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probably closer to 3/16th which doesnt sound like much at all but makes a lot of difference. now that you bring up the pulley spacer i have a .20 spacer for that belt...otherwise it hits the tire. but...how the hell do you center the pulley now because you lose your centering ring
and both the pulley holes and the spacer holes are bigger than the bolts.
as long as i machine the outside of the caliper bracket and then maybe grind some on the tab for it....increase the left side spacer i should be ok... aside from getting the pulley to run true..
thanks for all your comments btw
I had the same task with a 17" x 6" rim....build a .250" spacer with centering bosses and sleeve the pulley to .440" to fit the longer shank ARP bolts that are .437" I also machined the caliper slot and tab but did not have to shorten swing arm tab
...
my other thought is that the wheel was never centered to begin with and was just less noticeable with the narrower tire.
as far as figuring out an offset dimension for that wheel im not sure how u would go about that other than centering it because no wide glide hub ( dyna) used a 6in wide wheel.
In your case, you would figure it by taking 1/2 of the difference of "B" between the two rims and Add it to "A" ("A" = Published WG Spec of .615 - .645" )
If you had thought to check your original "Centering", you would add or subtract the amount needed from the calculated value above to achieve"Nirvana"
Originally Posted by sickistrick
is it possible they put the rotor and pulley on the wrong sides?...
No, Not really possible ... (Unless you were really committed )
Originally Posted by sickistrick
looks nice...so you machined the caliper slot deeper? can you elaborate on that? i was afraid of going deeper, didnt want to weaken it.
It may help you "get your head around" the question/decision of possibly making the caliper weaker with some machining by "Thinking About" that IF your bike only had to move forward AND the caliper was initially positioned correctly before clamping down the axle ... what exactly is the slot and lower half of the bracket doing for you?
Now, I'm Not in any way suggesting you remove all that Area, just discussing Concepts
In your case, you would figure it by taking 1/2 of the difference of "B" between the two rims and Add it to "A" ("A" = Published WG Spec of .615 - .645" )
If you had thought to check your original "Centering", you would add or subtract the amount needed from the calculated value above to achieve"Nirvana"
No, Not really possible ... (Unless you were really committed )
It may help you "get your head around" the question/decision of possibly making the caliper weaker with some machining by "Thinking About" that IF your bike only had to move forward AND the caliper was initially positioned correctly before clamping down the axle ... what exactly is the slot and lower half of the bracket doing for you?
Now, I'm Not in any way suggesting you remove all that Area, just discussing Concepts
The slot not doing much but the lower tab, with creates the slot is for when the bike rolls backwards. Also most every time I'm on a hill I use my front brake
Yeah, that's why I said ... "...IF your bike only had to move forward ..."
I would imagine that it is Not asking much of that "Area" when used in the other direction even with Slide-Hammering the Brakes
.
That's what I'm saying "The slot not doing much but the lower tab, with creates the slot is for when the bike rolls backwards. Also most every time I'm on a hill I use my front brake "
So really, we're saying the same thing and in agreement
Hmm, maybe this was it? ... I wasn't really asking "what exactly is the slot and lower half of the bracket doing for you?" ... that was a Rhetorical question ... I wanted the OP to think about the Concept
But I guess... Thank-you? ... if that's what you thought
.
Last edited by multihdrdr; Sep 4, 2018 at 09:55 AM.
What I don’t get is why, if the OP is using his stock hub and spacers, doesn’t the caliper and the disc automatically line up. The rim has nothing to do with hub-to-disc spacing. The spoke lacing can put the rim anywhere but the hub is static.
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