Fatbob Vibration fixed
My jiffy block pin is pushed in from the rear to the front as well. Guess my '13 and your's had the same jiffy stand installer guy on the assembly line

Honestly, I thought all the Dyna block pins were pushed in from rear to front; I've had mine out and put it back just as I found it.
And, on your headshield clamp touching the brake rod; you will get some added buzzing or vibrations from that. The exhaust is mounted to the engine moving while the brake rod is stationary and part of the rolling chassis. Nice catch on that as well

Yes, it's part #22. That image is reversed but I'd bet your jiffy block pin is installed rear to front as well...
It's really hard to say with the rubber isolators; they can look fine yet still distort when you're riding. That HD service bulletin is a guideline but their solution of removing material isn't the true answer. Once the rubber begins to distort it never comes back again, it just continues to distort more.
I lost my original front isolator very early on and needed to do the vehicle/engine alignment and replace the isolator. I needed to shim the front isolator 1/4" to put the isolator where the alignment wanted it, and it did last for a time but I knew last fall it was failing again which is why I went to the Predator front mount this time.
I do regret I didn't do the Predator the first time, the difference is amazing. The bike took on a solid, firm feel. There was a slight increase in vibrations below 2500 RPM but not in a bad way, more of a connected way. It's hard to explain but I won't ever use an HD engine mount again

If that isolator is close to the engine bracket, and you've got a few miles on the bike, it's very possible as you're riding it can contact the bracket at certain RPM ranges...
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders


