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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
First, check the engine isolators, they can 'look' good but not always are they so. Double check your clearance between the rubber of the isolator and the engine bracket.
Second, change out those sad rubber riser bushings for either solids or poly bushings; those things are the worst. I'm running a Predator front engine mount, riser extensions, and solid bushings and can ride without any issues for hours, the vibrations are exactly how an HD should feel...
Thanks for posting this Darryl! I just started having vibration when braking this last weekend at just over 1k miles on my Wide Glide, I looked and sure enough there was no freaking clearance on my front mount. I did the T.S.B., and then took it for a spin. It was like new once again. Shortly i'll go with the Predator like you did.
Thanks for posting this Darryl! I just started having vibration when braking this last weekend at just over 1k miles on my Wide Glide, I looked and sure enough there was no freaking clearance on my front mount. I did the T.S.B., and then took it for a spin. It was like new once again. Shortly i'll go with the Predator like you did.
Nice! Glad the service bulletin helped you find the issue. I was at 600 miles on the ODO when my front isolator collapsed, so it does happen
I do mean it when I say I regret not going to the Predator mount right away, the Predator is such an upgrade from the OEM front mount.
Buy the Predator directly from the U.K. site, you'll have it in 3 - 4 days shipped FedEx international priority. With the exchange rate, exchange fee, and shipping I paid $ 233.33.
Ok guys, I finally got around to measuring the gap at the top of the front motor mount. It turns out that no matter the thickness of gauge, I get resistance when inserting the feeler gauge. I will assume that there should be an actual gap there so I should feel no resistance when I measure. I guess it's time for me to get one of those Predator Mounts huh? Is the UK site the only place you can buy them?
Yea, there should be a gap between the rubber of the isolator and the engine bracket; vibrations are being transferred in to the rolling chassis; you'll notice it at different RPM ranges and can experience decel shuddering.
Buy from the U.K. site. You'll receive it quicker, and the exchange rate works in your favor and saves you cash over the U.S. distributor.
The install isn't difficult, and you will feel the difference with a properly engineered front mount.
Thanks for everyone's help. I am not going to mess around and remove the mount and shave off rubber. Will be ordering the Predator mount on Monday.
It's really not hard to pull off and file off a little rubber BUT, I think it's only a temporary fix to a poor design. I just got thru ordering one from the link Darryl posted, and the amount I was billed was $248.83 at the current exchange rate.
Sorry guys to bring this thread to life again, but here we go, new ride Fatbob only has 1500 kms on the clock, and I started getting some more bad vibes in fingers and seat, so I looked at the front motor mount that was fine before, it had the space required, but now it was squashed against the frame no gap at all, so I loosened True track up and actually jacked the engine up so I got plenty of clearance, and then tightened it all up, I had to do this because everytime I lowered the jack with the block of wood engine lowered itself and left no clearance, so I had no option but to do it this way, then I went for a 30 minute ride, all vibes gone, looks like mount must be shot already, I am going to get a Predator next week, so I will have a True track front bracket surely available soon, as I will only need to keep the rear.
Sorry guys to bring this thread to life again, but here we go, new ride Fatbob only has 1500 kms on the clock, and I started getting some more bad vibes in fingers and seat, so I looked at the front motor mount that was fine before, it had the space required, but now it was squashed against the frame no gap at all, so I loosened True track up and actually jacked the engine up so I got plenty of clearance, and then tightened it all up, I had to do this because everytime I lowered the jack with the block of wood engine lowered itself and left no clearance, so I had no option but to do it this way, then I went for a 30 minute ride, all vibes gone, looks like mount must be shot already, I am going to get a Predator next week, so I will have a True track front bracket surely available soon, as I will only need to keep the rear.
You will like the Predator! I went for a 130 mile trip yesterday, and i'll have to say my bike was smoother than the day I got it. With that said, and what Predator says, it won't get rid of ALL vibration but will help. What I noticed was mine is very smooth every where except slightly above 2000 rpms- 2200 rpms, and the main place I pick up on it is in the foot pegs.
Well I pulled the trigger and ordered the Predator from the UK, lets see how long it takes to arrive in Germany, as soon as I have it installed, will give a writeup as usual.
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