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What I dont get is why, if the OP is using his stock hub and spacers, doesnt the caliper and the disc automatically line up. The rim has nothing to do with hub-to-disc spacing. The spoke lacing can put the rim anywhere but the hub is static.
What at am I missing here?
its called a straight forward plan/theory that by all concepts should fall right into place, before murphy law takes effect. unfortunately murphys law is strong when i attempt things.
basically multi is correct as far as damage control and just spacing things to where the wheel sits now. plus i have zero room under the fender because i run a turn signal/relocation bracket that also takes up space under the
the fender.
In your case, you would figure it by taking 1/2 of the difference of "B" between the two rims and Add it to "A" ("A" = Published WG Spec of .615 - .645" )
If you had thought to check your original "Centering", you would add or subtract the amount needed from the calculated value above to achieve"Nirvana"
No, Not really possible ... (Unless you were really committed )
It may help you "get your head around" the question/decision of possibly making the caliper weaker with some machining by "Thinking About" that IF your bike only had to move forward AND the caliper was initially positioned correctly before clamping down the axle ... what exactly is the slot and lower half of the bracket doing for you?
Now, I'm Not in any way suggesting you remove all that Area, just discussing Concepts
i didnt lace the wheel, i took it to my independent shop. now i was smart enough to print out instructions of what you show above... as far as specs for where the wheel should be laced to.
Anyway all the machine shops i know are automotive and my so so buddy didnt feel comfortable milling the bracket.. so he recommended a shop that was on the same road. (small shop) i had that guy mill the caliper and chop me an aluminum
spacer for the other side. nicest guy....when i seen the price i was shocked he didnt include lube for the price...live and learn there, funny you show this pic of the bracket because just out there eyeballing it. seems what i need to do is cut a tiny bit off the lower part of that flange
where if you look at your red L , im talking about the top of the L that part will just hit the frame. i was going to just use the grinder to take some material from the center of that grove because thats where it will hit the tab but...the vibration damper....
i dont want to grind it and i dont have any idea how to remove it. so...maybe its easier just to grind some on the tab itself. i dont need a huge amount but some.
So really, we're saying the same thing and in agreement
Hmm, maybe this was it? ... I wasn't really asking "what exactly is the slot and lower half of the bracket doing for you?" ... that was a Rhetorical question ... I wanted the OP to think about the Concept
But I guess... Thank-you? ... if that's what you thought
.
Good point on the direction of force. easy to overlook the obvious sometimes.
Well it is together. i'll have to get some pics posted.. i still need to pull the back wheel part way off and loctite the arp bolts once i either figure out how to drill out the Harley washers or find something similar. I mistakenly
thought it would be an easy task....once again...elwrongo. also i rear brake kinda went to crap sitting....if i jump on it hard about 3 times it starts grabbing but normal pressure first time it doesnt do much.. i never cracked a line but it
was hanging out of the rotor for a few weeks.
I'm using ARP bolts without washers and haven't had any issues, but I'm also not using the stock pulley or rotor. I wouldn't blink an eye with the stock rotor, but the pulley may be quite a bit softer than my 7075 rear sprocket. I could see it losing clamping force without a bit more surface area.
Easiest way to open up hardened washers is on a lathe or drill press with a 3 jaw table and a carbide drill. Any machine shop could knock them out in a few minutes
Well it is together. i'll have to get some pics posted.. i still need to pull the back wheel part way off and loctite the arp bolts once i either figure out how to drill out the Harley washers or find something similar. I mistakenly
thought it would be an easy task....once again...elwrongo. also i rear brake kinda went to crap sitting....if i jump on it hard about 3 times it starts grabbing but normal pressure first time it doesnt do much.. i never cracked a line but it
was hanging out of the rotor for a few weeks.
" jump on it hard about 3 times it starts grabbing but normal pressure" do you mean to pump up the brakes?
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