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Convert to Dual front dics with ABS

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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 01:17 AM
  #1  
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Default Convert to Dual front dics with ABS

Well I have been complaining that without dual front rotors my 2013 Bob has very poor braking. Harley should be ashamed.
I finally found a local shop that claims it can convert to dual abs. A lot cheaper than buying a new Low Rider and setting it up. I love my Bob, and have it set up the way I want. It took me nearly 2 years of looking and installing. Now for the last step. Essentially I am converting to a LR, but at the time I purchased, they did not have the current model. The conversion will include a new wheel, disc,caliper, brake cylinder and possibly new fork. I am sure there is more.
I will be taking the bike into the shop in October. They seem very competent and knowledgable. But I still worry and hope they put their actions where their mouth is.
Will post the dealers name and results if it comes out well.

I would appreciate any thoughts and advise on the conversion.

Roger
 
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 01:42 AM
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I don't have any advice on this, but I'm curious how the ABS conversion goes. I would imagine you need a control unit for the ABS as well.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 06:21 AM
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Where is this local shop?
 
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 06:28 AM
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You are looking at about 1300-1500 or so if you do it yourself. Shop will charge double probably for the time and tools. I agree with Harley needing to be ashamed. People will debate it all day... good for them. Do what you gotta do.


Need
  • Low rider sliders (best bet), fat bob sliders, or spacing on the right caliper or rotor (or both),
  • lines from an abs LR or fat bob or aftermarket dual abs lines (best bet for customization.
  • New rotor(s)
  • New pad(s)
  • Right caliper
  • New 11/16 master clylinder
  • fluids
  • Seals or rebuild kit, seals are included with new sliders.
  • Spacers if switching wheels. Street bob comes wit dual disk wheels, stock... not sure why the are telling you that you need a new wheel. .. unless youve changed from stock. Look at the right side of your wheel. There are 5 bolts holding on a disk. That disk comes off and the new rotor and bolts go there. Guess they are putting on actual low rider wheels front and back. If that is the case, then switching to an actual low rider might be cheaper. .. seriously. You'll need two new rotors and pad sets.
  • May want to beef up. You front suspension to handle the increased dive.

I guess the shop will deal with the abs module. Looking back, after doing this without abs a few times, i dont think it will matter to the abs once pressure is built up in the lines. May not require dealership / shop intervention. However the abs module has some algorithm that determines when there is hard braking based on speed and pressure in lines and blah blah... so i cant say for sure. Service manual states the need for the digital technican after molestation of the brake system.

The job is not hard, just takes time.

I can also say that you can beef up your brakes without going dual but, it will not be the same as duals.
 

Last edited by cvaria; Sep 6, 2016 at 07:08 AM.
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 06:52 AM
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Originally Posted by randyp
I don't have any advice on this, but I'm curious how the ABS conversion goes. I would imagine you need a control unit for the ABS as well.
No the abs unit on his bob just needs a stern talking to, maybe.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 09:05 AM
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What wheels do you have?

The stock street bob spoke wheel will take a second rotor.


I have been looking at this mod as well, and it really doesn't take all that much to get it done.


New master cylinder, rotor, caliper, pads, right side slider, and a Lowrider S front brake line.


It's rare, but have a look around for a complete LRS front end. I have seen a couple come up on classifieds due to people swapping out the front end for an inverted for setup.


St. Charles is a good source for part numbers.
http://www.stcharlesharleydavidson.c...partfinder.htm
 
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 09:56 AM
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I agree completely about the stock brakes. Shameful.

As an alternative you could take the cheapo route and just replace the one caliper with one that actually works and save a lot of $$. I made up a bracket and used a 6 pot Tokico caliper off a sport bike. They are much the same on many of them - mine was from a ZX900 but a Hayabusa uses the same ones.

The bracket took some work but I just had hand tools. The bike now stops well and the project cost was less than $100.

Improving the tires (radials!) and suspension are well worth the investment to help your braking too.
 
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Old Sep 6, 2016 | 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by neilpp
I agree completely about the stock brakes. Shameful.

As an alternative you could take the cheapo route and just replace the one caliper with one that actually works and save a lot of $$. I made up a bracket and used a 6 pot Tokico caliper off a sport bike. They are much the same on many of them - mine was from a ZX900 but a Hayabusa uses the same ones.

The bracket took some work but I just had hand tools. The bike now stops well and the project cost was less than $100.

Improving the tires (radials!) and suspension are well worth the investment to help your braking too.
Night dragons!
 
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Old Sep 7, 2016 | 02:29 AM
  #9  
rogersachs's Avatar
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Default Dual abs

Originally Posted by cvaria
You are looking at about 1300-1500 or so if you do it yourself. Shop will charge double probably for the time and tools. I agree with Harley needing to be ashamed. People will debate it all day... good for them. Do what you gotta do.


Need
  • Low rider sliders (best bet), fat bob sliders, or spacing on the right caliper or rotor (or both),
  • lines from an abs LR or fat bob or aftermarket dual abs lines (best bet for customization.
  • New rotor(s)
  • New pad(s)
  • Right caliper
  • New 11/16 master clylinder
  • fluids
  • Seals or rebuild kit, seals are included with new sliders.
  • Spacers if switching wheels. Street bob comes wit dual disk wheels, stock... not sure why the are telling you that you need a new wheel. .. unless youve changed from stock. Look at the right side of your wheel. There are 5 bolts holding on a disk. That disk comes off and the new rotor and bolts go there. Guess they are putting on actual low rider wheels front and back. If that is the case, then switching to an actual low rider might be cheaper. .. seriously. You'll need two new rotors and pad sets.
  • May want to beef up. You front suspension to handle the increased dive.

I guess the shop will deal with the abs module. Looking back, after doing this without abs a few times, i dont think it will matter to the abs once pressure is built up in the lines. May not require dealership / shop intervention. However the abs module has some algorithm that determines when there is hard braking based on speed and pressure in lines and blah blah... so i cant say for sure. Service manual states the need for the digital technican after molestation of the brake system.

The job is not hard, just takes time.

I can also say that you can beef up your brakes without going dual but, it will not be the same as duals.
Cvaria,
Thanks for the reply. I will show your post to the shop. I checked out my front wheel and there is no bolt holes on the right side. Its a cast wheel.I appreciate your help.
Roger
 
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Old Sep 7, 2016 | 02:36 AM
  #10  
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Default

Originally Posted by Maxxsmart
What wheels do you have?

The stock street bob spoke wheel will take a second rotor.


I have been looking at this mod as well, and it really doesn't take all that much to get it done.


New master cylinder, rotor, caliper, pads, right side slider, and a Lowrider S front brake line.


It's rare, but have a look around for a complete LRS front end. I have seen a couple come up on classifieds due to people swapping out the front end for an inverted for setup.


St. Charles is a good source for part numbers.
http://www.stcharlesharleydavidson.c...partfinder.htm
Maxx,
Thanks for the reply. I have cast wheels with no holes or bracket to hold a rotor on the right. Will show your post to the shop.
Thanks,
roger
 
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