Crossbones wheel/dyna hub alignment

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Sep 10, 2018 | 06:05 PM

#41

sickistrick

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From: utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue Bob

" jump on it hard about 3 times it starts grabbing but normal pressure" do you mean to pump up the brakes?

Sounds like caliper bracket is still in a bind.

its like the pads either aren't biting or pressure is restricted getting there? the pedal isn't spongy or anything, it just takes a lot of effort, and the initial effort doesn't seem to do much...but if I kick down on it hard repetitively about 3 times....each time feels better. With the tire off the ground and spinning the tire I had very minimal brake drag, mostly just the sound. I could move the pads a small amount but they are close to the rotor, so not a lot of room for movement. I bound the tire up against the brake line a couple times right where it has the thick spot that sits in the little clip on the swing arm, maybe it damaged it....cant tell looking at it.

Sep 10, 2018 | 10:33 PM

#42

Blue Bob

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From: Lawrenceville Ga.

I would take anti rattle bumper out of bracket, do a mockup of the rear wheel, don't fully tighten axel bolt and make sure the caliper bracket is free and not bound.

Sep 10, 2018 | 10:37 PM

#43

sickistrick

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From: utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue Bob

I would take anti rattle bumper out of bracket, do a mockup of the rear wheel, don't fully tighten axel bolt and make sure the caliper bracket is free and not bound.

so heres what i just checked before i read your msg. the rear part of my caliper floats/has movement in it. i can move it quite freely and touch the brake pedal and it stops it from moving instantly, let it go and its free as a bird again.
wondering if maybe i just need to scuff the pads up or something.

Sep 10, 2018 | 10:51 PM

#44

sickistrick

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it looks like i may have to "align" the caliper since i had it completely off.....which i didnt do.

Sep 10, 2018 | 10:51 PM

#45

Blue Bob

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From: Lawrenceville Ga.

Quote:

Originally Posted by sickistrick

The caliper may float but the bracket can be bound. I had to trim mine several times. Yours sounds just like mine did.

Sep 11, 2018 | 09:31 PM

#46

sickistrick

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From: utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by Blue Bob

The caliper may float but the bracket can be bound. I had to trim mine several times. Yours sounds just like mine did.

i'll find out soon enough. but on mine the caliper to rotor distance shouldnt have changed since the only thing i milled was the outside of the bracket. (and the frame tab and the pad that sits against the frame)

i just opened up the stock washer hole enough to fit over the arp bolts. tomorrow i'll drop the wheel down, lock tight the bolts in and align the caliper.

Sep 11, 2018 | 09:36 PM

#47

sickistrick

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From: utah

Quote:

Originally Posted by cggorman

Bravo! What was your solution?

I'm using ARP bolts without washers and haven't had any issues, but I'm also not using the stock pulley or rotor. I wouldn't blink an eye with the stock rotor, but the pulley may be quite a bit softer than my 7075 rear sprocket. I could see it losing clamping force without a bit more surface area.

Easiest way to open up hardened washers is on a lathe or drill press with a 3 jaw table and a carbide drill. Any machine shop could knock them out in a few minutes

i just had a new spacer for the left side cut. milled the outside of the caliper bracket. milled the caliper bracket where it sits against the frame and cut the frame tab down.

i could have probably just ran the arp washers but since there is such a nice pedestal for the factory washer i wanted to re use them if possible.

as far as the washers....i went about that all *** backwards ....tried reg drill bits..no go...step drill bit would have worked but it went dull after the first one....finally just used a carbide cutter to open it up and then rounded it out with the step bit.

Sep 11, 2018 | 09:41 PM

#48

sickistrick

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From: utah

also my bike sitting so low actually helps because the fender bolts sit below the widest part of the tire and all my travel is downward where i gain more clearance. also with the plate/turn signal relocater bracket it puts my wires a bit behind the tire and and out of the way. the few inches of wire that was exposed i dealt with by cutting the aluminum backs off two dead phones and jamming it down into the rails inside the fender and putting the wires behind it. with some tape covering the home made shield.