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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
I've had this issue for a while, but haven't really thought too much about it. Since I got my bagger, it's gnawing at me since the road glide is spot on...
My issue is the Dyna's forks seem to be slightly out of alignment. When riding in a straight line, the bars are cocked at about a degree or two to the right. If I let go of the bars, the bike tracks straight for a few seconds then slowly drifts left. I can't be 100% certain, because there aren't many perfectly straight roads around here, but it never drifted right, so it's gotta be off I think.
I didn't see anything in the service manual, and a search here didn't bring up any relevant posts. I'll check the Google next, but I was hoping the experts here may have some suggestions.
I didn't hit anything hard, but this is NY and our roads suck. Especially I95 which has some small mountains that can send you out of your seat if you're not expecting them. So who knows if something got knocked out of alignment - if that's even possible?
I'll be willing to bet money on those pathetic rubber bushing HD uses as the culprit here. Those dumb things can be distorted very easily as the bars are torqued down, they're awful; back off the riser bolts and tweak the bars straight and torque the riser bolts back down and see if you can straighten the bars/risers out.
You can solve that problem permanently with poly bushings or solid riser bushings. I love my chrome solids. No increase in vibrations and the bars/risers are rock solid and perfectly aligned.
Edit: I should add; I can lock the throttle and ride no handed for miles but I'll be using body position correcting for that left drift. That primary on the left side is heavy
Last edited by TinCupChalice; Nov 14, 2016 at 05:28 PM.
I'll be willing to bet money on those pathetic rubber bushing HD uses as the culprit here. Those dumb things can be distorted very easily as the bars are torqued down, they're awful; back off the riser bolts and tweak the bars straight and torque the riser bolts back down and see if you can straighten the bars/risers out.
You can solve that problem permanently with poly bushings or solid riser bushings. I love my chrome solids. No increase in vibrations and the bars/risers are rock solid and perfectly aligned.
Edit: I should add; I can lock the throttle and ride no handed for miles but I'll be using body position correcting for that left drift. That primary on the left side is heavy
Thanks Tin, but COME ON!!!! Do you really think I wouldn't already have poly bushings??? Sheesh. I get no respect.
I should mention - though it's harder to see, but i think the offset can be seen on the triples as well, so I don't think it's the bars themselves. Good info on the drift though.
Now we're learning things; you've got polys already. Hummm... have you measured fork tube protrusion on the upper clamp? Is it the same for both tubes? I don't know the spec for the S, on the Wide Glide it's 14mm from the upper clamp to the top of the tube cap.
Now we're learning things; you've got polys already. Hummm... have you meaasured fork tube protrusion on the upper clamp? Is it the same for both tubes? I don't know the spec for the S, on the Wide Glide it's 14mm from the upper clamp to the top of the tube cap.
I didn't measure, but it's uniform. That I can probably find in the manual, but I'm certain it's pretty flush. If it's equal, that's probably not the answer is it? I wonder, could the *** end be off causing the front to be cocked while going straight?
Maybe I'll try the easy option first and loosen the riser bolts and see if I can get it right. Maybe I'm dreaming when it comes to the trees. Who knows.
Last edited by Mchad; Nov 14, 2016 at 06:11 PM.
Reason: Fixing the continuing iOS autocorrect incorrectly autocorrecting
I didn't measure, but it's uniform. That I can probably find in the manual, but I'm certain it's pretty flush. If it's equal, that's probably not the answer is it? I wonder, could the *** end be off causing the front to be cocked while going straight?
Maybe I'll try and loosen the riser bolts and see if I can get it right. Maybe I'm defaming when it comes to the trees. Who knows.
When you look at the Dyna the frame and front end are considered one piece when it comes to alignment; it's the engine, primary, transmission, rear fork and rear wheel riding on the isolators. When you do the vehicle alignment the idea is to align the bits floating on the isolators with the frame and forks.
Are you saying the fork tubes themselves look tweaked when you're just sitting on the bike? I agree with you; loosen the riser bolts and see if you can align the bars/risers...
When you look at the Dyna the frame and front end are considered one piece when it comes to alignment; it's the engine, primary, transmission, rear fork and rear wheel riding on the isolators. When you do the vehicle alignment the idea is to align the bits floating on the isolators with the frame and forks.
Are you saying the fork tubes themselves look tweaked when you're just sitting on the bike? I agree with you; loosen the riser bolts and see if you can align the bars/risers...
TBH I can't see the fork tubes well enough when sitting to say. I don't think so, it's only when moving at speed do the bars look a degree off from perpendicular to the road.
When you look at the upper clamp you've got the bars, risers, bushings, and riser bolts; that's where the problem is. Drifting left, that makes sense; look at the bike from the front and see how the primary is sticking out compared to the right side; that primary has a bit of weight to it
If those bars are tweaked off when you're sitting on the bike it's right at the bushings, bolts, risers, and bars. And I'm still betting on bushings; loosen the riser bolts and re-position the bars with a tug and tighten and torque the riser bolts evenly and see what you've got
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