Adhesive remover dulled my paint!
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Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 48
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From: Edmonton
Adhesive remover dulled my paint!
Hey guys, I used some adhesive remover (3m) on my rear fender and it went OK. Used the same thing on my sissy bar and it dulled the paint in 2 big spray blotches... as if it just wiped away the gloss black finish.
Any tips to get the shine back? Specific types of gloss black spray paint or just gloss?
CHeers!
Any tips to get the shine back? Specific types of gloss black spray paint or just gloss?
CHeers!
Club Member
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 10,734
Likes: 3,755
From: SWFL
Hey guys, I used some adhesive remover (3m) on my rear fender and it went OK. Used the same thing on my sissy bar and it dulled the paint in 2 big spray blotches... as if it just wiped away the gloss black finish.
Any tips to get the shine back? Specific types of gloss black spray paint or just gloss?
CHeers!
Any tips to get the shine back? Specific types of gloss black spray paint or just gloss?
CHeers!
Since a sissy bar is a very visible component, how about getting it power coated? More durable if you strap bags to it, etc.
Road Captain
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 632
Likes: 86
You might be able to buff the dull portions out to gloss. You can buy polishing compounds and pads or you could go by an auto body shop. It would take them about 10 minutes and they have all the right equipment/supplies. Care should be taken on buffing sharp edges etc so as not to burn through the paint.
Your other option is to re-paint or re-clear-coat if this is a clear-coated part. This paint may be a single stage, non clear-coated, application. The re-painting option would be much more involved than simply a buff job. If you re-paint, an automotive chemically activated paint will look better and last much longer than a can of aerosol do-it-yourself paint.
If you decide to go the rattle can way, I recommend a first quality paint (Rustoleum etc) and I'd bake the part in an oven 200-250 degrees for about an hour after the initial curing.
Again, aerosol can paint will not be nearly as tough and scratch resistant as would any automotive mixed paint.
Your other option is to re-paint or re-clear-coat if this is a clear-coated part. This paint may be a single stage, non clear-coated, application. The re-painting option would be much more involved than simply a buff job. If you re-paint, an automotive chemically activated paint will look better and last much longer than a can of aerosol do-it-yourself paint.
If you decide to go the rattle can way, I recommend a first quality paint (Rustoleum etc) and I'd bake the part in an oven 200-250 degrees for about an hour after the initial curing.
Again, aerosol can paint will not be nearly as tough and scratch resistant as would any automotive mixed paint.
Last edited by leafman60; May 25, 2017 at 06:27 AM.
Extreme HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 10,216
Likes: 224
From: Glendale AZ
Wd40 is what I used and it works great on adhesive removal. It's also great for removing tar. Unlike your fender, the sissy bar may have been of questionable paint quality. Annoying results, sorry to hear about rhat.
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