Being an intermittent problem makes troubleshooting difficult. I hate intermittent issues. Can you inspect the ring and spur hears without opening up the primary? Short of tearing up the inside of the primary with metal debris, I'd be tempted to abuse it until the problem develops a pattern or consistency. Cuss at it until then.

 

The new problem did, yes. I've been getting the intermittent (almost exclusively when hot - like when stopping for gas after a 5 min heat soak, etc.) slow turn over with vinerr since new (march 2016) which seemed to be reduced by the timing retard, bur the rat tat tat tat tat tat (grinding) issue is new. Got it maybe twice since I bought the bike, but had it two times in the last week.

haha, yeah. I love going to the service writer and not be able to recreate the problem. One time in June last, I went to have them look at the vinerr, and it wouldn't do it. Tech started it 10 times just fine. So I go in and pick up some crap from the parts dept, get on the bike, and bang, it does it.

At this point it always started, so I decided to just ignore it. But the grinding is something I don't want to ignore.

I'll change the tune and see how it runs for a while.

It's gonna dump 10" of snow on us on tues so I won't be out for a while anyway...

 

Just called my dealer to see if the high torque starter 31619-06A would fit even though it's not listed for abs equipped bikes and I was told there isn't enough clearance between the larger motor and the abs unit. But they want me to bring it in so they can test the ACR's and look at it.

I'm going to talk to the shop forman about whether he wants me to revert it to stock or leave the slightly upgraded battery and cables in place.

 

I would ask the Dealer to do a load test on the battery-not check voltage cold and bike off, but when they crank it. I have dealt with hard starting issues on big inch (up to 131"), high compression (up to 15:1), motors for more than a decade, and have ran 2 batteries connected, a 16 volt battery, a dozen different brand starters, all kinds of battery brands (both lithium and lead), compression releases, ignition retarded, cable upgrades-and the number one improvement was a big CCA battery (provided cables are tight and starter clutch gear isn't going south). A weak 320 CCA battery under load just won't cut it under heat soak conditions or if the battery is showing its age. Period. It puts a load on the starter, which can kick back, or not have enough to engage the jack shaft and ring gear for consistent, confident starting-under ALL conditions.
Antigravity makes a 24 cell 720 CCA that should fit in your Dyna battery tray.
I would be happy to make a bet with you that if you get one, put it in your bike, and hit the start button, that your bike will fire up as if it is on steroids, as long as your ancillary parts are solid.
The second best upgrade I have ever done to ease my starting issues is my EZ start cams. The combo of quality cables, big battery, EZ starts, and a strong starter in good working order (clutch gear not on its last legs-which a weak battery can do to it), will fire your bike all day, every day, under any situation, as it does my hi comp, 126" street bike motor. Since you already have ACR's, they have to be working properly or they are worthless.
Ask the dealer exactly how he will check that they are working.
As said, also make sure your ignition timing map is delayed a couple revs before firing or dialed in to ease the load on your motor.
You can also go to an All ***** 9 tooth one piece jack shaft (multiple coupling jackshafts are weak IMO), and a Rivera 66 ring gear, but a bad *** battery overcomes most all other weak areas in the starting system, using stock Harley parts, including the Harley starter, which is a good quality starter.

Sounds like you are determined to get this right, and no lame excuse from the dealer (they all do that), will cut it. Cool-
Best of luck and I look forward to hearing what they say.

 

had this issue yesterday Mcahd,

2017 LRS, brand new less than 500km's on it. It was a warmish day in Sydney yesterday so went for a ride with the guys. Got to a hill and stalled on taking off, probably rider error I'll admit. Went to start it in a hurry as I was holding up traffic. Terrible grinding/whirring noise and a puff of smoke out the intake/pipe.

Try again and same thing.

I wheel the bike to the side of the road, shut the ignition off, compose my thoughts and think how the f&(k am I gonna get home from here with my brand new bike that cost a bomb. Flick the ignition on, checked the DTC on the Powervision (fuel moto map by the way) and it said an error about "losing comms with speedo"

cleared the DTC, took a deep breath and it fired up as nothing was wrong..... And was faultless for the rest of the day.

My thinking was a combo of hurried start when hot directly after stalling and maybe the ring gear not been entirely squared away that caused the issue.

I'll be very wary of it next time.

 

I had the exact same problem. Had my bike in the shop 3 different times for the same issue. Ignition replaced. Nope!......two days later......no start...........replaced battery........Nope........next morning..............no start................finally Harley Corp. told dealer to just replace the entire starting system...........new starter, switches, and whatever else is involved, dealer said the bill would have been about $1800 (all under warranty).........took about a week to get the starter in.............since then everything is fine.

 

Hey, if the dealer is going to replace the entire starting system, on their dime, hell, why not?
Maybe the OP can get the dealer to do the same....either way, the usual BS dealer speak ("oh, that's normal, they alllllll do that, lol....), to just take sub-standard starting as "normal"...is ridiculous-
Anyone think a new Beamer, or Duck would have the same issue?

 

after reading motorcycle consumer news for the past 3 years or so I can safely say YES they ALL have their problems

 

My starter clutch went out after making that sound 3x's..

 

Regarding batteries - Just to make it clear, this happened with both the factory AGM as well as a brand new Yuasa GYZ20HL - which while not rated the crazy cca's of the big lithium's it is still higher then the factory battery.

I've been thinking about the lithium's for some time, but I still have apprehension about them based on the burning battery reports. Granted this seems to occur from overcharging/desulfating, which can be avoided by using the right tender of course.

I'd hate to cough up near $400 when the MoCo should be making this right, but its an option if all else fails.

I'm flashing my modded tune (retarded timing -3 deg in the starting area - 750 and 1000 rpm and 80-100 MAP kpa cells) today but its freezing and we're now looking at up to 2 feet of snow on Tues, so I won't be going anywhere anytime soon...