Getting tired of starting issues
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
So many are saying "dead battery" - just to be clear, it did that with the oem battery (came brand new with the bike last march) and again, same behavior from the brand new Yuasa I bought because so many were saying "dead battery" Both on tenders btw.
Do we really think I have two dead new batteries? I sure don't.
I appreciate that it sounds like a dead battery, but what would you say if you knew for sure that battery was working perfectly?
The grinding in video 1 sounds like a starter problem to me as well, so as soon as the snow melts I'm going to bring it in. I'm not going to pull apart my under warranty bike just yet.
Do we really think I have two dead new batteries? I sure don't.
I appreciate that it sounds like a dead battery, but what would you say if you knew for sure that battery was working perfectly?
The grinding in video 1 sounds like a starter problem to me as well, so as soon as the snow melts I'm going to bring it in. I'm not going to pull apart my under warranty bike just yet.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,448
Likes: 2,299
From: NW Ohio
The solenoid can pulse like that due to low current or voltage, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the battery causing the problem. Connections, both mechanical and electrical, servicable(nuts &bolts) and non(wire strands/crimps/solder/relays/etc), play a huge role in transferring the power without loss. I've seen corrosion, debris, insulation, shrink wrap, etc. cause the same symptom.
Given the list of work you've already completed I don't really think the battery is at fault. The starter cables seem unlikely since you also changed those, but who knows...maybe some paint or powdercoat on the starter/solenoid lugs...
Personally, my money is still on the controller(s) and/or ACRs.
Given the list of work you've already completed I don't really think the battery is at fault. The starter cables seem unlikely since you also changed those, but who knows...maybe some paint or powdercoat on the starter/solenoid lugs...
Personally, my money is still on the controller(s) and/or ACRs.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
The solenoid can pulse like that due to low current or voltage, but that doesn't necessarily mean it's the battery causing the problem. Connections, both mechanical and electrical, servicable(nuts &bolts) and non(wire strands/crimps/solder/relays/etc), play a huge role in transferring the power without loss. I've seen corrosion, debris, insulation, shrink wrap, etc. cause the same symptom.
Given the list of work you've already completed I don't really think the battery is at fault. The starter cables seem unlikely since you also changed those, but who knows...maybe some paint or powdercoat on the starter/solenoid lugs...
Personally, my money is still on the controller(s) and/or ACRs.
Given the list of work you've already completed I don't really think the battery is at fault. The starter cables seem unlikely since you also changed those, but who knows...maybe some paint or powdercoat on the starter/solenoid lugs...
Personally, my money is still on the controller(s) and/or ACRs.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,448
Likes: 2,299
From: NW Ohio
The compression check is fine but really only gives you the baseline numbers. One with ACRs active and one without. Unless/until you can check compression during one of the no-start episodes, the data means nothing.
Thread Starter
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Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
I think you've done as much as can be expected of an owner under warranty.
The compression check is fine but really only gives you the baseline numbers. One with ACRs active and one without. Unless/until you can check compression during one of the no-start episodes, the data means nothing.
The compression check is fine but really only gives you the baseline numbers. One with ACRs active and one without. Unless/until you can check compression during one of the no-start episodes, the data means nothing.
Stage I
Joined: Mar 2017
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
From: Wa State
Hey there, first post as this is exactly what i have been dealing with (well close eneough)
my problems are almost exactly like your second vid posted but with an added loud metal clanking type of noise at the end
first time the dealer replaced my battery as it tested bad and the BCM, problems came back in less then a month
now its back in the shop getting an entire new wiring harness
going to be close to 20 days in the shop for repairs by the time this is done and its definitely leaving a sour taste in my mouth (LEMONNNN)
i do really hope it gets fixed this go around the FXDLS is an amazing bike
good luck with your bike and i will post back with updates!
-ian
my problems are almost exactly like your second vid posted but with an added loud metal clanking type of noise at the end
first time the dealer replaced my battery as it tested bad and the BCM, problems came back in less then a month
now its back in the shop getting an entire new wiring harness
going to be close to 20 days in the shop for repairs by the time this is done and its definitely leaving a sour taste in my mouth (LEMONNNN)
i do really hope it gets fixed this go around the FXDLS is an amazing bike
good luck with your bike and i will post back with updates!
-ian
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,471
Likes: 6,342
From: pacific northwest
Hey there, first post as this is exactly what i have been dealing with (well close eneough)
my problems are almost exactly like your second vid posted but with an added loud metal clanking type of noise at the end
first time the dealer replaced my battery as it tested bad and the BCM, problems came back in less then a month
now its back in the shop getting an entire new wiring harness
going to be close to 20 days in the shop for repairs by the time this is done and its definitely leaving a sour taste in my mouth (LEMONNNN)
i do really hope it gets fixed this go around the FXDLS is an amazing bike
good luck with your bike and i will post back with updates!
-ian
my problems are almost exactly like your second vid posted but with an added loud metal clanking type of noise at the end
first time the dealer replaced my battery as it tested bad and the BCM, problems came back in less then a month
now its back in the shop getting an entire new wiring harness
going to be close to 20 days in the shop for repairs by the time this is done and its definitely leaving a sour taste in my mouth (LEMONNNN)
i do really hope it gets fixed this go around the FXDLS is an amazing bike
good luck with your bike and i will post back with updates!
-ian
I talked to a guy this past weekend that was running a dyno machine and asked him about the hot start issues. I don't remember all the details/specifics of the conversation, but the gist of it is, he said assuming that all the electrical components are good, the issue could be the lifter(s) bleeding down to quick. To troubleshoot this, push the start button and if it doesn't immediately crank to start, left off the button. Wait a second, and push it again. If it starts right up, then the lifter bleeding down is most likely the culprit. It doesn't mean the lifter(s) are bad though: you have to consider other things like push rod adjustment and any engine work that was done like bigger cams.
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Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 3,482
Likes: 631
From: NorCal Rocklin
These issue wouldn't come up if you just made it stock. It was fine when it was stock and now since you modified it, you are having issues. And now you want it to be warrantied? GTF Outta here man.
You should know the risks of modifying your bike and you pretty much voided your warrranty for that modified part. Bring the tune back to stock and see if you have that issue again. But the problem is now that you have this starting issue, it will not go away after bringing it back to stock.
I think it was mentioned that you may want to replace your compensator since hard starts tend to lead with bad ones.
Do you have a Lithium or AGM battery? Because it takes a few starts when you use a Lithium battery compared to a regular one
You should know the risks of modifying your bike and you pretty much voided your warrranty for that modified part. Bring the tune back to stock and see if you have that issue again. But the problem is now that you have this starting issue, it will not go away after bringing it back to stock.
I think it was mentioned that you may want to replace your compensator since hard starts tend to lead with bad ones.
Do you have a Lithium or AGM battery? Because it takes a few starts when you use a Lithium battery compared to a regular one
Last edited by vizcarmb; Mar 16, 2017 at 11:11 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 11,448
Likes: 2,299
From: NW Ohio
Unless I'm mistaken (it happens often), mchad was having issues prior to the tuner. This is becoming a rather widespread problem based on the number of threads and responses from others reporting the same/similar issue.
Tuning an engine to run cooler and smoother with reduced cranking pressures should not ever result in a no-start. I believe there is a systematic problem at the OEM level. Maybe a batch of bad starters or some overlooked failure mode of components unique to the 110... Dunno, but there is a problem.
Tuning an engine to run cooler and smoother with reduced cranking pressures should not ever result in a no-start. I believe there is a systematic problem at the OEM level. Maybe a batch of bad starters or some overlooked failure mode of components unique to the 110... Dunno, but there is a problem.
