth, a 50/50 LED light array bar, and a module to make it do RBT and strobe when braking. My requirements for this solution were (1) something inconspicuous - not really noticeable when it's not on, (2) something that can mount under the fender, (3) something that will handle brake, running lights, turn signals, (4) and something that will strobe when I brake. This solution will do all of those things.

Here are the exact parts I ordered for this install:
Piranha Teeth (sold by the inch), comes with adhesive tape
3M Adhesive Promoter Pad
50/50 LED Light Bar array, red LEDs, smoked 4200-3030RS
Radiantz Fleekz module with strobe 6126-51
Custom Dynamics signal stabilizer 2050-0218 (CD P/N GEN2-SSHD) - this is plug & play for Fat Bob

I completed the installation without using the Custom Dynamics signal stabilizer. This is not surprising, because Chrome Glow told me if it was just the light array, I probably wouldn't need the signal stabilizer. But if I planned on doing any other LEDs (which I do), then I should get it. So I haven't put it in yet, it's a simple plug & play. But there really isn't any room left for electrical anything under the seat. It's very packed in there. Not sure how I'd fit anything else in there (yet).





Testing out the wiring first to make sure it's going to work. It does! Braking, signals, running lights and strobe on braking. The light array can be heated carefully and reshaped (only in a certain direction).





Left signal is on in this photo, along with the running light.





The piranha teeth were suggested by Chrome Glow so I could have a solid place to attach the light array under the fender. These particular piranha teeth are 50 degrees, but I still had to bend them slightly to get them just right. After fiddling with them and the fender on the bike, I realized this would be MUCH easier with the fender OFF the bike.





Gently shaping the light bar. Applying heat to the face (light side) carefully, evenly, and then gently bending into place.





Carefully test-fitting the piranha teeth in place, and gently bending the individual teeth to get a secure fit. Made from stainless steel. You can also see the 3M Adhesion Promoter Pad in the bottom left corner. Also suggested by Chrome Glow to really get the double sided tape to hold solid.





I used the 3M Adhesion Promoter Pad to clean the surfaces of the piranha teeth and the underside of the fender before installing the double sided tape. It's on there solid now.





Light bar "bent" into shape and installed. Looks great from underneath!





Rear view - I don't think it will be noticeable at all (when not lit up) on the bike.





Playing with wire routing ideas. I ended up settling for this - the stock rear fender wiring harness ran INSIDE this clear tubing, and was also inside another rubber conduit attached under the fender. I tried to recycle the rubber conduit, but removing the old double sided tape proved nearly impossible. This is a lower profile solution anyway. I was able to recycle this clear tubing, and using what was left from the 3M Adhesion Promoter Pad I cleaned the clear tube surface and the fender and got a good solid bond.





Fender reinstalled onto the bike. I like the look.

I'm really happy with how this light array worked out. I shot this video showing how it works and looks.


* * * EDIT * * *
Someone PM'd me asking how I had wired it, so I thought I'd share the response here.

The part numbers for my fat bob are all in the post above. They can be ordered from Chrome Glow's site. But I called them. They were SUPER FRIENDLY and helpful. They can help you get exactly what you want for your bike.

It was helpful to be at a computer when I called them so they could point me to specific parts on their site so I could see the pictures.

As for wiring it - it was CAKE. Here were the steps:

(1) Disconnect the rear fender harness at the main harness. I took the fender section and CUT IT leaving me about 5 inches of wiring to work with. You don't HAVE to do this, but I wanted to preserve the plug on the harness so that it could be disconnected and the fender removed completely if needed.

(2) Install the signal stabilizer at the main harness, right where you just unplugged the fender harness (depending on your bike YEAR you may not need this). This is literally PLUGGING it in. No wiring.

(3) Install the Fleekz module (this gave me the run/brake/turn and strobe all on that array). Wiring this was easy. The Fleekz module has wires coming out on two sides - an INPUT side and an OUTPUT side. Match the colors on the INPUT side of the Fleekz module with the colors on the 5 inches of wiring you left on the HD fender harness. Black to black, orange to orange, red to red, etc. The Fleekz module came with quick-connects, so it was super easy to connect and disconnect. I chose to solder my connections and use shrink tubing. Not required.

