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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
Not much I've used red on, big nuts in the primary and the rear drive sprocket, can't remember using it on anything else on a Harley. I don't use a lot on those, either, just a drop near where it won't be spread much as it's tightened. I've pulled bolts where they were just soaked in that stuff, and even on a 1/2" or larger, it can peel aluminum threads off without heating first. I've never had hardware with blue come loose, and I've used a lot of that stuff.
Well, it's in the book that way. The bars are steel, so I'm hoping they survive. We'll see Friday.
I'll try the bushings first, the tree alignment may be all in my head, who knows.
No body has mentioned the possibility of your risers being twisted a little bit when you tightened your bar clamp so that the clamp is now holding the bars and risers cocked. My FatBob has 6 inch risers so it can easily happen with the original soft dampers. Also keep in mind that every time you check to make sure you've locked your front end, and every time you pull the bike off it's kickstand your twisting it all to the right. After I stand my bike up, especially if I had locked the front end, I sometime turn left to the stops and apply a bit of force back that way. I spent time one ride trying to get it straight by putting my front tire against a telephone pole. It's not THAT sloppy. That's when I re-clamped it straighter. Also the knurls in your handlebars will seat into your bar clamp a little so it's kind of important to have it all real straight before you tighten the clamp down hard. If it's off a bit it will want to slip back to it's crooked seat again like a cross threaded bolt. Anyway, don't look too closely for too long while your riding or it will get really twisted. lol Have fun.
No body has mentioned the possibility of your risers being twisted a little bit when you tightened your bar clamp so that the clamp is now holding the bars and risers cocked. My FatBob has 6 inch risers so it can easily happen with the original soft dampers. Also keep in mind that every time you check to make sure you've locked your front end, and every time you pull the bike off it's kickstand your twisting it all to the right. After I stand my bike up, especially if I had locked the front end, I sometime turn left to the stops and apply a bit of force back that way. I spent time one ride trying to get it straight by putting my front tire against a telephone pole. It's not THAT sloppy. That's when I re-clamped it straighter. Also the knurls in your handlebars will seat into your bar clamp a little so it's kind of important to have it all real straight before you tighten the clamp down hard. If it's off a bit it will want to slip back to it's crooked seat again like a cross threaded bolt. Anyway, don't look too closely for too long while your riding or it will get really twisted. lol Have fun.
No risers. One piece T-Bars.
Confirmed today that the bars are perfectly parallel with the top tree. The fork is indeed a couple degrees to the right when traveling straight down the highway, with only a very slight pull to the left which as Tincup indicated, can be offset with a lean to the right.
Next step is to make a rear wheel alignment tool to see if the wheel isn't true.
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