I may be an *******, but some village is missing their IDIOT.

I WILL shift my harley as I want to.

Sure I'll take a class and learn how to drive Big, Non-Sync. transmissions (actually, don't have to as I have a CDL), or D9s (hint - they have hydrostats and do not need friction plate clutches).

Be sure to adjust the FluxCapasitors as you get on your Starship and pontificate (I know, big word) to less civilized cultures about things that you are truly clueless about.

As the song goes, "Were you born an *******, or did you just work on it your whole life...

 

That IS a big word!

 

Is Intellectualism a big word too? LOL
Do automatics have clutches? (Hint yes)
However, I am pretty sure your sprag clutch has let go!
Do you want to brag what you know about transmissions here? LOL
Is that your goal to describe overrunning, one way, variable vane semi-articulated linear actuated stator?
Are you wishing to Write a synopsis of them?
To impress me/us?
you hardly will.
Some of us have been around a while
Engines define transmissions-every engineer knows that.
See if your braggart mind can define that.

 

MMH, as someone else posted: check your clutch adjustment(s).

If you can shift more smoothly without using it, it is an indication you may have something out of whack. Have you gone through and checked everything already? Simple things like the amount of slack in the cable and the adjustment bolt, or heck even too much fluid may cause that. You need to eliminate the possibilities of a mechanical issue before proceeding further.

Sorry you are not getting the warm fuzzy responses it appears you were hoping for but when you start a thread with "Dumb question. . . " you will bring out the best in some of us (in other words, you kind of invited it).

 

I drop into 1st right before I come to a complete stop... but by that time I already have the clutch in.... probably no more than 1-2 mph.

 

This is because you are not pulling engine rpm up at the same time you pull the clutch in and shift down. The point is to match engine speed with the gear and your forward speed... just like a truck.

I shift down all the time... smooth as glass. "pull/blip - shift", I do that to all the gears except 1st... when I'm in second I'm rolling to a stop.. when I'm about at 15mph, I pull the clutch in and just before I stop, I shift to 1st, with the clutch still in. Easy-peasy.

These trannys have been called 'dumptruck trannys' for a reason - they really won't last long power shifting.

 

Preloading the shift peg made a world of difference. It's not that the shifts were not smooth when I was using the clutch, just that when I let the clutch back out the clutch would slip as I would get back on throttle. Preloading eliminated the clutch slippage - almost as smooth and quick as shifting w/o the clutch. Thanks for the advice.

 

Good point. The rough downshifts happen when I get lazy and just tap the shifter down w/o bringing the revs up. When I am in a more spirited riding mood (and paying attention to my riding), the down shifts are buttery smooth. Good shifting tips on how to get it down to 1st.

I'm actually very surprised as to how smooth this transmission and clutch is. Better than some metrics that I had. Roughest bike transmission that I ever had was on a BMW R1150R. Felt like a truck transmission. Then again, that bike had a dry clutch too.

 

The rev match is probably more finicky with a torquey V-Twin than a high revving 4.

The slipping is a concern, tho. Sounds like the clutch may need some TLC or an upgrade, depending on what has been done to the engine. Clutch upgrades seem to usually start at around 120 lb-ft of torque.

Make sure your primary fluid is the correct type. No friction modifiers. Lots of people like ATF.

 

Preloading the peg does help greatly; it doesn't take much pressure, just enough to take the slop out. You can adjust the friction zone at the clutch lever by how you set the adjustment of the pushrod at the clutch pack. With my ride now triked, I've altered my friction zone so it's further out from the grip. On an upshift or a downshift it just takes a quick stab at the lever using only 2 fingers for smooth shifting, the lever doesn't actually come all the way back to the grip unless I'm at a full stop. HD recommends a 1/2 to 1 full counter-clockwise turn of the pushrod screw from light seat. A 1/8 to 1/4 turn of the adjusting screw reduces your friction zone and the clutch lever is almost all the way out from the grip before the clutch engages, a 1/2 turn is fine for most riders and with a 3/4 to 1 full turn the clutch lever releases closer to the grip. Past 1 turn out you may not have complete separation of the discs.

This is a decent article explaining rev matched downshifting; it's becoming a lost art http://www.trackdaymag.com/categorie...for-downshifts