(4) Now we take the OUTPUT side of the Fleekz module and connect it to the LED array. There are 3 wires on the LED array - 1 black and 2 red. The black is ground, the 2 red wires run the brake, turns and running lights thanks to the Fleekz module. Just think of them as LEFT side and RIGHT side, don't worry about whether they are turn, or brake, or running light wires. There are 5 wires on the OUTPUT side of the Fleekz module. Because I did not have separate turn signal lights, I did not use 2 of the 5 wires. If you had separate turn signal lights and wanted those included in the run/brake/turn, you would use those 2 wires (I believe they were blue and yellow). So I matched the remaining 3 wires (of the 5) from the Fleekz to the 3 wires on the LED array. Black to black, and then the two turn wires to the remaining 2 red wires. Yopu have a 50/50 chance of getting the right or left correct. Just temporarily wire them using the quick-connects, and turn the bike key to ACC and try a turn signal. If the array lights how you like it, you're set. If not, you can either FLIP THE ARRAY over, or you can switch the two wires. The diagram included in the instructions makes it obvious. For the 2 wires on the OUTPUT of the Fleekz module that I did not use, I just bent them back and shrunk them inside some shrink tubing.






Tips for a smooth install
I made sure I pre-wired everything before I did any soldering (see pics above). When I was confident that my 'test' was perfect, I made notes how it was connected. This was very easy to do.

Pre-wiring it also let me see how the lengths of wires would work out and how much I wanted.

I was able to recycle the clear tubing that the stock wiring ran through on the old stock fender. That was nice and adds protection to the wires under the fender.

Take your time. If I can do it, anyone can.

 

Exhaust pipes removed, cleaning to prep for fiberglass wrap.





Completed / installed wrapped pipes.





Received my Alley Cat fuel and voltage meter gauge today. Still waiting for the matching fuel cap. 6 pages of instructions included! Very thorough - I'm impressed. This is my second Kuryakyn product (also installed black ISO grips) and I am impressed with the quality of both products. This product fits Dyna - the green and red PCBs you see at the top there are for different year ranges of Dyna. My '08 Fat Bob will use the red one. Installation was a snap. I had already removed my stock fuel gauge a while ago, so getting this installed consisted of (1) reading the instructions, (2) removing a nut under the new fuel/voltage gauge, (3) putting the red PCB in place under the gauge and securing with 4 washers/nuts, (4) sliding the wiring into the channel on the tank and pressing the gauge into place, and (5) attaching the AMP Connector properly and connecting it to the bike. Finally, I secured it with a zip tie to pull the wiring up under the tank and hide it.





Here's the fuel / voltage gauge installed (left).
This video shows how it works. It feels good to see this thing almost complete.

 

I have ordered 3 different seats for this bike to try on:

1. Le Pera Stubbs Cafe with grey stripes
2. Le Pera Silhouette Deluxe Solo
3. Mustang Wide Tripper (diamond stich)

Received another order from J&P Cycles today. This time it's a Le Pera Stubbs Cafe seat with grey stripes. The other seats are still on order, and with their awesome 90 day return policy, as long as the items are still unused/uninstalled, they will take the seats back that I didn't end up wanting. That way I'm able to test-fit them and see which one I like.

I thought that the Stubbs with gray stripes would look good with the silver/black theme of my bike. I put down some clean microfiber cloths to protect the seat during test fitting.





The stripes are definitely darker than my silver paint. Not sure if it adds or takes away from the bike.





I do like the look of the seat. It's very low profile.





From above, you can see just how narrow it is. The EFI and battery boxes both stick out. This isn't an issue for me with the forward controls, because my thighs are ahead and not down in riding position. When standing, my legs don't hit those box covers anyway.





The seat does has an exposed 'cavity' in the back though. This is a result of the seat being made for this bike with the stock fender, which I removed. My Voodoo fender is much lower, therefore exposing this gap.





I'm NOT SURE whether the included bracket will actually make it to this screw hole and close the gap, or if I'll have to have something custom-fabricated. In either case, the stock bracket is chrome, which I won't want. It will have to be painted or powder coated black.





There is definitely a problem with the DK Customs Products tank lift. I have a 1" lift on the back of the tank and a 2" lift on the front of the tank. I have the tank as far forward as it will go, and it's not enough to allow the front of the seat to install securely. Big problem. There is a very thick gauge metal tongue under the seat (felt covered - nice!) that should securely attach at this location. Because the tank lift hardware is making contact with the underside of the seat, it won't allow that tongue to get into the groove and secure the seat. If I choose to keep the seat, I may be able to (1) bend the tongue downward slightly or (2) weld on a new tongue that will reach. No matter which seat I go with, this rear-tank lift is causing a problem with installing the seats.

Is this just something you put up with to have a tank lift? Or is there a solution I'm missing?

What do you think of the look of this seat?

I like the look. It feels comfortable. My concerns are: (1) maybe it's too low profile and I'll get butt sore on long rides >1 hour, and (2) installation at the front and the back seems problematic.

 

Lookin' great, man! If that baby had a street bob front end, I would be in total lust

Keep up the good work!

 

Thanks HD. I appreciate it.