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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
On my new-to-me 2000 WG, I don't have issues with my forks at all, and no leaks, but was told by a friend that I might want to change the fork oil because of the age, it could be dirty and have condensation which can wear the seals out before their time. I have only 5K miles on the bike, and the manual calls for a 50K mile fork oil change. The service dept. quoted me 4hr labor-$400.00, plus parts. Would you change the oil or just keep riding it? Thanks!
On my new-to-me 2000 WG, I don't have issues with my forks at all, and no leaks, but was told by a friend that I might want to change the fork oil because of the age, it could be dirty and have condensation which can wear the seals out before their time. I have only 5K miles on the bike, and the manual calls for a 50K mile fork oil change. The service dept. quoted me 4hr labor-$400.00, plus parts. Would you change the oil or just keep riding it? Thanks!
You have no real history here; I'd change all fluids. Engine, primary, transmission, front and rear brakes, and the front forks. Your bike is basically 17 years old. That fluid in those brake lines and the front forks could be as well, you just don't really know
That's a beautiful piece of iron you've got; treat her right now. Do all fluids. You've already changed out the fuel petcock; I hope you used a Pingel, and not that pathetic HD vacuum diaphragm actuated POS
Edit: You can do this yourself. All you need is a proper lift, the service manual, and a few tools. 4 hours labor? I'd take 4 hours, but I'd be drinking a 6 pack at the same time This is easy peasy to do...
Last edited by TinCupChalice; May 24, 2017 at 05:34 PM.
I agree with TC here. Mileage is not a factor on anything 17 years old even with only 5K miles on the clock - unless you know the previous owner just did it. I'd go through everything.
You have no real history here; I'd change all fluids. Engine, primary, transmission, front and rear brakes, and the front forks. Your bike is basically 17 years old. That fluid in those brake lines and the front forks could be as well, you just don't really know
That's a beautiful piece of iron you've got; treat her right now. Do all fluids. You've already changed out the fuel petcock; I hope you used a Pingel, and not that pathetic HD vacuum diaphragm actuated POS
Edit: You can do this yourself. All you need is a proper lift, the service manual, and a few tools. 4 hours labor? I'd take 4 hours, but I'd be drinking a 6 pack at the same time This is easy peasy to do...
Thanks. Brake fluid is being replaced/lines flushed tomorrow. Didn't know about the HD diaphram. I was one hour from home waiting for the 5K service, and didn't see the leak until I got to the dealer. They had the part in stock, and I didn't want to chance it getting worse on the way back.
Thanks. Brake fluid is being replaced/lines flushed tomorrow. Didn't know about the HD diaphram. I was one hour from home waiting for the 5K service, and didn't see the leak until I got to the dealer. They had the part in stock, and I didn't want to chance it getting worse on the way back.
Good on the brake fluid, your life is riding on that bike; going fast is fun, stopping is even better I do my brake fluids every 12 months. The Pingel is a nice petcock, very well made. All of my carbed HD's get one; it's gravity fed, you block off the vacuum barb on the carb and it works flawlessly but the HD diaphragm petcock is new and shouldn't cause you any issues.
If you don't have one, get the service manual, along with the parts manual. It's some of the smartest money you're going to spend on your beautiful Wide Glide. You'll be surprised how easy it is to work on these bikes with a bit on information Between this forum and that service manual you can do just about anything
If you do it all now, you will know for certain. Otherwise, you are guessing.
If you are going to change the fork oil on a 18 year old bike, maybe it is time to consider rebuilding the tubes? It's not difficult and not expensive, and you will know it was done right. I did. But I learned not to use cheap metric replacement kits, get the good stuff.
The POS HD diaphragm that was discussed is the fuel petcock. The HD petcock opens when selected open and the engine is running, a vacuum opens the valve. The fork oil change on the 2000-2005 Dynas can be changed at home. Support the bike on blocks or something to get the front wheel off the ground. Remove fork caps (caution) they are under spring pressure, cover tank and fender! Remove little screw at bottom of fork leg and let the oil drain, replace with 12 ozs. of your favorite oil. I use Bel-Ray 10W fork oil. Repeat for other leg. JP Cycles has a socket and better fork caps with a button head screw that can be removed for future changes. Fork cap p/n 230-343.
The POS HD diaphragm that was discussed is the fuel petcock. The HD petcock opens when selected open and the engine is running, a vacuum opens the valve. The fork oil change on the 2000-2005 Dynas can be changed at home. Support the bike on blocks or something to get the front wheel off the ground. Remove fork caps (caution) they are under spring pressure, cover tank and fender! Remove little screw at bottom of fork leg and let the oil drain, replace with 12 ozs. of your favorite oil. I use Bel-Ray 10W fork oil. Repeat for other leg. JP Cycles has a socket and better fork caps with a button head screw that can be removed for future changes. Fork cap p/n 230-343.
Thanks much! I'll do it myself. I used to wrench my bikes back 70's...mostly metrics, but I'm a little intimidated by the Harley. With your description of fluid change, I think Harley is padding that labor charge way too much at 4 hrs!
Got my Dyna this past December with 7400 miles on it, even though the owner took great care of it I changed all the fluids. Just did the forks a week ago, never had done that before but with a few basic tools and the service manual it was no big deal. I went from the standard 5w oil to 10w and the bike rides a bit smoother now.
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