Would you change the fork oil?
Stellar HDF Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 415
From: Southern Maryland
Look at forks
Get down on your knees, and look near the bottom of your forks, on the back side, just above the axle. If there is a #3 phillips screw with a brass/copper washer on the fork, that is the drain plug. Just remove it drain the oil into a container, and sit on the bike and work the forks until you know it's empty.
Then remove the fork tube cap and put some new fluid in, and drain that out also. Then reinstall the screw at the bottom, measure the correct amount for your bike, and pour it into the top of the fork, slowly, while working the fork gently.
Now with that said, I have no idea whether the fork tube cap is under pressure, so take care when removing the cap. My 2009 Ultra was not under pressure, so that's the only experience I have. Maybe look on You tube for a video. It is easy to do and not 4 hours work.
Then remove the fork tube cap and put some new fluid in, and drain that out also. Then reinstall the screw at the bottom, measure the correct amount for your bike, and pour it into the top of the fork, slowly, while working the fork gently.
Now with that said, I have no idea whether the fork tube cap is under pressure, so take care when removing the cap. My 2009 Ultra was not under pressure, so that's the only experience I have. Maybe look on You tube for a video. It is easy to do and not 4 hours work.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 8,742
From: Texas
Would you change the fork oil?
In a heart beat.., without even thinking about it
In addition - change out / replace / torque / tighten / oil / grease
Brake pads..., control cables (oil and adjust)..., carb..., plugs..., tires (potential dry rot)..., belt / chain..., every nut / bolt..., fuel system..., fuel filter..., every bearing / pivot point
iow - nose to *** - go over w/ fine tooth comb
As for the forks..., tear em completely down..., clean thoroughly..., rebuild
Upgrading to progressive is a good move - ONLY - if you correctly set the pre-load - otherwise - you'll be getting less than optimal benefit / preformance
Ghost
In addition - change out / replace / torque / tighten / oil / grease
Brake pads..., control cables (oil and adjust)..., carb..., plugs..., tires (potential dry rot)..., belt / chain..., every nut / bolt..., fuel system..., fuel filter..., every bearing / pivot point
iow - nose to *** - go over w/ fine tooth comb
As for the forks..., tear em completely down..., clean thoroughly..., rebuild
Upgrading to progressive is a good move - ONLY - if you correctly set the pre-load - otherwise - you'll be getting less than optimal benefit / preformance
Ghost
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 5,627
Likes: 1,382
From: Monroe, North Carolina
Would you change the fork oil?
In a heart beat.., without even thinking about it
In addition - change out / replace / torque / tighten / oil / grease
Brake pads..., control cables (oil and adjust)..., carb..., plugs..., tires (potential dry rot)..., belt / chain..., every nut / bolt..., fuel system..., fuel filter..., every bearing / pivot point
iow - nose to *** - go over w/ fine tooth comb
As for the forks..., tear em completely down..., clean thoroughly..., rebuild
Upgrading to progressive is a good move - ONLY - if you correctly set the pre-load - otherwise - you'll be getting less than optimal benefit / preformance
Ghost
In a heart beat.., without even thinking about it
In addition - change out / replace / torque / tighten / oil / grease
Brake pads..., control cables (oil and adjust)..., carb..., plugs..., tires (potential dry rot)..., belt / chain..., every nut / bolt..., fuel system..., fuel filter..., every bearing / pivot point
iow - nose to *** - go over w/ fine tooth comb
As for the forks..., tear em completely down..., clean thoroughly..., rebuild
Upgrading to progressive is a good move - ONLY - if you correctly set the pre-load - otherwise - you'll be getting less than optimal benefit / preformance
Ghost
Cruiser
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 115
Likes: 12
From: St. Louis
I went through a lot of this in this thread: https://www.hdforums.com/forum/dyna-...-s-repair.html
Page two has a lot of spacer length/preload work with a HD Progressive spring install.
Last edited by jeffr0000; May 25, 2017 at 01:41 PM.
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 2,530
Likes: 546
From: Wayne County, PA
+1 on new progressive springs. For under 100$ it's a night and day improvement. Be sure to measure the oil out of each side. Of one is drastically different the seal might be leaking.
My 1996 dyna the oil was black as night and there was maybe 8oz combined. Mine called for 9.8oz in each. Springs were toast. Good luck op.
My 1996 dyna the oil was black as night and there was maybe 8oz combined. Mine called for 9.8oz in each. Springs were toast. Good luck op.
HD Forum Stories
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
7 Times Harley-Davidson Chucked Tradition Out the Window
Verdad Gallardo
7 Surprising Harley-Davidson Products that Are Not Motorcycles
Verdad Gallardo
8 Best Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
10 Worst Harley-Davidson Motorcycles Ever
Pouria Savadkouei
Killer Custom's Jail Break Is The Breakout That Refused to Blend In
Verdad Gallardo
Crazy Bunderbike Build Looks Amazing, But Is It Impossible to Ride?
Verdad Gallardo
Harley-Davidson Reveals Super Cool Cafe Racer Concept
Verdad Gallardo
Engraved Rebellion: Inside Bundnerbike's Glam Rock II
Verdad Gallardo
10 Motorcycles You Should Never Buy
Joe Kucinski
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 4,384
Likes: 8,742
From: Texas
Jeffr added a link to his thread that does a good job of explaining - but if you have add'l questions - post em
Pre load - in a nutshell
There a couple of factors w/ setting the front suspension
Feel:
One end of the spectrum = plush feel (like riding in a caddy)
Other end of the spectrum = harsh feel (think riding a rigid.., or on a log wagon)
Then there's brake dive
====================
Some riders prefer plush (those who don't ride by feel)
Brake dive is maximum
And btw - plush is where I tend to dump bikes - I lose all sense of the bike / road
Those who ride by feel prefer sensitive
Minimal to no brake dive..., and just harsh enough..., to maintain a feel of the road..., and bike
Then there's harsh - feel every bump and hiccup..., pissin blood after a long ride...., no give when braking
=========================
Goal is - find the correct length of spacer - to provide the correct pre-load ..., that provides the type of ride you prefer
=============
It works the same for the back springs (although brake dive ain't a factor)
For the rear - it called setting sag
Measure the distance between the frame and swing arm - with the bike in the air (bike / suspension completely unloaded)
Distance = X
Then lower the bike to the ground..., and sit on it (iow load the bike's suspension)
Then measure that distance (same points between the frame and swing arm as for the first measurement)
Distance = Y
Looking for 3/4" to 1" difference between X and Y (the two measurements)
1" = plusher ride
3/4" = stiffer (more sensitive) ride
Less that 3/4" starts getting harsh
Pre-load in a nutshell
We can also discuss oil weight(s) and valving - but that gets a little complicated...., and especially w/ valving - is costly as hell
HTH Sir
Ghost