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Dyna Glide ModelsSuper Glide, Super Glide Sport, Super Glide Custom, Dyna Glide Convertible, Super Glide T-Sport, Dyna Glide Police, Dyna Switchback, Low Rider, Street Bob, Fat Bob and Wide Glide.
i have a 98 dyna wide glide with a stock carb with a dyna jet kit. I cleaned my carb, replaced the rubber boot, changed the accelerator pump diaphram and put it back and it leaked. i took it to a shop they did a quick look adjusted the float bowl height checked the jets ran gas throught it and it didnt leak. i took it home put it on the bike and it leaked again .i never had a problem before i decided to clean the carb. i was wondering how much better performance would i get upgrading to a s&s carb......i have a kerker exhaust on the bike
So how good is an OEM CV-40 for performance? I took off the EFI crap on my 96 inch 07 Dyna and replaced it with a CV-40 carb & intake manifold . . . take off part from a 1992 Softail. It HAULS ***!!!! Dynajet is crap, so I'm not surprised that you have a problem. Another one to stay away from is CV Performance jet kit. Get a YOST Performance jet kit, IT WORKS! You can spend big bucks for a Super E, but with just an exhaust system on it, you would not feel a big performance gain. My 1977 XLH 1000 is running very strong with it's Super E, but that's another story.
+1 for the CV-40. Back in late 90’s all my buddies were running SS or Mikini carbs and here is me with stock cv carb, rejetted and I was blowing them away.... it’s a great carb once dialed in....
A great book that has good mods is 1001 Performance mods for Harley Davidson...been awhile since I read it but I’m sure it has a section on the CV carb....lots of good tricks you can do to it to make them run great
+1 for the CV carb. Id try to get the CV straightened out before I spent $$ on an S&S. As TexasScooterTrash said, with only an upgrade exhaust you wont see much gain in performance. Find that leak.
They aren't good enough to justify the cost for your particular bike. If you're done messing with it , look up Dale's Killer Carbs. I sent him my cv40 last winter. I had a full blueprint service and my intake opened up for around $200. Money well spent.
Go for the S&S and get rid of the stock piece of crap. S&S it's a great carb the easiest to tune, don't have to worry about diaphrams. It's a solid mount carburetor to the quality intake and the way the venturi is designed it increases the velocity of the air across the throttle plate which will atomize your fuel better for better fuel economy and yes you will feel a little difference in acceleration....
There is a website, Nightrider.com, there's a section for V-Twin power and how to set up a CV carb. I would recommend to remove the dyno-jet kit (replace the slide with the rubber boot) set the needle back to stock, install stock jets then review the information in Nightrider.com. It's possible the fuel petcock is allowing fuel to pour into the carb and the float needle is not shutting off the fuel into the float bowl. I set my carb up with Joe Minton's carb mods, works real well. Carbs can be real simple and trouble free but when they go......
I've had 3 different HD performance motors built over the years with over the counter properly jetted CV carbs. I've used the 40, 44 and 50CV's. The one Mikuni I tried was crap.
I've challenged a couple of shops to install and dyno a carb of their choice and show me the difference, offering to buy if it made significantly more HP. All declined
The biggest problem with using a properly dialed in STOCK CV is the aftermarket hucksters make nothing off you.....
Now I'm on an EFI bike and have been introduced to a whole new level of salesmen
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