Did a quick search (but probably missed it anyways)...I have the standard chrome fuel cap on a 2010 Dyna FXDF. Has anyone ever cut the top on this sucker (I've thought about mounting a coin in the middle). Once through the chrome metal cover, there can't be much below it?! Anyone done this before? Worse come to worse, if I screw it up, I'll just buy another Gas Cap.

 

Landmark Mfg. has custom gas caps...

 

I'm not sure if my response will apply to what you're doing, but I did gut my fuel gauge - it wasn't overly fun or easy to get the chrome off, but a flat blade screwdriver and some prying pops it off. I then took the electronics out, wrapped them in a rage and shoved them in the hole so I could use my RSD fuel cap and matching dummy cap. Being non-symmetrical would have driven me nuts.

BTW - I had the fuel/tach/speedo combo installed, so I needed the internals from the stock gauge to make the speedo fuel gauge work...

 

When I put the smooth caps on my WG I didn't like the low fuel light on in the dash. I didn't see a need for a fuel gauge, but didn't like the light.

I Ended up using a couple of resistors to make a voltage splitter. I didn't take time to engineer it, I just found what worked at the fuel level I had at the time. It worked out pretty good. No gauge and no light, just like the old days.

 

I didnt have any luck doing that on my Road King, we couldnt get you to share how you eliminated the fuel light via a resistor could we?

 

Yes, like the old days...but my old days were late 70's early 80's kawasakis with resrerves in the tank just in case you had a little too much fun with the throttle and your normal 200 mi/tank turned into 170... hehe.

As for resistors - I'd think if you could take a multimeter and measure the resistance of the gauge and buy some to match?

 

I used a 220 ohm between orange and yellow,and a 50 ohm between yellow and brown. The resistors are 1 watt, and 10 percent.

once in a while if I try to cram a few more drops of fuel into it, it will turn on the low fuel light until I ride a mile or so. This makes me think that if these were sized correctly the low fuel light may still function. Maybe it'd just be backwards. I may tinker with it over the winter.

 

<br /><br />taking a static measurement doesn't take into account that the power supplied is also running the gauge and the light. If you measure the resistance of the gauge you'll probably come up with some odd numbers that won't put the signal voltage where it needs to be.

 

Sorry guys. I got my quotes backwards. You get the idea.

 

I tried every variation to no avail. Ended up selling the bike with the light still on, I wasnt comfortable having to explain why to the new owner. Let us know with pics if you dont mind.