drive belt replacement
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 64
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From: milwaukee
drive belt replacement
I have a 1998 dyna wide glide. I choose to replace the drive belt because of the age of the belt and also decided to replace the front pulley because of the rusty condition. I have decided to leave the rear pulley alone. I have not done alot of my own wrenching since i have had the bike a couple of years and would appreciate some advice from more experienced bikers. The first question is trying to take off shaft nut on front pulley is there any way to remove other than buying that specialty tool to remove it. When replacing front pulley should i replace with the same 32 tooth pulley or change the tooth count .....can i just buy the pulley and use the old retaining plate and screws ? where on the internet would be a good place to buy the drive belt and pulley that i would need
Club Member
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 66,096
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From: Niles Canyon Ca.
Doing a belt & front pulley isn't a beginners job and there's special tools & pullers involved and no you need the $$ socket to do the trans nut, hammer & chisel ain't going to get it. Also you do one pulley you should change out both with a new belt, several reasons why. Do yourself a favor go find a local indie shop and have them explain what all is involved in doing it on your bike before you attempt getting busy.
Oh and welcome to the forum.
Oh and welcome to the forum.
Intermediate
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 32
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From: Indiana
I know mines a 98 super glide and not the wg but our engines should be the same ( 80 C.I. Evo ) and I highly advise taking it to a shop and have it done especially if your unsure or haven't turned a wrench in a while. Your entire primary will have to come off to gain access to the pulley....now this may sound simple...until you realize how many parts are actually involved. To keep it simple you'll need to remove the following...
outer primary cover,
clutch basket,
compensator sprocket
primary chain tensioner
inner primary cover.
and anything else that may be in the way such as controls or pegs or whatever, in my case it was pegs and shifter. Oh and all that just gives you access to the belt pulley. So my suggestion is find a good tech who knows these engines and pay him/her to do it. Less head aches.
outer primary cover,
clutch basket,
compensator sprocket
primary chain tensioner
inner primary cover.
and anything else that may be in the way such as controls or pegs or whatever, in my case it was pegs and shifter. Oh and all that just gives you access to the belt pulley. So my suggestion is find a good tech who knows these engines and pay him/her to do it. Less head aches.
Ultimate HDF Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 5,014
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From: Northern California
As others have stated this is not the job to cut your teeth on. Here is a video showing all that is involved less the front sprocket removal and reinstall.
Here you can see the tools you will need and what they cost: http://georges-garage.com/trans_pre_o7.htm
Add to the tools the cost of parts, fluids, gaskets, and of course a service manual.
Here you can see the tools you will need and what they cost: http://georges-garage.com/trans_pre_o7.htm
Add to the tools the cost of parts, fluids, gaskets, and of course a service manual.
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Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 64
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From: milwaukee
thank you for your reply i should have been more clear. I bought this 98 two ago with 23000 miles i decided that i did not know what was done on this bike so i started to do a 20,000 mile maintenance on this bike. I had to take the swingarm (bearings) the rear wheel and exhaust off and thought since i had gone this far i would .attempt to change the drive belt although it still looked good but figured it was 20 years old and did not want to get stranded when taking a long trip. I started before winter and took it apart little by little at times i wanted to stop and put it back together but persisted . Last week i finally got down to the drive belt and realized the sprocket although functional was rusty. I decided to get a liitle advice on what i should do and the result was to change both pulleys but when i started looking in to the cost belt $ 165 front pulley $ 128 rear pulley $ 200 + it was more than i wanted to spend for preventive maintenance. I have to put a new exhaust on the bike so thats more money . The options i have are to put the bike together without changing anything . Change just the front rusty pulley and not the rear pulley which looks good and the belt or change both pulleys and belt . I wish that i had not started this project but i did receive the experience of being able to go this far with being a beginner wrencher . I would like to know the reason for changing all the pulleys your advice was excellent just don't know what the best way to proceed.now is
Road Master
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,246
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From: Belle River Ontario
If your changing the belt, it is highly recommended to change BOTH sprockets...they wear together, putting a new belt on old sprockets will just wear the belt out quicker...
new sprockets and old old belt seems to be ok...but I would not do it.....
as as for the job, yes you need tools...specific ones....if your tight with a shop they might rent or loan you what you need.....
new sprockets and old old belt seems to be ok...but I would not do it.....
as as for the job, yes you need tools...specific ones....if your tight with a shop they might rent or loan you what you need.....
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Elite HDF Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 4,440
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From: Northwest
Get some naval jelly and take the rust off the front sprocket.
I've got over 70K miles on my belt and sprockets. I might change them out next year.
I've got over 70K miles on my belt and sprockets. I might change them out next year.
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Joined: Jun 2014
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From: NW Ohio
Yup, I'd just clean up the front sprocket, hit it with some rust converter, and let it run. I'm with you on the age of the belt, tho. I'd have to seriously inspect it for dry rot before clearing it. Kinda depends on how/where it was stored.
You WILL need the special tools specific to your bike. Countershaft socket, sprocket locker, and primary chain locker. Also, a stout impact gun is highly recommended. Oh, and a big torque wrench. I can't remember the toque values but I think one was in the neighborhood of 150 pound foot. And red Loctite.
It's not a technically difficult job but the cost to DIY one time (because of tools) ~can~ be more than just paying a shop. Course, if you intend to do it a couple times, or sell/rent the tools, that equation changes.
You WILL need the special tools specific to your bike. Countershaft socket, sprocket locker, and primary chain locker. Also, a stout impact gun is highly recommended. Oh, and a big torque wrench. I can't remember the toque values but I think one was in the neighborhood of 150 pound foot. And red Loctite.
It's not a technically difficult job but the cost to DIY one time (because of tools) ~can~ be more than just paying a shop. Course, if you intend to do it a couple times, or sell/rent the tools, that equation changes.
Grand HDF Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 3,651
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From: DFW
You WILL need the special tools specific to your bike. Countershaft socket, sprocket locker, and primary chain locker. Also, a stout impact gun is highly recommended. Oh, and a big torque wrench. I can't remember the toque values but I think one was in the neighborhood of 150 pound foot. And red Loctite.
It's not a technically difficult job but the cost to DIY one time (because of tools) ~can~ be more than just paying a shop. Course, if you intend to do it a couple times, or sell/rent the tools, that equation changes.
It's not a technically difficult job but the cost to DIY one time (because of tools) ~can~ be more than just paying a shop. Course, if you intend to do it a couple times, or sell/rent the tools, that equation changes.