cam tensioner?
Club Member
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 5,818
Likes: 3,816
From: Cape Cod
What year Dyna?
to get to the inner chain, the cam support plate has to come off......that requires the removal of the pressure from the intake and exhaust valve springs........so......YES........the pushrods have to come out......best thing is cut them out, then use adjustables.
to get to the inner chain, the cam support plate has to come off......that requires the removal of the pressure from the intake and exhaust valve springs........so......YES........the pushrods have to come out......best thing is cut them out, then use adjustables.
Last edited by MURPHCC1; Dec 6, 2017 at 08:15 AM.
Cruiser
Joined: Jul 2016
Posts: 213
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From: usa
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Several help links!
Personally, I'd change to gear drive!
Several help links!
Personally, I'd change to gear drive!
Outstanding HDF Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 2,840
Likes: 900
From: Philly Suburbs
Assuming you have OEM fixed pushrods now, you have a couple of different options. You can open up the the covers and cut the rods with a bolt cutter. If you do this, make sure the rod that you're cutting is on the cam's base circle so there isn't tension on it (basically, make sure the lifter is all the way down. You should be able to spin the pushrod by hand). The other choice is to remove the upper rocker covers and the rocker support plates, at which point the pushrods can be lifted out of the top, and later reused. If you cut the rods, you'll need to replace them with adjustable rods, or "quickee" rods. The difference is that quickee rods are designed to close enough that you can install/remove them without disturbing the lifter covers. Most adjustable rods can be installed/removed without opening the rocker covers, but usually require removing the lifter covers for clearance. The potential downside of the quickee style is that much of the rod is thinner, possibly causing some longevity concern with high-lift cams.
While you're in the cam chest, I would seriously consider replacing all of the cam bearings... They don't last forever, and you'll have the job halfway done already. Of course, the "while you're in there" logic may also cause you to consider cams as well...
While you're in the cam chest, I would seriously consider replacing all of the cam bearings... They don't last forever, and you'll have the job halfway done already. Of course, the "while you're in there" logic may also cause you to consider cams as well...
Seasoned HDF Member
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 5,465
Likes: 6,333
From: pacific northwest
what year bike is it?
reason for asking is I recently did a cam swap on my 2014 low rider and at 28k miles they looked almost new so if your bike is a newer one with hydraulic tensioners it may not even be necessary. did replace mine with a set of S&S tensioners ( they do not cost that much more than the HD ones) but had already purchased them before opening the cam chest. would have left the factory ones if had seen them before buying the new ones but at the same time did not want to have to open the cam chest for a long time.
reason for asking is I recently did a cam swap on my 2014 low rider and at 28k miles they looked almost new so if your bike is a newer one with hydraulic tensioners it may not even be necessary. did replace mine with a set of S&S tensioners ( they do not cost that much more than the HD ones) but had already purchased them before opening the cam chest. would have left the factory ones if had seen them before buying the new ones but at the same time did not want to have to open the cam chest for a long time.
Last edited by MRFREEZE57; Dec 6, 2017 at 10:04 PM.
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