Valleyofthegun 2012 FXDB Street Bob build thread
The only stupid question is the one never asked. I also need to grasp the function of a thing in order to feel confident working on it. Usually a teardown and/or exploded view is enough but sometimes ya just have to reach out to the experts.
The gloss black is definitely more sensitive but it polishes out good. Treat it just like black paint.
Tuesday morning only minutes after putting up my last post, I was informed that a neighbor of mine had killed his 2 month old son. According to police Alex, the suspect, admitted to violently shaking the baby because he couldn't get the baby to stop crying. Police state that Alex later called 911 when he noticed the baby was no longer breathing.
I apologize for sharing this here but it is really eating me up. There is few things that can really get under my skin but being cruel to animals, women and children/babies a few of them. I think the other reason why the event is bothering me so much is because the few times I did see the guy I could tell he had deep rooted anger. I think having been aware that and now knowing what he did, part of me feels like if only I could have done something. I know my feelings are illogical but the feeling is still there.
I didn't feel like working on the bike at all on Tuesday but tonight I managed to motivate myself to get some work done.
As soon as i started working I instantly encountered that my riser bolts were an inch too long. This was a problem that I had anticipated. My risers are from Joker Machine. I had found some LA Customs 3" riser bolts for half off on Ebay. I called JM but they weren't able to give me the correct size needed. The correct size is 2" to 2-1/4, so I broke out the angle grinder with a cutting wheel and I cut them down to size.
I got the risers mounted and torqued to spec. I had to temporarily throw my new bars on to ensure the risers were straight while I torqued them down, so it was damn satisfying finally seeing the bars mounted, even if it was only temporarily.
I still need to get my front turn signal wiring figured out and the wires pulled back through the new bars. I worked as a AC and DC electrician for over fifteen years but when it comes to automotive/ motorcycle wiring I know very little. I only recently learned how to solder from watching youtube videos.
Maybe some of you can give me some advice. The bike came with the front turn signals in the mirrors. The glass popped out of the rightside from the accident. HD wants 280$ for a new set and I don't really care for them. I want to mount indiscreet turn signals on the tubes or on the trees.
I ended up cutting the left mirror/signal loose by cutting the two wires running to the turn signal.
I know that the line power for each signal goes to the corresponding switch. You then hit the switch and power flows from the line side to which ever turn signal you have turned on. I thought that my current mirror/signals also worked as marker lights that stayed on constantly but I only saw two wires. If they were constantly hot I would think there would be a third wire? I attached pics so you can see what I am trying to describe. If anyone has any insight it would be greatly appreciated.
I also came across a HD Forum post where a member said that there is a secondary set of wires capped off in the frame already ready to go because so many people do turn signal relocation. I haven't confirmed this yet, tomorrow I will break out my meter and start testing.
Good night, yall.
Look at those bars! I fell in love with them the first time that i saw them on one of Pete Peirson of Rocket Bobs bike builds. The funny thing is, i seem to be the only one that does live them. Screw em, they can buy their own bike and run what ever bars they want.
Mirror with internal forward facing turn signal
The two wires poking out to the right that still have the heat shrink on them are the two that i snipped to remove the mirror. They will be the two that i need to lengthen and feed back through the bars to provide power to my new turn signal. I will have to break out my meter tomorrow and start testing.
The bars really accentuate the new wide glide front end. The Joker Machine grips are going to look great on the Zombie bars.
Does anyone know the correct type of wire harley uses?
Also, does anyone know the correct gauge. I am.talking about the wires that run from the switch to the light
Personally, I prefer silicone insulation with a very high conductor count because it's super flexible and I'm usually working hard to hide the wiring.
I'm not sure of the OE gauge for your job but there are various calculators and reference tables on the web so you can reverse engineer it.
You can get a nice variety of short sections (<25') of wire from eBay or Amazon. Sometimes you can get short lengths from Mouser or Newark or Digi-Key, but it's hit and miss. They prefer to sell bigger reels, but they do have the best quality and selection.
If you're doing a full wire harness, there are a couple places that sell wire "kits" that can come in handy...but It doesn't sound like you're in that deep...yet...
Last edited by cggorman; Jul 5, 2018 at 08:23 PM.
I have joker machine turn signals mounted on the fork trees, very bright an discreet enough. I would go for JMs other turn signal option over these as I think they have better quality LEDs
What are your thoughts on the 200mm rear tire? How does it handle? Do you feel it handles better, worse or was there no change?
How has the voodoo fender been for you? Does it ever work its way loose? Is there any negatives by adding it?
I bought the fender because I love it but also because the chances of ever finding another one for sale on this side of the pond is slim to none.
I haven't 100% mentally commited myself to cutting my rear struts yet. The fender was in an accident, so I figure I will fix it up and then decide if I want to mount it. I love the look but cutting them struts is a permanent commitment.
The Best of Harley-Davidson for Lifelong Riders
I have also been looking at Custom Dynamics 49mm wrap around, hard mount lights but after shipping they come to 280$.
Unfortantly I don't have the budget for neither of the two choices. I think I'm going to buy some temporary 20$ jobbies until I get some of my left over parts sold and I can afford the ones I want. I had found these lights a few months ago but I saw cggorman recommended to another member in a post I came across recently. I figure they will work in the mean time.
I do have to say Joker Machine does make some quality stuff. I have noticed the machining on the JM risers and the grips/throttle I bought are impeccable.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Motorcycle-Signal-Indicator-Blinker/dp/B00SA9X0CI
Last edited by Valleyofthegun; Jul 7, 2018 at 12:39 AM.
The turn signal leads run directly out from the switches. I had got it in my head that they led back to the neck first and that you had to tap into them in the their.
Here is my right and left side hand controls together. There is six wires total. Both sides have a blue and a black wire. The left side also has a purple wire and the right side has a brown wire. Black is negative, blue is constant hot to allow the signals to also run as always illuminated marker lights and the brown and purple make either light blink. That's it, it's that simple. I now feel like a fool for stressing the issue so much.


